A server who traded Southern California for Northern California recently remarked to me that they like their restaurants loud in Los Angeles.

He wasn’t kidding.

Having dined at Bavel in Los Angeles two years ago, and its sister restaurant Bestia in Los Angeles a couple weeks ago, I can concur, as these are among the noisiest restaurants where I’ve ever dined. We’re talking a volume where you need to practically shout at your dining companion across the table to be heard. Dine outside at either establishment though, and you will fare a bit better, as the clamor will still be high, but more manageable.

Even so, I will gladly put up with the din to enjoy the superlative Middle Eastern specialties at Bavel, and the exceptional Italian fare at Bestia.

Both restaurants are owned by Chef Ori Menashe and his Pastry Chef wife Genevieve Gergis. They opened Bestia in 2012, followed by Bavel in 2018, and their very casual Saffy’s in 2022.

Menashe, who like his wife was born in the Los Angeles area, spent his formative years growing up in Israel. He worked at Pizzeria Mozza, All’ Angelo, and Angelini Osteria, all in Los Angeles, while Genevieve taught herself pastry making to satisfy her own big sweet tooth.

Their talents are evident from the first bite.

Start with a Sabotage ($17), that’s like a fruitier Negroni with dry lambrusco, red bitter, rosso vermouth, and the requisite orange peel.

The most-ordered dish has got to be the roasted bone marrow ($30) — for good reason. It’s flat-out sensational. This bone marrow is not served with crostini or a parsley salad. No, it’s presented atop spinach gnocchetti. You scrape the rich, unctuous marrow off the bone, and mix into the tiny pasta for one of the most genius combinations ever. The glistening marrow coats the chewy-tender gnocchetti that boasts wonderful crispy edges here and there. It’s a rich, thoroughly satisfying dish. It is actually an antipasti made for sharing, but it’s so good you might just try to hoard to all to yourself.

When it comes to pizzas, the true test is always the Margherita ($25), because there’s no hiding when there’s just a handful of ingredients on this classic pie. This one rises to the head of the class with its puffy-edged, leopard-spotted crust that’s crisp in the center and possesses a deep fermented taste. The tomato and basil are clear and vivid tasting, and the tomato sauce combines with the melty mozzarella to create that irresistible amalgamation of sweet, tart, and milky.

Pastas are simply perfection, especially the supple, inky squid ink spaghetti ($42) with lobster, the warmth of serrano, and the bright hit of Meyer lemon and shiso. Every strand is al dente with sauce clinging to every inch but not drowning it.

At first glance, you just want to sit back and admire the lovely symmetry of the belly button-shaped green garbanzo tortellini ($31). But dig in to enjoy their creamy centers and tender edges, all finished with meaty lamb bolognese with brown butter and rosemary. I think I may have detected just a hint of honey, which rounded out everything so well.

When it came to dessert, our insightful server nudged me away from my first pick of whole wheat apple cider donuts ($17), which he said were fried to order and quiet good, but that one could find good donuts at many places. Instead, he steered me to his personal favorite, the warm pear ricotta tart ($17) that he relishes so much that he even made it from the “Bestia” cookbook for his family for the holidays.

I’m so glad I followed his lead, as this warm tart is the epitome of autumn with a buttery crust topped with a layer of almond-y frangipane, then slices of sweet pears. The clincher was the surprising black pepper ice cream alongside. Yes, it’s creamy and sweet yet with a backbone of earthy prickly warmth. Think of how a grinding of black pepper enlivens and complements strawberries, and you get the effect.

Now, I’m eager to make this tart at home, too. And of course, to dine again at Bestia when I’m back in Los Angeles.

More: Dining in Los Angeles, Part II: The Astonishing Michelin Three-Starred Somni

And: Dining at Bavel in Los Angeles

Plus: How to Make Bavel’s Rice Cake

And: How to Make Bestia’s Butter-Topped Banana Bread