Category Archives: Recipes (Savory)

Whipped Spam — Whip It Good

Spam -- that you don't want to delete.
Spam — that you don’t want to delete.

It’s as guilty a pleasure as there ever was one.

Spam is both beloved and maligned. But as anyone who grew up like me with the canned lunch meat will attest, there’s just a comforting nostalgia that tugs whenever we spot the familiar blue and yellow can on a supermarket shelf.

It’s mandatory for Hawaiian musubi, handy for noodle stir-fries on the spur of the moment, and a right of passage with eggs of any sort in the morning.

Now, get ready to enjoy it in “Whipped Spam with Toast Points,” in which it takes on an airy, chopped liver or dip-like consistency when whipped with cream cheese and herbs.

This intriguing recipe is from “Padma’s All American: A Cookbook” (Alfred A. Knopf), of which I received a review copy.

It’s by Padma Lakshmi, the former host and executive producer of Bravo’s “Top Chef” for 19 years. The cookbook draws from her travels and experiences from her Hulu series, “Taste the Nation with Padma Lakshmi.” If you haven’t yet watched the two seasons, I highly recommend them not only for the salivating food that’s highlighted, but for the deep illuminating cultural insights.

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In Love with Long Beans Amatriciana

Skip the bucatini and use Chinese long beans in this fun amatriciana dish.
Skip the bucatini and use Chinese long beans in this fun amatriciana dish.

The dress that droops like a sad sack on the hanger but is transformative when slipped on. That plain cookie you reached for last that is surprisingly the most scrumptious of the bunch. And that quiet, nerdy guy you initially dismissed who turns out to be the love of your life.

Yes, looks can be deceiving.

“Long Beans Amatriciana” is proof of that.

Using Chinese long beans, otherwise known as yard beans or snake beans, in place of bucatini might seem virtuous and the ultimate no-carb, gluten-free hack. But in the hands of Chef Jeremy Fox, it is decidedly decadent, loaded with crispy guanciale, and finished with butter.

And wow, is it ever dangerously delicious.

This clever recipe is from his newest cookbook, “On Meat” (Phaidon), of which I received a review copy. It was written with his wife, Rachael Sheridan, a writer and actress.

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Memories of Mulligatawny Soup

Mulligatawny soup that holds a special place in my heart.
Mulligatawny soup that holds a special place in my heart.

During summers in high school, I’d work in my dad’s department at Greyhound in San Francisco, where he was a bookkeeper.

It was tedious work to be sure, filing papers and ticket receipts by hand, hour after hour, (yes, before dawn of the digital age).

The highlight of the day was always lunch, when my dad and I would walk a few yards outside to go to a cafe that catered to the in-a-rush office crowd.

It was cafeteria-style, where you took your tray down the line until you got to the station from which you wanted to order. I always held out to the end, where the roster of rotating homemade soups could be found hidden under stainless steel lids. It proved my introduction to the wide, wide world of soups. There was the familiar minestrone and clam chowder, of course, but also Mexican wedding soup, Greek Avogolemo soup, and Indian mulligatawny, all of which were new to me and dazzled with their distinctive, warm flavors.

That’s why one spoonful of this golden “Mulligatawny Soup” prompted a flood of wonderful memories of sitting at a cafe table with my dad, discussing the food we were enjoying as he’d ask “How’s things?”

The recipe is from the new “My Indian Kitchen” (Figure 1), of which I received a review copy, by Vikram Vij, the celebrated chef and restaurateur behind the groundbreaking Vij’s, which opened in 1994 and introduced Vancouver, BC to contemporary, innovative Indian cuisine. It was written with Jennifer Muttoo, a hospitality and marketing expert.

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Sally’s Baking Addiction’s Buttermilk Chive Fantail Rolls

These rolls are sure to be a star on your holiday table.
These rolls are sure to be a star on your holiday table.

Holidays do a delicate dance between delivering comforting nostalgia and raise-the-bar pomp.

“Buttermilk Chive Fantail Rolls” cuts the difference splendidly. With their distinctive look of fanned-out pages of a classic novel, they signal “special” from the get-go. Yet with their ability to be enjoyed one layer at a time, they evoke memories of those refrigerated Pillsbury Grands biscuits in a tube that pops open with a “whoosh.”

Dressed up with snipped chives plus garlic and onion powders, these biscuits are from the new “Sally’s Baking 101” (Clarkson Potter), of which I received a review copy, that’s already a New York Times best-seller.

It was written by Maryland-based Sally McKenney, founder behind the sensation known as Sally’s Baking Addiction website, which has amassed millions of loyal readers. Established in 2011, the site is famed for its meticulously tested recipes and beautiful food photography.

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David Nayfeld’s Miso Honey Mustard Baked Chicken

A creamy Kewpie mayo-miso dressing does double duty, marinating the chicken and finishing  a simple salad.
A creamy Kewpie mayo-miso dressing does double duty, marinating the chicken and finishing a simple salad.

We all know what it’s like to be face-to-face with a case of the hangries.

When you or someone with you is about to have a meltdown unless some delicious and satisfying food materializes pronto.

As the father of a 5-year-old daughter, David Nayfeld has been there more times than he can count.

Even for this chef-restaurateur of San Francisco’s Che Fico, Che Fico Pizzeria and Via Aurelia, as well as Menlo Park’s Bubbelah and Che Fico Parco, it can be a challenge when his daughter Helena asks pleadingly, “Dad, what’s for dinner?”

So, he’s taken all the tips and shortcuts he’s learned along the way and compiled it into his new cookbook, appropriately named, “Dad, What’s For Dinner?” (Alfred A. Knopf). It was written with Joshua David Stein, a Brooklyn author of cookbooks and children’s books.

The cookbook, of which I received a review copy, is a collection of more than 80 recipes designed to be family-pleasing, with nods to sneaking in a few more vegetables here and there, too.

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