Category Archives: Chefs

A Visit to Chef Bruno Chemel’s Le Parc Bistrobar in Downtown San Francisco

Posted on by Leave a comment
Tarte tatin a l'oignon at Le Parc Bistrobar.
Tarte tatin a l’oignon at Le Parc Bistrobar.

When Chef Bruno Chemel shuttered his Bistronomie by Baume in Palo Alto in August 2023 after less than a year, he thought about retiring.

Who could blame him? After all, before transforming that California Avenue space into a more casual establishment, he had spent the previous 13 years overseeing it in its original incarnation as the cutting-edge, fine-dining Baume restaurant known for its eye-popping molecular gastronomy.

It garnered him one Michelin star for three years before it was elevated to two stars, a distinction it held for a long nine years even in its later stage when it was only Chemel and his wife Christie running the entire restaurant alone.

If anyone deserved a rest after all of that, surely he did.

Chef Bruno Chemel.
Chef Bruno Chemel.

Of course, that lasted all of a heartbeat. Only a month later, he was scouring locations for a new restaurant.

Last summer, he opened Le Parc Bistrobar in the Galleria Park Hotel with his wife by his side, designing the cocktails and running the dining room. This time, though, they do have the help of other employees.

Read more

Tom Colicchio’s “Possibly the Best Grilled Cheese You’ll Ever Have”

Posted on by Leave a comment
'Nduja and plenty of mozzarella make this grilled cheese extra messy and delicious.
‘Nduja and plenty of mozzarella make this grilled cheese extra messy and delicious.

Tom Colicchio may be a household name now, thanks to 21 seasons as head judge and executive producer of the Emmy-winning, Bravo hit show “Top Chef.”

But as a kid, he felt a little lost and a lot unsure while growing up in northern New Jersey, especially with a father who was often moody, silent, and a gambling addict.

One day, when he was 13, his mom dragged him to her weekly hair appointment. As he waited, he happened to pick up a magazine, Cuisine. Leafing through it, he grew mesmerized by a recipe for roasted, stuffed eggplant. So much so, that he asked permission to take the magazine home, where he made the dish, the first meal he had ever cooked.

His dad took a taste and remarked, “Not bad, Tom” — words that Colicchio would cherish.

Three years later, when Colicchio was 16 with nary a thought to his future, his father suggested he become a chef, saying, “I think you’d be good at it.” Coming from his usually stoic dad, it carried immeasurable weight and would propel him into his exceedingly successful career.

So Colicchio recounts in his new book, “Why I Cook” (Artisan, 2024), of which I received a review copy.

Read more

Irresistible Rory’s Bakehouse Giant Chocolate Chip Cookies

Posted on by One comment
Rory's Bakehouse frozen cookie dough balls bake up into huge 4 1/2-inch diameter chocolate chip cookies.
Rory’s Bakehouse frozen cookie dough balls bake up into huge 4 1/2-inch-diameter chocolate chip cookies.

Warning: Do not keep these in your freezer unless you want temptation dangerously beckoning every waking moment.

Rory’s Bakehouse Giant Chocolate Chip frozen cookie dough balls will do serious damage to your willpower and waistline — and leave an enormous smile on your face in the process.

Rory Kandel of Napa is the creator of these ginormous chocolate chip cookies that have cultivated a loyal following. So much so that she started making the frozen dough available through nationwide shipping. They can also be found in the freezer case at Woodlands Market in San Francisco, Kentfield and Tiburon; Glen Ellen Village Market in Glen Ellen; and Sunshine Foods in St. Helena. They can also be found freshly baked at Loveski Deli in Napa and Marin and Biscuit’s BBQ in Napa.

The cookie dough balls come either 6 or 12 to a bag.
The cookie dough balls come either 6 or 12 to a bag.

Last month, she also debuted a walk-up retail window in Napa at 2766 Old Sonoma Road, open Thursdays and Fridays, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., and Saturdays, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. There, you’ll find the frozen cookie dough, along with baked cookies. There are also weekly specials of buttermilk biscuits, black truffle gougeres, and coconut passion fruit thumbprint cookies.

Read more

“To Lahaina, With Love”

Posted on by 3 comments
A simple and delicious recipe from Chef Lee Anne Wong, who lost her restaurant in the devastating Lahaina fires.
A simple and delicious recipe from Chef Lee Anne Wong, who lost her restaurant in the devastating Lahaina fires.

In times of natural disasters or catastrophic world events, not only do firefighters and paramedics immediately mobilize to help, but so do chefs, cooks, and others in the hospitality industry.

After all, they know better than anyone the power of food to comfort, nourish, and heal.

As I watched the news accounts of the gut-wrenching destruction wrought by the Southern California wildfires, it reminded me eerily of the 2023 firestorm that obliterated the town of Lahaina on the island of Maui.

In each case, restaurateurs and their employees — including some whose establishment or homes had been ravaged by flames — turned up in droves to cook meals for anyone in need, despite their own dire circumstances.

Wildfires may be growing more severe nowadays due to climate change. But it’s heartening to witness the indefatigable resilience, resourcefulness, and compassion of a community rising to meet it.

“To Lahaina, With Love” exemplifies that. Proceeds from this cookbook, which debuted last month, benefit Fresh Help Maui, a non-profit that provides meals and locally-caught fresh fish to those impacted by the Maui fires.

Read more

The Simple Pleasures of Pork Simmered with Ginger

Posted on by Leave a comment
A fast and homey tasting pork dish full of ginger flavor.
A fast and homey tasting pork dish full of ginger flavor.

Spending two weeks in Japan last year gave me an even greater appreciation for the food there. Not just for the regal kaiseki experiences or the sublime omakase meals, but for the uncomplicated everyday food that’s so inexpensive and readily available.

Things like a creamy egg salad sandwich on squishy milk bread from Lawson’s convenience store, the freshly made sesame seed-studded onigiri from the 7-Eleven with rice that was never too cold or too hard, and the shattering crunch of a soy-brushed rice cracker that somehow tasted better than any others I’d ever had.

“A Day In Tokyo” (Smith Street Books, 2024), of which I received a review copy, let me relive those marvelous food memories through its pages.

Read more
« Older Entries Recent Entries »