A Salute to the Small, But Mighty, Kumquat
In the world of cookbooks, “Citrus, Illustrated” (Chronicle Books) takes up little space.
This compact cookbook, of which I received a review copy, is the size of my outstretched hands and contains all of 35 recipes.
So, in this wisp of a book that spotlights citrus of all sorts, I felt it only appropriate that I hone in on the smallest one: kumquats.
Plus, I think they’re adorable looking, and are so beguiling with their topsy-turvy flesh that’s acidic and rind that’s sweet. Frankly, I just love popping one whole into my mouth to enjoy its burst of flavor.
This fun little book is by George Geary, who was an award-winning pastry chef for a decade with the Walt Disney Company.
For such a little book, it covers a lot of ground when it comes to the background, attributes, and best uses for a range of citrus varieties — from red grapefruit to finger limes to Buddha’s Hand citron. The book is also delightfully illustrated with color and whimsy by Rebecca Hollingsworth.
Designed to be short and practically effortless, the recipes include: “Tangy Lemon Mist Cookies,” “Panko-Crusted Shrimp with Mandarin Sauce,” and “Ginger Lime Caramelized Scallops.”
With kumquats in season through about spring, it’s the perfect time to cook up “Kumquat and Chile Salmon.”
An aside: The official name of this recipe is “Kumquat and Chile Baked Salmon,” but I’ve chosen to take the word, “baked” out because there is no baking involved. Instead, the salmon is cooked in a saute pan on the stovetop, skin-side down until it gets crisp, then flipped over to finish cooking.
When the fish is done, serve it with a slightly syrupy sauce made from simmering sliced kumquats with chopped jalapeno, sugar, lemon juice, lemon zest, and white wine vinegar. The sauce takes all of about 15 minutes to make. You may need to add a pinch more sugar, depending on how sweet your kumquats are.
The sauce adds a light yet punchy sweet-sour accent to the fish with the merest tickle of heat. It complements rather than overshadows the rich taste of the salmon, offering a short and sweet way to add a dressed-up touch.
Kumquat and Chile Salmon
(Serves 4)
4 ounces kumquats, sliced thin
2 jalapenos, seeded and chopped
2 tablespoons granulated sugar or to taste
Zest and juice of 1 medium lemon
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
Four (6-ounce) salmon fillets
1 tablespoon canola oil
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
In a small saucepan on medium-high heat, combine the kumquats, jalapenos, sugar, zest, and vinegar with 1 cup of water. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has thickened, 14 to 16 minutes.
Remove from the heat, stir in the lemon juice, and set aside.
Pat the salmon with a paper towel to blot off any moisture. Heat the oil in a large saute pan on medium heat. Add the salmon, skin-side down, and season with salt and pepper. Cook for 8 minutes, browning and crisping the skin before moving or flipping the fillets.
Turn over the fillet and sear for 1 minute more. Transfer to a serving plate and top with the kumquat sauce.
Adapted from “Citrus, Illustrated” by George Geary
More Kumquat Recipes to Enjoy: Braised Lamb Shanks with Sweet-and-Sour Kumquats
And: Kumquats Simmered in Sake
