Category Archives: Great Finds

Pastry Run, Part II: Butter & Crumble

Posted on by Leave a comment
The robustly flavored, flaky, buttery, French Onion Soup pastry at Butter & Crumble.
The robustly flavored, flaky, buttery, French Onion Soup pastry at Butter & Crumble.

There’s no doubt that the pandemic wrought untold devastation, heartache, and misery.

But if there was one shining light to emerge from that trying time, it was surely Butter & Crumble in San Francisco.

Owner Sophie Smith was a line cook at San Francisco’s A16, when restaurants were forced to shutter temporarily. She started baking cakes, a side hustle during the hiatus, until she could resume working toward her dream of eventually opening her own restaurant some day.

But something unexpected happened: Her dreamy cakes, lavished with thick, creamy frosting over layers that hid crunchy, crumbly bits, became a sensation. So much so that it upended her entire trajectory.

I was in line for more than an hour to get these beauties.
I was in line for more than an hour to get these beauties.

She was soon pursuing a new goal of opening up her own bakery. In Oct. 2023, her brick-and-mortar location in North Beach debuted. From the first day, long lines stretched down the block. They haven’t dwindled since.

Read more

Pastry Run, Part I: Parachute Bakery

Posted on by Leave a comment
What I scored at Parachute Bakery in San Francisco.
What I scored at Parachute Bakery in San Francisco.

Sometimes it pays to be a latecomer.

When Parachute Bakery opened last summer in the Ferry Building, eager beavers with major sweet tooths swarmed the place. So much so that the bakery was selling out less than 3 hours after opening.

Now? The crowds are more manageable, especially on weekdays, which I found when I finally visited at the end of January.

It’s easy to understand the fuss. After all, Parachute is by the team behind Michelin-starred Sorrel in San Francisco, Chef Alex Hong and Joel Wilkerson, director of operations. Its co-owner and executive pastry chef is Nasir Armar, who grew up working in his father’s bakery in India. He was the former pastry chef at Sorrel, and at Michelin two-starred Saison in San Francisco.

Parchute Bakery is near Gott's in the Ferry Building.
Parchute Bakery is near Gott’s in the Ferry Building.

To say that Armar’s pastries exemplify precision is to put it mildly. These are some gorgeous creations. They are not all looks and no substance, either. The flavors hold their own.

Read more

The Comfort of Red Lentil, Dried Mint & Lemon Soup

Posted on by 2 comments
A naturally creamy red lentil soup that's vegan.
A naturally creamy red lentil soup that’s vegan.

It’s warming, nourishing, and seductively curry-like.

That’s what “Red Lentil, Dried Mint & Lemon Soup” is all about. It’s also so easy and fast that you’re sure to make it on repeat whenever you want to tuck into a cozy bowl.

The recipe is from “Boustany” (10 Speed Press, 2025), of which I received a review copy.

It was written by Sami Tamimi, a Palestinian chef, restaurateur and food writer who grew up in Jerusalem before moving to Tel Aviv, then to London and Umbria, Italy.

His love for cooking, which started as a child in his mother’s kitchen, led him to start a catering company in Tel Aviv, then to running the savory kitchen of Baker & Spice in London, before joining forces with Yotam Ottolenghi to open Ottolenghi Deli in London. “Jerusalem,” a cookbook he and Ottolengthi wrote together, won the “International Book Award” from the James Beard Foundation in 2013. Tamimi’s “Falastin” cookbook won an IACP award.

“Bustany” is derived from the Arabic term for “garden.” Farming has long been and continues to be a way of life for Palestinians, as Tamimi notes in his book. Foraging also provides not only sustenance but another source of income. Among his happiest memories are spending time in the thriving garden at his grandparents’ house in Hebron.

Read more

Atelier Crenn Celebrates 15 Years In A Big Way

Posted on by 2 comments
Scallop, smoked mussel and caviar, a dazzling dish from the Atelier Crenn & Atomix collaboration dinner.
Scallop, smoked mussel and caviar, a dazzling dish from the Atelier Crenn & Atomix collaboration dinner.

When a Michelin three-starred restaurant reaches a milestone 15th anniversary, you know it will pull out all the stops.

Such is the case with San Francisco’s acclaimed Atelier Crenn, which marks that occasion this year by debuting Continuum, a new collaborative dining experience. It brings visionary chefs from around the world to cook at the Cow Hollow neighborhood restaurant with Chef-Owner Dominique Crenn and Pastry Chef Juan Contreras.

I was fortunate enough to be invited in as a guest for the inaugural dinner last week with Chef Junghyun Park of Atomix, the modern Korean restaurant in New York City that’s garnered two Michelin stars, and was named No. 1 on “North America’s 50 Best Restaurants” list. It also catapulted him to a James Beard “Best Chef New York” in 2023.

Not surprisingly, it took less than a day for the $596.55-per-person dinner to sell out.

Chef Dominique Crenn.
Chef Dominique Crenn.
The entrance to the Michelin three-starred restaurant.
The entrance to the Michelin three-starred restaurant.

Once seated, you’ll find a small packet at your place setting. Inside, you’ll find cards introducing Chef Park, along with information about some of his dishes to be served.

Read more

Revved Up for Ramen, Part II: Kisetsu Ramen Pop-Up at Cyrus

Posted on by Leave a comment
Pork shoyu ramen at the pop-up at Michelin-starred Cyrus.
Pork shoyu ramen at the pop-up at Michelin-starred Cyrus.

Ramen originated as a humble, working-class dish meant to be cheap and eaten in a hurry.

But when a Michelin-starred Wine Country restaurant debuts a ramen pop-up in its sleek, glass and concrete building with a view of vineyards, you know it will be anything but that.

That is definitely the case at this winter kisetsu ramen pop-up at Cyrus in Geyserville, which I happened to catch on its inaugural night last Thursday.

The pop-up, available Thursday through Saturday evenings, accommodates 12 diners max in the front portion of the lounge. The rest of the lounge remains the starting point for diners indulging in the full tasting-menu progressive experience at $325 per person, which takes about 3 hours.

In contrast, the ramen menu is $75 for three courses, which my husband and I finished in about 75 minutes.

The entrance.
The entrance.
Quite the setting for a bowl of ramen.
Quite the setting for a bowl of ramen.
The ramen menu.
The ramen menu.

The pop-up will last at least through winter. If it proves popular, it may stick around longer.

Read more
« Older Entries Recent Entries »