Category Archives: Chefs

The Only Sustainable Sushi Bar in North America

At Tataki Sushi & Sake Bar, it\s not business as usual.

That is just what Tataki Sushi & Sake Bar in San Francisco is believed to be.

The tiny, seven-month-old restaurant serves only seafood that isn’t overfished, farmed without proper management, or contains high levels of mercury and other contaminants.

Find out more about why business partners, Chef Kin Lui, Chef Raymond Ho, and Casson Trenor (a sustainable fisheries expert) decided to open such a restaurant by reading my story today in the San Francisco Chronicle Food section.

Tataki, the site of a former Subway sandwich shop, grabs your attention right when you walk in. A Monterey Bay Aquarium “Seafood Watch” pocket guide, which lists best and worst sustainable seafood species, is front and center on every table. A copy is also tucked into every take-out menu.

Co-chefs Raymond Ho (left) and Kin Lui (right).

Oct. 22, Tataki will be the site of the official launch of three new, ground-breaking sustainable sushi guides created in partnership with the aquarium, Blue Ocean Institute, and Environmental Defense Fund. Each will include information on as many as 60 different seafood species commonly found on sushi menus.

Sustainable artic char, similar to farmed salmon in taste and texture, but without environmental and health concerns.

Want to do the right thing? Then, you’ll stop eating unagi, bluefin toro, hamachi, octopus (tako), monkfish liver (ankimo), farmed salmon (sake), imported King crab (kani), imported albacore tuna (shiro maguro), and sea urchin (uni) from Maine — all of which are unsustainable, according to the aquarium’s new guide.

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A Doggie Soiree, Wine Dinner, New Bakery, and A Whole Lot More

A woof-ing good time. (Photo courtesy of the Hyatt Regency Monterey)

Guests of the two- and four-legged variety are invited to have a grand ol’ time at the second annual “Paws For A Cause” party, 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Oct. 9 at the Hyatt Regency Monterey Resort & Spa on Del Monte Golf Course.

The event for owners and their dogs will feature gourmet dog treats by Carmel Dog Parties for the canines, and appetizers from the hotel’s TusCA Ristorante for the humans. Guests also will enjoy environmentally-inspired cocktails such as Simply Pear-fect Martini and Wild Apple Martini, garnished with garden herbs and presented with tips on helping the environment, and seed packets to take home.

The SPCA for Monterey County will be on hand with adoptable dogs, too.

A $15 donation is suggested for the event, with 100 percent of proceeds going to the SPCA.

One of my favorite Cabernet Sauvignon producers will be featured at the Oct. 2 wine dinner at Seasons restaurant in the Four Seasons Hotel in San Francisco. The five-course tasting menu will be paired with Napa Valley’s Shafer Vineyards’ varietals. Charming and knowledgeable Doug Shafer, president of the winery, will lead guests through the tastings.

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A Trip Down Memory Lane at the New California Academy of Sciences

Soft pork taco is served at the new California Academy of Sciences -- a vast improvement on what once was offered.

As a kid growing up in San Francisco, I happily remember elementary school field trips and teen-age outings to the magical Academy of Sciences in Golden Gate Park.

I recall sitting back in pitch darkness and watching the stars overhead in the Morrison Planetarium, thinking this was the absolute coolest place on Earth. I remember staring at the antelope and cheetah on display in the natural history museum. I remember how I couldn’t take my eyes off the ancient manatee in the Steinhart Aquarium, even if he hardly moved much.

And I remember listlessly eating burgers and fries in the museum cafe that had been left under heat-lamps for god knows how long.

Well, Dorothy, we’re not in that Academy of Sciences any more. Welcome to the revamped, utterly dazzling new California Academy of Sciences that will finally open its doors on Saturday. I was lucky enough to get a sneak preview on Monday night.

The original 1953 museum was the first scientific institution in the West. After being damaged in the 1989 Loma Prieta quake, it was closed. After a $488 million renovation and expansion, the new institution is now the only one in the world to house an aquarium, planetarium, natural history museum, and world-class research and education program under one roof.

Light fills the building designed by a Pulitzer-Prize winning architect.

