Dining In At Petaluma’s Outstanding Della Fattoria

I am no stranger to dashing into Della Fattoria bakery and cafe in downtown Petalua to grab a loaf — or two — of my favorite Rosemary-Meyer Lemon bread. In fact, I am beside myself if I ever find it already sold out, because this crusty, chewy bread strewn with sea salt is absolutely everything.
Yet despite those countless trips, I sheepishly admit that I had never sat down to eat a regular meal in its charming dining room with its tall, beamed ceiling that resembles a big ol’ family barn.
So, last week, my husband and I decided to finally remedy that. In fact, we went to Della Fattoria twice — in three hours.

Heed my reasoning here: Since its doors open at 8 a.m. and I was determined to get my bread, we arrived shortly after that hour. I not only got my hands on two loaves to take home, but a box of pastries to enjoy back at our hotel, just a short stroll away.
Della Fattoria puts out quite the spread in the morning. Not only is there a table plus sideboards groaning with a bevy of different breads, including round pans of focaccia, and bags of English muffins, but right across the way is also a long counter brimming with pastries galore: everything from mini fruit galettes and chocolate croissants to cinnamon twists, apple braids and flourless chocolate cookies.


Back at our hotel room, we blissfully bit into buttery monkey bread, with its crispy little cubes of pastry all over the top; a super crunchy fruit scone; a “blueberry cloud” brioche donut filled with blueberry jam; and the best bear claw I’ve ever had. Admittedly, I grew up with some pretty sorry bear claws that were sugary sweet and lacking much structure. Della Fattoria’s, on the other hand, are crisp and layered, almost croissant-like, with a vivid almond paste flavor.
I was so smitten with that bear claw that I went back to buy two more.

Yes, about three hours later, we returned to Della Fattoria. This time, for an early lunch at the slightly reconfigured space. The pastries had been moved to the bread display area, making way for a series of long communal tables to be set up.
To enjoy brunch or lunch at Della Fattoria means braving lines, and not being shy about sitting shoulder-to-shoulder beside a stranger or two at a shared table.
At 11:15 a.m. on a Friday, the place was already packed, but we managed to snag two seats at such a table.
When I spied a woman kitty-corner to me digging into one of the day’s specials, I inquired how it was. Between bites, she gave me a hearty thumbs up, which was all I needed to order my own serving of the caramelized honeynut squash, seasoned with five spice, layered over herbed goat cheese on slices of toasted semolina ($21).
You knew I had to get something involving bread here, and this absolutely hit the spot. Dotted with crunchy pumpkin seeds and drizzled with Acacia spicy honey. Think a wintery version of avocado toast with soft, warmly spiced squash slices instead married with creamy, tangy goat cheese for a savory sensation with just a touch of sweetness.
My husband went with the corned beef hash ($26), which turned out to be one of the best renditions either of us had had in a long time. Tender, juicy shredded corned beef — and plenty of it — mingled with cubes of potato underneath two poached eggs. A crock of creme fraiche was alongside to dollop here and there. And of course, there was buttered toast to complete it all. The corned beef hash was robust, so savory, and boasted that wonderful piquant characteristic from pickling spices.

Founder Kathleen Weber started baking bread in the early 1990s on the Petaluma ranch she owned with her husband Ed Weber. Just how stellar were these loaves? One of the first to buy them was none other than Thomas Keller. He continued to purchase her bread for eight years until he opened his own Bouchon Bakery.
In 2003, the Weber family opened the downtown Petaluma cafe, and it’s been a community beacon ever since.
Come for the bread — but definitely stay to enjoy a whole lot more, too.