Category Archives: Great Finds

Hawaii Eats: Mud Hen Water, Oahu

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A magnificent porchetta made with local pork and stuffed with a filling of taro leaves.
A magnificent porchetta made with local pork and stuffed with a filling of taro leaves.

Honolulu, Oahu, HI — At one point, Hawaii’s respected chef, Ed Kenney, had four restaurants. But following the throes of the pandemic, only one remains.

Mud Hen Water is still going strong, thankfully. Opened in 2015 with a strong locavore focus, it continues to be relevant and incredibly popular, among both locals and tourists, as I found when I dined there last week. It’s no wonder, too, because this is food that captures the cornucopia of cultures that comprise Hawaii, from the Mediterranean to most of Asia. With a homey Hawaiian quality and assertive flavors, this is food that you easily crave again and again.

With Kenney’s Kaimuki Superette next-door now closed, Mud Hen Water has taken over that outdoor space to offer al fresco dining. But even if you dine indoors, as we did, there’s plenty of air circulation from whirring ceiling fans and patio doors left open to take advantage of the balmy, tropical breezes.

The dining room sports ceiling fans and patio doors that stay open on warm nights, which are almost always the case on Oahu.
The dining room sports ceiling fans and patio doors that stay open on warm nights, which are almost always the case on Oahu.

Start with a playfully named Shurb a Dub Dub ($11), a bracing mix of vodka, lemon, ginger, and seasonal shrub, which in this case was a mix of guava and citrus. Zingy and tart, it’s exactly what you want on a warm night.

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Francis Ang’s Soy Sauce Chicken with Star Anise and Orange Peel

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A family recipe from Chef Francis Ang of Abaca.
A family recipe from Chef Francis Ang of Abaca.

Think of this as the harmonious marriage of Chinese soy sauce chicken and Filipino chicken adobo.

“Soy Sauce Chicken with Star Anise and Orange Peel” is from Chef Francis Ang of San Francisco’s Abaca restaurant.

No wonder it has elements of both when this family recipe was conceived by his China-born grandmother when she was living in the Philippines.

The recipe was published recently in the Wall St. Journal’s “Slow Food Fast” column, in which notable chefs from around the country contribute a series of home cook-friendly recipes that spotlight their heritage and cooking styles.

You may fear that chef recipes are typically way too complicated and fussy. Not this one. It couldn’t be easier.

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Diving Into Del Popolo’s Frozen Pizzas

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Potato, rosemary, and mozzarella pizza baked from frozen -- from Del Popolo.
Potato, rosemary, and mozzarella pizza baked from frozen — from Del Popolo.

You know you’ve made it when you not only graduate from a insanely popular food truck to a wildly successful brick-and-mortar pizzeria but finally to primo frozen pizzas stocked at discerning local grocery stores.

That’s the story of San Francisco’s Del Popolo, started by owner Jon Darsky who started hauling a 5,000-pound pizza oven around in a deconstructed shipping container in 2012 before opening his Del Popolo pizzeria in 2015.

The frozen pizzas.
The frozen pizzas.

During the pandemic, it started offering frozen pizzas, which can now be found at the restaurant, as well as in the freezer cases at Bi-Rite Market, Rainbow Grocery, Berkeley Bowl, Piazza’s Fine Foods, Draeger’s, Epicurean Trader, and Whole Foods.

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Dining At Afici

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A spectacular uni pasta at Afici in San Francisco.
A spectacular uni pasta at Afici in San Francisco.

Few good things resulted from the pandemic. But one of them is surely Afici.

This South of Market fine-dining restaurant in San Francisco grew out of the pasta-oriented pop-up and takeout that Executive Chef Eric Upper of Alexander’s Steakhouse did during shutdown. A New York City native who worked at Auerole in New York, and Joel Robuchon in Las Vegas, Upper had the opportunity to lean into his Italian heritage, having studied Tuscan cuisine at Lorenzo de’ Medici School in Florence.

The pop-up proved so popular that it led the Alexander’s Steakhouse Restaurant Group to open Afici last summer.

The result is a stylish restaurant featuring inspired Italian specialties not found easily elsewhere, including house-made charcuterie made exclusively with prized A5 Wagyu.

I had a chance to experience Afici last week, when I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant.

Afici's bar and lounge.
Afici’s bar and lounge.

With the wacky weather of late that’s brought snow to the Bay Area, it was an especially nice touch to be greeted at the host stand with cups of warm ginger-infused tea.

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A Different Kind of Alfredo

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An Alfredo that's not exactly what you think it is.
An Alfredo that’s not exactly what you think it is.

Imagine your favorite creamy, cheesy Alfredo — but without any wheat, gluten or even fuss.

And with very few carbs.

In fact, this Alfredo comes together so fast, it’s practically done once you boil a pot of water.

That’s because this is “Enoki Alfredo.”

Yes, this clever one-pot recipe substitutes the usual long strands of pasta for the skinny-stemmed, tiny-capped white mushrooms instead.

It’s from “Cooking with Mushrooms” (Artisan, 2022), of which I received a review copy, the first cookbook by Andrea Gentl, an award-winning food and travel photographer.

The informative book includes a primer on mushroom varieties, including how best to use them, as well as their nutritional properties, along with advice for shopping, storing, cleaning, and prepping them. There’s even a section on how to grow your own mushrooms.

Nearly 100 recipes, for both fresh and dried mushrooms, are included. They are certain to broaden your horizons when it comes to enjoying them, too. Wrap your head around “Mushroom Jerky,” Mushroom Rose Cardamom Rye Granola,” “Crispy Rack of Oyster Mushroom,” “Mezcal Mushroom Margarita,” and “Coconut Dark Chocolate Porcini Pots de Creme.”

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