Category Archives: Chefs

A Tea Time Twist

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Take tea time to another level with a blackberry tart flavored with Darjeeling.
Take tea time to another level with a blackberry tart flavored with Darjeeling.

Make tea time even more delicious by adding a treat alongside made with tea.

I’m not talking about matcha, either.

But Darjeeling.

It may not have the showy color of that now-ubiquitous Japanese powdered green tea. But this black tea from India has an appeal all its own, possessing haunting smoky, apricot, and peach notes, as well as gentle astringency.

It’s also simply fabulous in this “Blackberry-Darjeeling Frangipane Tart,” where the dried leaves get pulverized into the sweet hazelnut cream that’s spread on a crisp tart shell, then studded with fresh blackberries.

This lovely recipe is from “More Than Sweet” (Hardie Grant), of which I received a review copy.

It was written by Marie Frank, a Danish pastry chef in Copenhagen. Interestingly enough, Frank was not a fan of desserts as a child and teen, thinking them too boring or too sweet compared to the rest of the meal. It wasn’t until she was on maternity leave after giving birth to her son that the switch flipped. She happened to pick up a French baking book she had bought years before but never looked at, and grew mesmerized.

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Marvelous Microwave Mushrooms

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You won't believe how easy and delicious these microwaved shiitakes are.
You won’t believe how easy and delicious these microwaved shiitakes are.

This is the mushroom hack that you didn’t know you needed.

It’s a quick-as-a-wink recipe that’s perfect when you’re time-pressed.

Or in need an ideal base for a quick vegetarian meal. Or a no-brainer side dish to any Asian-influenced main.

“Steamed Shiitakes with Ginger-Garlic-Scallion Sauce” is fast, delicious, and deceptive. That’s because the “steaming” happens in about 5 minutes in your microwave.

It results in the silkiest, slipperiest, most supple mushrooms that are also plenty saucy.

This genius recipe is from “Hello, Home Cooking” (Clarkson Potter), of which I received a review copy.

The cookbook is by Ham El-Waylly, a New York City recipe developer and video creator who is chef-partner of the New Orleans-style seafood bar, Strange Delight in Brooklyn.

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Summertime Peach Almond Scones

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Juicy diced peaches and sweet pieces of almond paste make these scones a real summer treat.
Juicy diced peaches and sweet pieces of almond paste make these scones a real summer treat.

New York City’s Danielle Sepsy has been anointed the Scone Queen. So, when she comes out with a cookbook full of recipes for all manner of scones, muffins, cookies, cakes, and breads, how can one possibly not hone in on a scone one to make first, right?

I think it would be sacrilege to do otherwise.

With summer at its peak, “Peach Almond Scones” was the one that cried out to me first and foremost with its jumble of fresh diced peaches and sweet pieces of almond paste baked into the dough.

Sepsy and scones have been synonymous since she was 13 years old when she started a business out of her family’s house selling scones to neighbors, friends, and local cafes. In 2022, she competed on HBO Max’s “The Big Brunch” cooking competition, where the judges crowned her the Scone Queen.

These days, she runs her own online bakery, The Hungry Gnome, through which she sells all manner of baked goods, including scones, of course.

Her debut cookbook, “The Scone Queen Bakes” (Alfred A. Knopf), of which I received a review copy, is filled with 100 recipes for treats such as “Lavender Lemon Scones,” “Red Bean Scones with A Sesame Crust,” “Chocolate Chip Pancake Muffins,” “Biscoff Apple Cheesecake Bars,” and “Snowball Ice Box Cake.”

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Chef Greg Baxtrom’s Heirloom Tomato Schnitzel

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Meet tomato schnitzel -- a fun and delicious treatment to give summer tomatoes.
Meet tomato schnitzel — a fun and delicious treatment to give summer tomatoes.

When it comes to summer tomatoes, I’ve sandwiched them, stuffed them, layered them, grilled them, pureed ’em, salad-ed them, and even devoured them right out of hand plucked from the vines in my own backyard.

But until now, I’d never schnitzel-ed them.

And boy, was I missing out.

Yes, the German method of breading and frying pork, veal or beef until crisp and golden can be applied to thick slices of beefsteak heirloom tomatoes to fun and delicious effect.

“Heirloom Tomato Schnitzel” is a recipe from the new cookbook, “Nothing Matters…but Delicious: A Radically Honest Cookbook” (Ten Speed Press).

It was written by Greg Baxtrom, chef-owner of Five Acres in New York with assist from food and wine writer and editor, Joshua David Stein.

The former chef-owner of the acclaimed Olmstead in Brooklyn, Baxtrom has worked in such standout establishments as Michelin three-starred Per Se in New York City; and Michelin two-starred restaurants, Alinea in Chicago and Blue Hill at Stone Barns in New York.

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RT Bistro Completes A Trifecta

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Porcini doughnuts with caviar at RT Bistro.
Porcini doughnuts with caviar at RT Bistro.

When it comes to their brand of cooking, husband and wife chefs Evan and Sarah Rich have a knack for throwing you for a loop — in the best of ways.

Think you’re getting potato chips at their flagship, 14-year-old Rich Table in San Francisco? You are — but ones uncannily threaded with whole sardines.

Expecting a whole roasted cauliflower at their two RT Rotisserie locations in San Francisco? You might want to don sunglasses when it arrives blanketed in technicolor fuchsia from a dazzling red beet tahini sauce.

Hankering for shrimp Louie at their newest restaurant, RT Bistro, which just opened in January? The chilled shrimp in a creamy sauce will arrive not on a mound of lettuce, but on disks of fried eggplant that are crisp on the outside and creamy within.

The Riches call their food “New American.” In truth, it’s what Sarah and Evan most like to eat — familiar sounding dishes with deepened flavors that get playfully and imaginatively tweaked without losing any focus.

It’s proved to be a winning formula for them and General Manager-Partner Jonny Gilbert.

RT Bistro's entrance is around the corner from Rich Table's.
RT Bistro’s entrance is around the corner from Rich Table’s.

Last week, I finally had a chance to check out RT Bistro, which is actually located in the same building that houses Rich Table, with its entrance just around the corner from it.

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