Author Archives: foodgal

A Muffin That’s Like A Donut

Cinnamon-buttermilk muffins

When I worked on the San Jose Mercury News Food & Wine section, you always knew it was going to be a good day if any Beth Hensberger baked goods were being photographed in the studio for an upcoming story.

That’s because once the photos were done, we’d all dive in, eagerly tearing off hunks of pie, cobbler, cookies or breads to nibble. They never ceased to make us smile and swoon. That’s because Beth’s baked goods are always filled with abundant love and expertise.

A former Bay Area caterer and a veteran cookbook author, Hensperger is a baking authority and one of the nicest people you’ll ever meet. We still keep in touch by email. And whenever I make one of her recipes, I always think of my dear friend whose sweet tooth is matched only by my own.

Her cinnamon-buttermilk muffins are as comforting as you can get. They are dipped in melted butter, then in cinnamon-sugar. I used organic cane sugar, giving the topping an even darker contrast to the golden muffins. But regular granulated sugar also works fine.

The batter, Hensperger says, is similar to ones for donuts, giving these muffins a cake-like texture. Muffins that are like donuts, but without the frying? Does it get any better than that?

Cinnamon-buttermilk muffins

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Better Than The Gold Standard In Cookies

Chocolate gingersnaps -- Yum! (Photo courtesy of Platine)

Munch, munch, munch

Oh, sorry, I had my mouth full. Chomp, chomp…I can’t stop eating these cookies that arrived in the mail; that’s how good they are.

Platine, the French word for “platinum,” is tres magnifique. These handmade, mail-order cookies from Southern California are the creation of Jamie Cantor, who graduated from the Culinary Institute of America campuses in Hyde Park, NY and St. Helena, CA. She then went on to work for several years at the French Laundry in Yountville, before moving to Los Angeles to start her own bakery.

Decisions, decisions. It's hard to choose only one. (Photo courtesy of Platine)

You can taste the premium ingredients from the first bite. Every cookie is baked to order, so when they arrive on your doorsteps, they still taste very fresh. Choose from rich brownies to chewy cookies such as oatmeal raisin, snickerdoodle, and my fave — chocolate gingersnap. In fact, pardon me, while I sneak another one…crunch, crunch

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Sweet Pick-Me-Up

Sugary booty

If you’re shopping till you’re dropping at San Francisco’s Union Square area, revive yourself by ducking into Fiona’s Sweetshoppe on Sutter Street.

The gumball-size shop is a candyholic’s dream. Owner Fiona Frie is a medical doctor who moved from the United Kingdom to San Francisco, and decided to take a break from medicine to open this darling candy store that’s stocked with candy from England, Scotland, and around the world. I don’t know about you, but that definitely sounds like a better drug of choice.

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Slow Food Nation’s Cooking Demos Coming to YouTube

An assistant helps New York chef David Chang prepare for his cooking demo.

If you missed this weekend’s Slow Food Nation event in San Francisco, you’ll still be able to enjoy a part of it on the Web in the near future.

Cooking demos in the “Green Kitchen” were filmed and will be posted on YouTube at a future date. I got a chance to sit in on two of the demos, the first featured Alice Waters of Berkeley’s Chez Panisse making vinaigrette with her 25-year-old daughter, Fanny Singer, who was on break from grad school. The second featured maverick New York chef David Chang, who created his take on caprese salad, in which he substituted tofu for mozzarella, and shiso for basil.

Alice Waters has long been associated with salad, having almost single-handedly popularized mesclun mix in the United States. Fanny said her mother’s salad was probably the first food she ate in puree form when she was a baby.

“Salad is my favorite thing to cook,” Fanny said. “When I say that, my friends all say that there’s not much cooking to that. But there is a lot involved in making a good salad.” It starts with carefully washed leaves that have been dried completely so that the dressing will adhere to it better and the greens will be crisper. Then, there’s the vinaigrette, which Waters says, should not shock you with its tartness, but give you a pleasant brightness.

Such care is taken with her salads that Waters said it used to take one person eight hours to wash and dry all the salad leaves when Chez Panisse first opened.

Decades ago, when Playboy magazine named Chez Panisse the seventh best restaurant in the country, Waters flew to New York for the big gala event. She decided to make salad as her dish. She picked all the lettuces from the garden at the last possible moment, carrying them on the plane still covered in dirt (imagine getting that through security today).

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Mozzarella Mania

Hand-pulled mozzarella. Made fresh three times a day.

Got your attention? Get a taste of that at Poggio in Sausalito, Sept. 9-13. Executive Chef Peter McNee serves freshly made burrata year-round, but he only makes hand-pulled mozzarella during the peak of summer. With heirloom tomatoes at their best, he believes it’s the greatest time to pair them with his dreamy-creamy mozzarella.

He explains: “Fresh mozzarella has a sweeter flavor and a more delicate texture than what you can find in any store,” and by making the mozzarella three times a day, “we are able to keep the cheese at room temperature so that it is always soft, supple, and sweet.”

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