It was redesigned by Pulitzer-Prize winner Renzo Piano, who also created the Pompidou Center in Paris. Like that fanciful French center, the academy boasts an extensive use of glass, giving it a modern, airy, and organic feel. Designed to be the greenest museum in the world, it is expected to earn a “platinum” rating (the highest possible) by the U.S. Green Building Council.

The living roof.

There is a “living roof” planted with native species, which is expected to reduce storm water runoff by up to 3.6 million gallons of water annually. A glass canopy with 60,000 photo voltaic cells will capture sunlight and is expected to produce up to 10 percent of the building’s needs. Additionally, building walls are insulated with old denim jeans.

The food also has gotten a much needed update, and how. San Francisco culinary legends, Charles Phan (chef-owner of the Slanted Door) and Loretta Keller (chef-owner of Coco500) have partnered to create the casual food-court-like Academy Cafe, and the full-service Moss Room. All the food served will be local, seasonal, and sustainable.

Charles Phan's newest venture, the Academy Cafe.

The cafe is arranged into stations such as “Slow Cooked,” “Steamed,” and “Sizzle.” Think soft tacos filled with juicy, slow-cooked pork; Vietnamese spring rolls; steamed chicken buns; tamales; fish & chips; green papaya salad; and vegetarian paninis.

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A Shout-Out to Two Asian Restaurants on the Peninsula

A manly meal of crispy pata at Bistro Luneta

If you’ve never experienced the bold, pungent flavors of Filipino food, Bistro Luneta in San Mateo is a great place to get an introduction to this under-appreciated cuisine.

With Spanish, Chinese, and Malaysian influences, the cuisine is a harmony of salty, tangy, sweet, and savory. Husband-and-wife proprietors Jon and Janet Guanzon, along with Executive Chef Emmanuel Santos have given a modern interpretation to the cuisine.

A special of Korean ribs with citrus at Bistro Luneta

Standouts on the menu include Tokwa’t Baboy, an appetizer of grilled pork slivers crowned with crusted, fried tofu that’s lightly crisp on the outside and amazingly custardy on the inside. Even tofu haters won’t be able to stop eating this dish.

Eskalops Adobo bring perfectly seared scallops together with meaty, caramelized portobello, all in a deeply flavored adobo sauce. The Crispy Pata, a staple on Filipino menus, gets the star treatment here. A pork leg is cooked till the meat is fork-tender, then deep-fried until the skin is a crackling shell that you’ll need a sharp knife to break through.

The Guanzons host winery dinners at the restaurant regularly. In the near future, they also hope to invite other Filipino-American chefs from around the Bay Area to come cook on special guest-chef nights.

In Palo Alto, Proprietor-chef John Le Hung of Three Seasons restaurant in downtown, has revamped his nearby former iTapas & Wine Bar, 445 Emerson St.; (650) 325-4400. It has been renamed Bistro D’Asie with a new concept. After one too many confused customers walked through the doors of iTapas expecting Spanish tapas, rather than Asian/International ones, he decided to craft a different menu.

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Get Ready For A Meal of A Lifetime

Grant Achatz's elegant new cookbook

Think of it as like the Rolling Stones in concert with U2. Or De Niro starring with Pacino. In their prime, of course.

In this culinary version, it’s Grant Achatz, chef of Chicago’s molecular gastronomy mecca, Alinea, teaming with his mentor Thomas Keller of the incomparable French Laundry in Yountville and Per Se in New York, for three very special dinners.

Keller, the only American-born chef to possess seven Michelin stars, and Achatz, who survived a harrowing bout with cancer to win the 2008 “Chef of the Year” award by the James Beard Foundation, will cook together Nov. 11 at Per Se, Dec. 2 at Alinea, and Dec. 9 at the French Laundry.

We’re talking 20 — yes, 20 — courses paired with wines. Each chef will prepare 10 alternating courses that reflect their best creations that honor their 12-year friendship, and to celebrate the publication of each of their new cookbooks.

Thomas Keller's new tome on sous vide cooking

Early on in his career, Achatz sent Keller his resume every day for nearly a month until Keller hired him to work at the French Laundry. Achatz quickly distinguished himself, and rose to sous chef, before leaving for Evanston, IL in 2001 to open Trio. Four years later, he opened the highly innovative Alinea. This will mark the first time Achatz will be cooking with Keller since leaving the French Laundry.

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