Rapturous Strawberries ‘N’ Cream Cookies

Made with freeze-dried strawberries and velvety white chocolate.
Made with freeze-dried strawberries and velvety white chocolate.

There are cookbooks that offer up small snippets here and there of the author’s life.

And there are culinary memoirs of lengthy prose that are rather miserly when it comes to including but a few recipes.

Will This Make You Happy” (Chronicle Books), of which I received an early review copy, is a welcome hybrid that debuts in March, and is already available for pre-order.

It brims with more than 50 recipes But more so, it warms the heart as it demonstrates how the simple act of baking can be so profoundly transformative.

The book was written by Tanya Bush, a Brooklyn-based writer, editor, and baker, who co-founded the publication Cake Zine. She is the pastry chef at Little Egg in Brooklyn, where her crullers have won a devoted following. No slouch in the writing department, she earned an MFA in creative writing from Hunter College in New York City.

Unemployed and in a deep funk in her early twenties, Bush decides one day to try baking a cake in her tiny Brooklyn apartment kitchen. It does not go well. Yet, rather than throw in the towel, she keeps going, trying her hand at another cake, a batch of madeleines, and so on.

Something magical happens when butter, flour, and eggs undergo a metamorphosis in the heat of an oven. So, too, does Bush in the process, as she starts to find real passion, inspiration, and fulfillment, perhaps for the first time in her life.

The book, along with the recipes, are divided by the seasons. For instance, “Dark Chocolate & Toasted Coconut Birthday Cake” in winter; “Lemon Thyme Creme Brulee” in spring; “Fish Sauce Peanut Brittle” in summer; and “Savory Scones with Country Ham, Gruyere & Scallions” in fall.

Even so, most of the recipes can be made at any time of year. That goes for “Strawberries “N’ Cream Cookies,” which make use of freeze-dried strawberries.

The pink color is from the pulverized freeze-dried strawberries.
The pink color is from the pulverized freeze-dried strawberries.

They get blitzed to a fine powder in the food processor, then mixed with flour, butter, light brown sugar, granulated sugar, baking soda, and vanilla extract to form a dough that takes on a pinkish tone. Bush adds a few drops of red food coloring to heighten that. I only had pink food coloring in my pantry, so I went with that instead, and it worked fine to deepen the color just a tad.

An egg plus two yolks give this dough added moisture and richness. Bush also adds in a pinch of strawberry Nesquik powder. Not wanting to buy a whole container of that just to use 1 teaspoon in this recipe, I opted for adding that same amount of powdered dried milk instead. But I’m guessing you could skip this entirely, if you so choose.

Finally, chopped white chocolate is folded into the dough, before it’s portioned into balls that get chilled.

When ready to bake, place each ball on a baking sheet and press down to flatten slightly. Sprinkle on a little sea salt and transfer to the oven. This recipe employs the now-popular banging method. Halfway through baking, remove the baking pan from the oven and bang it on a heatproof counter so the cookies flatten and crack slightly. Return to the oven to finish baking.

You know the beloved flavor of a creamsicle? The flavor of these cookies is along the lines of that, but with sweet-tangy strawberries taking the place of the orange. The puddles of melty white chocolate offer up creamy, milky sweetness. The touch of salt is the perfect finish that brings out the berry taste even more so.

The cookies are crisp on the exterior and tender within. Bush says that the cookies are best enjoyed the day they are baked. I sampled one the day after and found they had taken on a more chewy consistency, which in my opinion, was not a bad thing at all.

Bush’s book title asks: “Will These Make You Happy”?

These cookies absolutely will.

A welcome sweet treat for Valentine's Day or any time of year.
A welcome sweet treat for Valentine’s Day or any time of year.

Strawberries “N’ Cream Cookies

(Makes 18 cookies)

40 grams (2 1/2 cups) whole freeze-dried strawberries

330 grams (2 3/4 cups) all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon strawberry Nesquik powder or dried milk powder

3/4 teaspoon baking soda

3/4 teaspoon kosher salt

226 grams (1 cup) unsalted butter, at room temperature

250 grams (1 1/4 cups) granulated sugar

100 grams (1/2 cup minus scant 2 teaspoons) light brown sugar

50 grams (1 large) egg, at room temperature

40 grams egg yolks (from 2 large eggs), at room temperature

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 drops red or pink food coloring (optional)

140 grams (1 cup) coarsely chopped white chocolate

Flaky sea salt (such as Maldon), for sprinkling

Place the freeze-dried strawberries in a food processor and pulse until finely ground. Transfer to a medium bowl and whisk in the flour, Nesquik powder or dried milk powder, baking soda, and salt.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a large bowl with a handheld mixer), beat the butter on medium speed until creamy and light, about 1 minute. Add the granulated and brown sugars and beat until pale and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add the egg, egg yolks, and vanilla and beat until combined.

Add the flour mixture and beat on low speed until just combined. Add the food coloring (if using) and beat to combine. Mix in the white chocolate until just incorporated.

Using a large cookie scoop or a 1/4-cup measuring cup, scoop the dough into about 18 (64-gram) balls and transfer to a half-sheet pan. Cover with plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or up to 48 hours. The cookie dough can also be frozen for up to 3 months.

When ready to bake, position racks in the lower and upper thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Line two half-sheet pans with parchment paper.

Place the dough balls on the prepared sheet pans about 2 inches apart. (You may need to bake the cookies in batches if they don’t all fit on two pans.) Flatten the balls with your palm to about 2 1/2 inches in diameter. Sprinkle the cookies with sea salt.

Bake the cookies for 8 minutes. Working with one at a time, remove the sheet pans from the oven and bang them on a sturdy heatproof surface. The domed cookies will collapse and crinkle. Switch racks and rotate the sheet pans front to back when you return the cookies to the oven. Continue Baking the cookies until the centers are set, 3 to 6 minutes more.

Remove the cookies from the oven and immediately use a biscuit cutter or wide bowl to gently nudge the edges into perfect circles. (They are malleable while they are hot.). Let rest for 5 minutes before serving. The cookies are best eaten the same day.

Adapted from “Will This Make You Happy” by Tanya Bush

A Different Variation to Enjoy: Strawberry-n-Cream Bar Cookies (With Dried Rose Petals) by Jessie Sheehan

More Treats with Freeze-Dried Fruit: Raspberry Amaretti Cookies by Nadiya Hussain

And: Raspberry Chocolate Chunk Cookies by Jesse Szewczyk

And: Big Raspberry-Rye Cookies by Heidi Swanson

And: Red Velvety Strawberry Cake by Alex Guarnaschelli

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