Category Archives: Fruit

The Taste of the Sea Is Better Than Ever at La Mar Cocina Peruna

Cebiche tasting (front to back): Clasico, Nikkei, and Victoriano.
Cebiche tasting (front to back): Clasico, Nikkei, and Victoriano.

On a summer evening when the sun lingers long even in typically foggy San Francisco, there are few better places to dine than outside at La Mar Cocina Peruna.

Located on the Embarcadero waterfront with sweeping views of the Bay, this modern Peruvian restaurant by acclaimed Chef Gaston Acurio just underwent an interior refresh, too. Its Executive Chef Victoriano Lopez also has updated the menu.

I had a chance to check out both when I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant recently.

Opened in 2008, it is one of 10 La Mar restaurants around the world, including the original one in Lima.

The bar.
The bar.
New fresh seafood display.
New fresh seafood display.

The San Francisco one glows in deep indigo hues. The bar features a giant squid art piece hanging from the ceiling. The dining room boasts light fixtures reminiscent of jellyfish, as well as a new display case of fresh seafood.

The covered patio has new planters, glass walls to guard against the wind, and plenty of heaters so the space is comfortable even when the evening chill descends.

Read more

South African Curried Lamb Skewers for Summertime Grilling

Lamb cubes get marinated overnight, then threaded on skewers with onions and dried apricots.
Lamb cubes get marinated overnight, then threaded on skewers with onions and dried apricots.

Cooking over fire is as primal and universal as it gets.

That’s perfectly illustrated in the new cookbook, “Barbecue: Smoked & Grilled Recipes From Across the Globe” (Phaidon), of which I received a review copy.

This book is a veritable trip around the world through smoky, charred deliciousness.

The specialties of more than 80 countries are represented through more than 270 recipes.

This encyclopedic cookbook is by Hugh Mangum, a Los Angeles musician-turned-chef who was executive chef and pit master of smoking Lil’s in Pennsylvania, and co-founder of the Mighty Quinn’s BBQ chain nationwide. It was written with the assistance of Shana Liebman, a food and culture writer.

Read more

Scaling the Heights of Lofty Peaches and Granola Galette

As tall and majestic as a deep-dish pizza, that's what this peach galette is like.
As tall and majestic as a deep-dish pizza, that’s what this peach galette is like.

If a classic galette were a ranch house, then this baby is a high-rise for sure.

“Lofty Peaches and Granola Galette” lives up to its name, with a girth and stature like pizza that’s extra deep-dish.

This statement-making galette is from the new cookbook, titled — what else — “Galette!” (Artisan), of which I received a review copy.

It was written by Rebecca Firkser, a Brooklyn-based writer and cook, whose recipes have been published in Bon Appetit and on Food52.

I have always loved a good galette, especially because it requires rolling out only one round of dough, and its free-form nature means no matter how you crimp or fold, it will still end up with a lovely rustic look.

Read more

Oregon Travels, Part I: Kiyokawa Family Orchards

Randy Kiyokawa at his Kiyokawa Family Orchards.
Randy Kiyokawa at his Kiyokawa Family Orchards.

Parkdale, OR — As a kid, Randy Kiyokawa dreamed of becoming either a police officer or a DJ, professions he knows couldn’t have been more different from one another.

But as Kiyokawa grew to learn, familial expectations have a way of steering one’s path in life. As his parents’ youngest child and only son, he knew deep down that his destiny likely would entail succeeding them in overseeing the family fruit farm, one of the few remaining Hood River Valley farms owned by Japanese American families who returned here following their internment during World War II.

Planted with 157 acres of fruit trees, including more varieties of apples than probably any other farm in the valley, Kiyokawa Family Orchards is a testament to perseverance and adaptation.

Thankfully, its legacy will continue now that Kiyokawa, on the brink of turning 64, is poised to turn the farm’s operations over to the fourth generation — his daughter.

Last month, I had a chance to visit the farm. Though it hadn’t yet opened to the public for the season, work was still happening, most notably on the small homes on site. He provides free housing to his 40 employees

His farm boasts a stunning view of Mount Hood.
His farm boasts a stunning view of Mount Hood.

Kiyokawa walked me around the property, where blossoms were just starting to appear on Bosc, Comice, and Anjou pear trees. He also grows peaches, plums, and baby kiwi. In a nod to his wife’s heritage, he also planted Persian plums and sour cherries.

It’s apples, though, for which his farm is best known — 125 varieties in all.

Read more

Treat Yourself to A Batch of Tamarind Cream Danishes

Puff-pastry danishes with a cream cheese-tamarind caramel filling.
Puff-pastry danishes with a cream cheese-tamarind caramel filling.

Attention: Raise your hand if you have a partially used jar of tamarind concentrate languishing in your fridge.

Yes, I’m talking to you. And to myself, of course, because I am equally guilty of that.

“Tamarind Cream Danishes” is the perfect excuse to dig out that jar and put it to good use in this flaky, buttery treats that sport a center of cream cheese and tamarind caramel.

The recipe is from “Sugarcane” (Hardie Grant, 2024) of which I received a review copy.

It was written by food writer and recipe developer Arlyn Osborne, a graduate of the French Culinary Institute in New York, who worked at Food & Wine magazine and the Food Network.

It’s a collection of 80 recipes for sweets that are inspired by her Filipino heritage from her mother’s side. Think “Ube Coconut Cake,” “Mochi-Stuffed Chocolate Chip Cookies,” “Star Fruit Tarts,” and “Lemongrass Vanilla Scones.”

Read more
« Older Entries Recent Entries »