Category Archives: Pizza

Where’s the Cumin?

Posted on by 4 comments
Fragrant and irresistible lamb pizza, made even better with cumin.
Fragrant and irresistible lamb pizza, made even better with cumin.

When I spied this recipe for “Xi’an Famous Pizza” that was inspired by the mouth-watering Chinese food served at the family-owned New York institution, Xi’an Famous Foods, one thought came to mind immediately:

Where’s the cumin?

This pizza was originally a collaboration between Paulie Gee’s pizzeria in Brooklyn, which created this popular lamb-topped pizza with Xi’an Famous Foods’ spicy, umami bomb chili crisp drizzled over the top.

But anyone like myself who’s ever dined at one of the locations of this casual, no-frills Chinese restaurant surely can’t forget the deep earthy warmth of the cumin-scented lamb that adorns its hand-ripped noodles or gets stuffed burger-style into tender flatbread.

So, when I made this pizza, there was no way I was going to leave out the cumin.

The recipe is from “Pizza From the Heart” (Union Square & Co.), of which I received a review copy. It was written by Paulie Gee and Mary Ann Giannone, founder’s of Paulie Gee’s, which now boasts locations in Chicago, Baltimore and Ohio, too. It was written with assistance from food writer, Sarah Zorn.

Read more

San Jose’s New Poppy & Claro Outperforms

Posted on by 2 comments
Seared salmon with cauliflower, broccolini, and cornmeal-battered green beans. Would you believe this is all of $21 at Poppy & Claro?
Seared salmon with cauliflower, broccolini, and cornmeal-battered green beans. Would you believe this is all of $21 at Poppy & Claro?

Admittedly, when I was invited to dine as a guest of a new downtown San Jose restaurant, one established by the building’s developer who had never opened a restaurant before, I arrived skeptical.

By the time I left, though, I was an avowed convert, because Poppy & Claro far exceeded expectations.

Housed on the ground floor of the former KQED office building (and former Knight Ridder building before that), it’s very much designed for the weekday work crowd, as it’s open only Monday through Friday, 7:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. However, it’s available for private events on Sundays and Mondays.

Created by the Jay Paul Company, a Silicon Valley real estate firm, it’s centrally located right next to the San Jose Museum of Art and the winter ice skating rink. There’s even outdoor seating right by the Circle of Palms Plaza.

The communal table in the shape of the state.
The communal table in the shape of the state.
The bar.
The bar.

The restaurant name pays homage to California’s state flower and the wood from the state’s native walnut tree.

Read more

Dining in Los Angeles, Part II: The Astonishing Michelin Three-Starred Somni

Posted on by 6 comments
A pizza Margherita that will leave you dumbstruck at Somni.
A pizza Margherita that will leave you dumbstruck at Somni.

The first time I ever dined at the French Laundry in Yountville was a seminal experience, one punctuated by a whirlwind of wee dishes that somehow possessed such outsized, intense flavors that they left me feeling as if I were tasting food for the very first time.

Earlier this month at Somni, I relived that same type of vivid, jolting excitement — but with even more whimsy, humor, and daring.

No wonder this Los Angeles restaurant garnered three Michelin stars this year practically right out of the gate after opening in November 2024.

To be fair, Somni’s original incarnation that opened in Beverly Hills in 2018 had already earned two Michelin stars before it was forced to close when the pandemic hit, the same week it would have celebrated not only its second anniversary, but Chef-Owner Aitor Zabala’s birthday.

The unassuming entrance.
The unassuming entrance.
The courtyard behind the gate, where the meal begins.
The courtyard behind the gate, where the meal begins.
The giraffe sculpture at the front.
The giraffe sculpture at the front.
A welcome note.
A welcome note.

After hunting high and low, he found the ideal space in West Hollywood to relocate in what was previously a Donna Karan store and a former music studio frequented by Jennifer Lopez.

Read more

Dining in Los Angeles, Part I: Splendid Italian Cuisine at Bestia

Posted on by 2 comments
The fantastic Margherita at Bestia.
The fantastic Margherita at Bestia.

A server who traded Southern California for Northern California recently remarked to me that they like their restaurants loud in Los Angeles.

He wasn’t kidding.

Having dined at Bavel in Los Angeles two years ago, and its sister restaurant Bestia in Los Angeles a couple weeks ago, I can concur, as these are among the noisiest restaurants where I’ve ever dined. We’re talking a volume where you need to practically shout at your dining companion across the table to be heard. Dine outside at either establishment though, and you will fare a bit better, as the clamor will still be high, but more manageable.

Even so, I will gladly put up with the din to enjoy the superlative Middle Eastern specialties at Bavel, and the exceptional Italian fare at Bestia.

It's always loud and crowded at Bestia.
It’s always loud and crowded at Bestia.

Both restaurants are owned by Chef Ori Menashe and his Pastry Chef wife Genevieve Gergis. They opened Bestia in 2012, followed by Bavel in 2018, and their very casual Saffy’s in 2022.

Read more
« Older Entries