David Nayfeld’s Miso Honey Mustard Baked Chicken

A creamy Kewpie mayo-miso dressing does double duty, marinating the chicken and finishing  a simple salad.
A creamy Kewpie mayo-miso dressing does double duty, marinating the chicken and finishing a simple salad.

We all know what it’s like to be face-to-face with a case of the hangries.

When you or someone with you is about to have a meltdown unless some delicious and satisfying food materializes pronto.

As the father of a 5-year-old daughter, David Nayfeld has been there more times than he can count.

Even for this chef-restaurateur of San Francisco’s Che Fico, Che Fico Pizzeria and Via Aurelia, as well as Menlo Park’s Bubbelah and Che Fico Parco, it can be a challenge when his daughter Helena asks pleadingly, “Dad, what’s for dinner?”

So, he’s taken all the tips and shortcuts he’s learned along the way and compiled it into his new cookbook, appropriately named, “Dad, What’s For Dinner?” (Alfred A. Knopf). It was written with Joshua David Stein, a Brooklyn author of cookbooks and children’s books.

The cookbook, of which I received a review copy, is a collection of more than 80 recipes designed to be family-pleasing, with nods to sneaking in a few more vegetables here and there, too.

There are quick recipes such as “Smothered Italian Sausage,” “Creamy Corn and Green Beans,” and “A Better Grilled Cheese” that’s made with sharp cheddar, provolone and the surprise of goat cheese. But there are also recipes that take quite a bit more time, but are meant to be done with your kids helping alongside, such as “Handmade Ricotta Cavatelli,” “Handmade Spinach and Cheese Ravioli,” and “Pizza Rossa.”

If you love the creamy dressing that looks a little like Thousand Island but tastes thoroughly like an umami bomb that gets plopped over iceberg lettuce salads at Japanese restaurants, then “Miso Honey Mustard Baked Chicken” will be your new favorite dish.

That’s because a similar dressing not only serves to marinate the chicken, but also to finish a simple cabbage salad. It’s a brilliant two-fer, a labor and time-saving tip that Nayfeld swears by.

The simple and sensational dressing.
The simple and sensational dressing.

Be sure to use Kewpie mayo because its rich, eggy taste will give this sauce that familiar taste. Mix it with white miso, Dijon mustard, honey, salt, and a little lemon juice.

Use some of that sauce to coat four chicken leg quarters, and allow to marinate up to overnight.

When ready to cook, bake the chicken in the oven. As it cooks, shred some Savoy cabbage, drizzle with some of the sauce, and sprinkle on furikake or toasted sesame seeds.

Serve the salad with the chicken, spooning over any remaining sauce. I think some simple steamed rice alongside is a natural, too.

The chicken is super moist and juicy. The cabbage salad makes for the easiest side. And the dressing, with its punchy, savory, and piquant taste, would enliven anything. In fact, it’s so delicious and cozy tasting that you just might want to make a double batch to use on more salads or vegetables in the days to come.

Shades of your favorite neighborhood Japanese restaurant.
Shades of your favorite neighborhood Japanese restaurant.

Miso Honey Mustard Baked Chicken

(Serves 4)

For the dressing/marinade:

6 1/2 tablespoons Kewpie mayonnaise

2 tablespoons white miso

1 1/2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Juice of 1/2 lemon (1 tablespoon)

For the chicken:

4 chicken leg quarters (3 pounds total)

For the salad:

1/2 small head (8 ounces) Savoy cabbage

Furikake, to finish

Toasted sesame seeds, to finish

Make the dressing/marinade: In a bowl, stir together the mayo, miso, mustard, honey, salt, and lemon juice until well combined. Measure out 1/2 cup of the mixture for the marinade and refrigerate the remainder for the dressing.

Toss the chicken in the marinade and refrigerate, covered, for at least 30 minutes and up to overnight.

When ready to cook, preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a sheet pan with aluminum foil. Place a wire rack over the lined tray.

Arrange the chicken on the rack and roast for 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the salad: Remove the core of the cabbage by cutting a V into the base. Cut into quarters and then, with a sharp knife, very thinly slice the cabbage from top to bottom. The cabbage should look like frizzy angel hair.

Place the cabbage in a small bowl. Drizzle on the desired amount of reserved dressing over it. Finish with furikake or toasted sesame seeds.

Remove the chicken and let rest for 5 minutes. Drizzle the remaining dressing over the baked chicken.

Serve the chicken and the salad together.

Storage: Allow the chicken to cool, then store in an airtight container in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. The salad will keep in an airtight container and refrigerated for up to 3 days.

From “Dad, What’s For Dinner?” by David Nayfeld

More: Dining at Bubbelah

And: Dining at Che Fico Parco

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