Category Archives: Recipes (Savory)

Dorie Greenspan’s Sensational Scallops

A scallop dish that will make any day a whole lot better.

“Scallops with Caramel-Orange Sauce” should have to be registered as a mind-altering, mood-enhancing dish.

That’s because this dish from Dorie Greenspan’s “Around My French Table” (Houghton Mifflin) is guaranteed to lift your spirits, put a delirious grin on your face and give you happy feet.

That’s how incredibly delicious it is.

Stressed over your job?

Eat this dish.

Stressed about not having a job?

Eat this.

There’s magic in this dish. It’s really just seared scallops, but it’s the thick, syrupy, buttery citrus glaze that gets spooned over that makes it extraordinary. Seriously, one taste and you’ll want to pour it over everything — grilled halibut, broiled shrimp, chicken tenders, pork loin and even French toast.

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Lemon Lasagna

Sausage, Swiss chard and slivers of lemon make this lasagna unforgettable.

Can you stand just one more lemon recipe?

After all, you know your friends are still foisting their backyard lemons on you or you’re still picking ripe ones off your own tree.

So, dedicate one of those lemons to this fabulous dish: “Sausage, Chard and Lemon Lasagna.” It’s from the March 2011 issue of Martha Stewart Living magazine.

It’s a very rich dish. I won’t kid you about that, what with the creamy, cheesy white sauce made with full-fat milk that binds everything together. The lemon gets sliced very thin. As you layer the no-bake lasagna noodles, sausage, and Swiss chard-white sauce mixture, you also add a layer of lemon slices, which have been blanched ahead of time to remove some of their bitterness.

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En-dive or On-deev?

Did you know there's only one company in the United States that grows Belgian endive?

I sheepishly admit that I always thought either pronunciation was correct. In fact, I thought only those know-it-all-types who speak with their pinkies held high in the air actually refer to this distinctive member of the chicory family as “on-deev.”

How wrong I was, as Rodger Helwig, so kindly set me straight by telling me there is a difference after all. Helwig is the spokesperson for California Vegetable Specialties of Rio Vista, Calif., the only producer of endives in the United States. It sells more than 4 million pounds of red and white endives each year.

The elongated Belgian endive with its slender, smooth leaves packed tightly together, and which is grown in the dark, is pronounced “on-deev.” Because it hails originally from Belgium, it is pronounced the French way. On the other hand, curly endive with disheveled, wild leaves, and which grows in light, is pronounced “en-dive.”

It’s not surprising that there’s only one producer of endive in this country, given how difficult it is to grow. Indeed, it must undergo two growth phases before it is ready for market. In the first phase, the endives are in the ground outdoors for 150 days, where it grows from seed to root. Next, the top of the plants are lopped off, the roots dug up, then placed in cold storage to enter a dormant phase. Then, the roots are removed from cold storage for their second growth, which is done hydroponically and takes place in a dark, cool and humid room.  They are left to grow for about 28 days before they are dug up for market. Because of this process, endives are available year-round in this country.

Helwig is hoping more Americans will discover the versatility, and wonderful crisp, nutty, slightly bitter taste of endive. Europeans love the stuff, consuming 13 to 15 pounds per person a year, he says. Americans, though, eat merely an ounce a year.

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Meaty Memories

My Dad taught me to love this unconventional cut of beef.

Oxtails.

The name alone may make some people blanch.

But to me, the tail never fails to get me in the heart.

You see, oxtails were the very last dish that I cooked for my Dad before he passed away. And so, they always make me think of him.

He’s the one who taught me true appreciation for this once-shunned, once-inexpensive cut that has such brazen beefiness.

If you like short ribs, you’re sure to go crazy for oxtails, which cook up even more tender with even more profound flavor. You can find them easily in the butcher case of Asian markets.

Sure, there’s more cartilage and bone in oxtails. But that’s what adds to their flavor and makes eating them such messy fun.

My Dad would cook up a cavernous pot on weekends, simmering the cut-up oxtails with star anise, soy sauce and ginger in a brothy cross between a soup and a stew. He’d throw in carrots and turnips, then let the pot simmer for hours until the meat was as tender as can be.

Then, he’d ladle big scoops of it into flat bowls filled with fluffy steamed rice, with the grains absorbing the aromatic broth so perfectly.

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Braised Chicken Fit for Rainy Weather

Tender chicken cooked with apple cider to soothe your heart and tummy on a blustery, wet day.

When pelted left and right by rain, seek comfort with this dish, in which the only thing that gets soaked is the bread you’re sure to want to dunk into its brothy, fruity sauce.

“Braised Chicken with Apple Cider, Tarragon, and Cream” is from “Eating Local, the Cookbook Inspired by America’s Farmers” (Andrews McMeel) by Sur La Table in conjunction with Bay Area food writer Janet Fletcher.

The book, of which I received a review copy,  is filled with recipes that make the best use of each season’s bounty. It also includes profiles of 10 farmers across the country.

In this stew, a whole chicken, cut up into about 10 pieces, braises gently on the stovetop in chicken broth, shallots, tarragon and apple cider. I swapped out the cider, however, for Calvados, since I had a bottle of the apple brandy already open at home. Plus, in dreary weather like this, you need a little something something to get things going, don’t you think?

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