Chef Greg Baxtrom’s Heirloom Tomato Schnitzel

When it comes to summer tomatoes, I’ve sandwiched them, stuffed them, layered them, grilled them, pureed ’em, salad-ed them, and even devoured them right out of hand plucked from the vines in my own backyard.
But until now, I’d never schnitzel-ed them.
And boy, was I missing out.
Yes, the German method of breading and frying pork, veal or beef until crisp and golden can be applied to thick slices of beefsteak heirloom tomatoes to fun and delicious effect.
“Heirloom Tomato Schnitzel” is a recipe from the new cookbook, “Nothing Matters…but Delicious: A Radically Honest Cookbook” (Ten Speed Press).

It was written by Greg Baxtrom, chef-owner of Five Acres in New York with assist from food and wine writer and editor, Joshua David Stein.
The former chef-owner of the acclaimed Olmstead in Brooklyn, Baxtrom has worked in such standout establishments as Michelin three-starred Per Se in New York City; and Michelin two-starred restaurants, Alinea in Chicago and Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York.
As such, he’s used every culinary tool and contraption around, and patiently applied intricate technique after intricate technique on dishes. But in his cookbook, he eschews all of that, telling readers that you don’t need all of that fancy stuff at home to turn out delicious, boldly flavored dishes that any restaurant would be proud to serve.

His 75 recipes exemplify that. There’s also a sense of whimsy running through the book, reminding you that cooking needn’t be so serious and stressful.
There’s “Cherry Tomato Salad with Sunkist Orange Juice,” which, yes, gives you permission to use the supermarket juice rather than fresh-squeezed for just the right balance. There’s “Duck Fat and Togarashi Popcorn,” a tribute to his love of popcorn, the first thing his family let him cook by himself at age 7. There’s “Garlicky-Braised Chicken with Tostitos Salsa” (or any salsa you have lying in the back of the fridge). There’s “A Better Buttered Burger” that incorporates frozen, grated butter into ground brisket for the ultimate juicy patty. And there’s the hilarious recipe for “Entenmann’s Chocolate Cake,” which involves buying the cake from your local bodega, removing it from the container, placing it on a plate, then devouring it on the couch at 1 a.m. after getting off of work.

For this schnitzel, there’s no pounding of meat involved. Instead, you’ll need two large heirloom tomatoes or beefsteak tomatoes. Try to choose ones that are uniform in shape for neater slices, too.
Cut the top and bottom off each tomato. Slice each tomato in half horizontally to create a total of four thick disks. Salt and pepper them.
Dip each slice in flour, then in a batter of whisked eggs and flour, before adding to a hot saute pan with olive oil. Cook on each side until deeply golden before removing to a plate.
In the same pan, saute a load of diced shallots in butter, then drizzle over the tomatoes. Shower with chives before serving. I thought the tomatoes needed one final flourish of sea salt over the top, so I added that to the recipe below.

It’s as if jammy summer tomatoes had met pancakes and produced this baby. The batter creates a layer of crispiness, but one more substantial, thicker, and more tender in some parts that if you had panko-breaded them or tempura-fried them.
The tomato slices maintain their shape without getting too soft or mushy yet get juicier and more concentrated in flavor. The buttery shallots provide a simple yet lavish tasting sauce.
Enjoy as is. Or with grilled bread on the side. Or even with a fried egg on top.
Don’t hesitate; it’s time to get schnitzel-ed.

Heirloom Tomato Schnitzel
(Serves 2)
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
3 large eggs, whisked
2 large heirloom tomatoes or large beefsteaks (1 1/2 pounds total)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup diced shallots (2 large shallots)
2 tablespoons thinly sliced fresh chives
Sea salt, for finishing (optional)
Place 1/2 cup of the flour in a large bowl. Slowly whisk the eggs into the flour until mostly smooth.
Cut off the top and bottom of each tomato to create 2 flat sides. Then cut both tomatoes in half horizontally, creating 4 hockey pucks roughly 3/4 inch thick. Season with salt and pepper on both sides. Dredge each puck in the remaining 1/4 cup of flour, then dip it in the egg batter, scraping most of the batter off using the side of the bowl.
In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat until shimmering. Add the tomatoes and saute, flipping once, until both sides are golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Transfer the tomatoes to serving plates and drain off the oil from the pan.
Add the butter and shallots to the same pan and saute until the butter has melted and the shallots have softened, about 2 minutes. Spoon over the tomatoes. Top with chives. Finish with a sprinkle of sea salt, if you like.
Adapted from “Nothing Matters…but Delicious” by Greg Baxtrom

More Delicious Ways to Enjoy Tomatoes: My Mom’s Tomato Beef Chow Mein

And: Cold Udon with Fresh Tomatoes

And: Grated Fresh Tomato Spaghetti with Anchovies

And: Pan-Roasted Tomatoes Stuffed with Pork by Andrea Nguyen

And: Corn, Tomato, and Scallion Salad


And: Grape Tomato “Quick Kimchi” by Eric Kim

And: Julia Child’s Stuffed Tomatoes Provencal

And: Cherry Tomato & Tofu Salad by David Chang
