Category Archives: Chefs

Savoring the Fifth Taste

You know sweet, salty, bitter, and sour. But do you know umami, the fifth taste?

Attend the “Umami Symposium: New Frontiers of Taste,” 11:30 a.m. July 21 at the Hyatt Regency in San Francisco, and you’ll know it even better. The event, hosted by the Umami Information Center, commemorates the 100th anniversary of the discovery of umami in Tokyo, Japan.

Umami is the savory flavor we can’t get enough of in so many foods. Think Parmesan cheese, mushrooms, cured ham, soy sauce, chicken soup, meat, and fish.

The event leads off with a panel discussion featuring smell and taste scientists; food writer and food scientist Harold McGee; Kunio Tokuoka, executive chef of Kyoto Kitcho in Japan; and Master of Wine Tim Hanni. Following that, a multi-course lunch will be served, with each dish demonstrating the irresistible nature of umami. Tokuoka will prepare the dishes, along with chefs Hiro Sone of Ame in San Francisco and Terra in St. Helena; and Thomas Keller of the French Laundry in Yountville.

Tickets are $100. But hurry — registration ends July 7.

If you miss that event, you can still enjoy a feast of umami at Ame, which will be offering a special tasting menu focusing on the fifth flavor,  July 14 to Aug. 3. The five-course dinner is $85, plus an additional $65 for wine pairings. Dishes include broiled sake-marinated black cod in shiso broth, grilled Berkshire pork on Carolina gold rice with tomato “risotto,” and caramel ice cream with shoyu powder.

The Guys From Incanto Present Boccalone Salumeria

Boccalone orange and wild fennel salame (foreground); and brown sugar and fennel salame (background).

Mmmm, pork, pork, and more pork.

You’ll find all that and more at the new Boccalone Salumeria in the San Francisco Ferry Building Marketplace.

It’s the artisan charcuterie mecca founded by the two guys from Incanto restaurant in San Francisco, Proprieter Mark Pastore, and Executive Chef Chris Cosentino.

With more than 20 varieties of handmade cured meats, you’ll be hard pressed to pick just one. Choose from  pancetta, lonza (cured pork loin), hard-to-find lardo (cured pork fat), and out-of-this-world orange & wild fennel salame, among others. Salumi is sliced to order. And hungry customers can order up paninis and salumi platters.

If the Ferry Building is out of your way, you also can order products online to satisfy your cravings.

Culinary Luminaries Descend Upon Los Altos Hills July 19

Chef Christopher KostowÂ

We’re talking a stellar line-up of some of the Bay Area’s best chefs: Christopher Kostow of the Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Helena, Cal Stamenov of Marinus at Bernardus Lodge in Carmel Valley, Alessandro Cartumini of Quattro in the Four Seasons Hotel Silicon Valley in East Palo Alto, Daniel Patino of Michael Mina’s Arcadia in San Jose, Xavier Salomon of the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay, and Robert Holt of Cetrella in Chef Daniel Patino. Photo by Chris Schmauch.Half Moon Bay.

That whet your whistle?

Then, you’ll want to attend the 26th annual Vintage Affaire gala in Los Altos Hills on July 19. The event is held at a different private estate each year that can accommodate 500 guests.

Enjoy a silent auction, then a sit-down dinner, followed by a live auction. McCall Catering will handle the duties for the dinner, and the six top chefs will be doling out specialty appetizers during the silent auction. Look for Stamenov to serve up duck foie blond salad with pickled Bing cherries; and PaChef Cal Stamenovtino to offer Mina’s signature osetra caviar parfait.

Tickets are $250. Upon purchase, guests will receive the address of the host estate in Los Altos Hills. The event is a benefit for Vista Center for the blind and visually impaired. Over the past 25 years, Vintage Affaire has raised more than $5.5 million for the center.

Tickets are available by calling (650) 858-0202 or by clicking here.

Take Five With South Bay Chef Justin Perez, A True Survivor

Chef Justin Perez

The restaurant industry can be a nail-biting, roller-coaster ride. But few chefs have weathered as many jolting ups and downs as Justin Perez.

In 2003, his small Buca restaurant in Campbell faced a David-and-Goliath fight when restaurant chain Buca di Beppo, which has more than 30 locations nationwide, threatened a lawsuit because it believed the name of Perez’s restaurant was too similar and could confuse customers. Rather than face an expensive legal battle, Perez renamed his popular establishment, Restaurant O.

Two years later, a bizarre incident occurred while Perez was relaxing with his family at their San Jose home. A hysterical woman came running up to them, screaming that her husband was going to kill her. Perez and his family took her into their home and called police for help.

His good deed, though, soon turned into a horrific nightmare. His house was subsequently fire-bombed, and bricks hurled through his front windows. The husband’s brother was later convicted of those crimes, but not before Perez, his wife, and their young children were severely traumatized.

In 2006, with his life back together, Perez spent $30,000 to renovate Restaurant O. He did all the work, himself, with the help of a few friends, only to discover a year later that his landlord was selling the property to make way for a senior retirement project there instead.

As word spread about the plans, diners stopped going to the restaurant, believing it was already closed. With so little business, Perez was forced to shutter it.

He was crushed. Yet unbelievably, the worst was yet to come.

I caught up with the 37-year-old chef, who somehow has remained indefatigable through it all.

Q: Your life has been a soap opera, hasn’t it?

A: We used to actually say, ‘As the O turns,’ when we had bad days at Restaurant O.

Q: And after Restaurant O closed, that wasn’t the end of your struggles?

A: No. Around that time, I found out my former director of operations had embezzled about $750,000 from the restaurant. I’d known him for 20 years. He was my best friend. It was pretty devastating.

Q: How did you finally find out?

A: He got really sick last year, and had to stop working. That’s when we found out. He had taken out loans and forged my name on them. We’d give him money to pay the taxes, but we ended up owing more than $300,000 in payroll taxes to the IRS. At one point, I owed close to $1 million to the IRS and to our vendors.

Q: What did you do?

A: I mortgaged my two houses –the San Jose one my family lives in and the one in Oregon that my grandfather lives in. I tried to pay things down as much as I could, but when interest rates went up, that killed me.

I finally filed for personal bankruptcy. So I’m no longer the owner of my company. Chris Flippen, my director of marketing and sales, is. I’m just an employee.

Q: Where is your former best friend now?

A: He disappeared. We filed police reports on him. But nobody knows where he is now.

Q: I don’t know many people who could look so pulled together after going through something like that. How have you managed to do so?

A: I’m back where I started, at square one. But I love it. I’m just happy I got through it. I survived.

Q: Your Restaurant O Catering company is now operating out of La Hacienda Inn in Los Gatos. How did that come about?

A: The owner wants to demolish the property for townhouses. But that won’t happen for a couple years. So he offered it to me in the meantime. I’ve been here since March. The building we have is twice the size of what we had at Restaurant O. And we use the patio for hosting the special wine dinners that we do each month.

Q: Have your customers remained loyal or have they been scared off by the bankruptcy?

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Take Five With Legendary Chef Bradley Ogden, Who Dishes On His Newest Project

Bradley Ogden at a recent Parcel 104 event.

Celebrated chef and restaurateur for 35 years, Bradley Ogden has overseen such acclaimed restaurants as Campton Place in San Francisco, the Lark Creek Inn in Larkspur, Parcel 104 in Santa Clara, and his eponymous Bradley Ogden in Las Vegas.

His latest project may catch you by surprise. It’s in — of all places — Solvang. Yes, the noted chef is about to put his stamp on a new, upscale restaurant in the land of windmills and Danish bakeries. Founder of the Lark Creek Restaurant Group (where he’s still a major shareholder and a board member), and in charge of the culinary programs at Parcel 104 and Bradley Ogden restaurants, Ogden let us in on the scoop about his new venture.

Q: Why in the world Solvang?

A: (laughs) It’s a consulting job at the old Royal Scandinavian Inn. The Chumash tribe bought it. They own a casino 4 miles away, but it’s not connected to this project.

It’ll be a boutique hotel with more than 100 rooms. Yes, we have to keep the country-like facade, but the inside will be gutted and the look will be contemporary and warm. I’m redoing the restaurant there. Hopefully, it’ll open in early December. Nope, there’s no name for it yet.

Q: How expensive of a project is this?

A: It’s probably at $12-$20 million project with the hotel and restaurant.

Q: What will the restaurant be like?

A: It will be about 80 seats with a glassed-in kitchen. When you walk in, there will be French doors that will open up to the lounge-bar area that will have water features, landscaping, and fireplaces. The design will be sort of a light California-Hawaiian decor.

You have one of the biggest agricultural areas in the world here, so sustainable agriculture will be a big part of the menu. It will be influenced by local fishermen and local growers. The wine list will be 90 percent American, up and down coast of California, with a heavy emphasis on the Santa Ynez, Paso Robles, and San Luis Obispo area.

It will be an upscale, contemporary American restaurant with prices in the $30 and under range.

Q: And who is the target clientele?

A: Locals, which is the mainstay of any restaurant. And we hope to draw in tourists.

Q: Is it easier or harder to open a restaurant these days?

A: It’s harder now. It doesn’t get any easier even when you know what conceptually works and doesn’t work. We’re in an economy that’s fluctuating, but it’s nothing that we haven’t been through before. People don’t have a lot of money to spend. They may stay closer to home. But they’ll always eat out. It’s cheaper to dine out than eat in.

Q: It is?

A: In some ways, yes. You can’t leave the market without paying $100.

Q: You mean, when you shop at Whole Foods?

A: (laughs)

Q: What do you think of all those reality-TV cooking shows? Do you watch them? Shun them? You know, your whole crew at Parcel 104 is addicted to “Top Chef.”

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