Category Archives: Restaurants

The Village Pub Marks A Decade

Asparagus flan with lobster and caviar at the posh Village Pub in Woodside.

If you want to know where the power people dine in Silicon Valley, look no farther than the Village Pub in Woodside.

I don’t think I’ve seen this many men in suits in a South Bay/Peninsula restaurant — ever. It was kind of a nice change of pace, too, from the usual “casual Friday”-look that sadly tends to permeate every day of the week here.

On a recent Friday night, when I was invited to dine as a guest of the restaurant, the elegant dining room with its dark,polished wood and plush burgundy velvet banquettes was hopping, with every seat taken. Quite a few tables were occupied by an all-male party, with at least one displaying an open laptop on the table.

Chef Mark Sullivan of Spruce in San Francisco opened the restaurant 10 years ago. The day-to-day cooking now is overseen by Executive Chef Dmitry Elperin, who has worked at such San Francisco stalwarts as One Market, Campton Place and Aqua.

An open hearth in the dining room affords a peek into the kitchen.

We had a prime table right in front of the roaring, open hearth that affords a peek into the kitchen. Dark, crusty loaves of bread (from sister establishment Mayfield Bakery & Cafe in Palo Alto) are kept at the foot of the fire to ensure slices arrive at your table warm each and every time.

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Heaven On A Bun

Now, THIS is a burger.

Oftentimes, burgers leave you wanting.

They turn out to be a little dry. Or not so flavorful. Or just kind of ho-hum.

Not so with this baby.

“Grilled Pork Burgers” from “Sunday Suppers at Lucques” (Alfred A. Knopf) is everything you want in a great burger and more. The recipe is from Chef Suzanne Goin of the wonderful Lucques restaurant in Los Angeles. Its Sunday Suppers are legendary for how fresh and vibrant the dishes are, as well as what a deal they comprise at $45 for three impeccable courses.

Lucques’ pork burger is far more complex than your average beef one.  It’s more like a fabulous pork sausage shaped into a hefty disk.

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A Snazzy-Jazzy Time at 1300 on Fillmore

A more refined version of fried chicken at 1300 on Fillmore in San Francisco.

1300 on Fillmore will transport you to another time, another place.

The glamorous San Francisco supper club greets you like a contemporary Southern belle with attitude from the moment you step inside its massive, heavy doors.

All warm, chocolate brown leather and polished wood, the lounge features a dramatic wall of back-lit black and white photos of the historic Fillmore Jazz District that surrounds the restaurant, a short drive from the Hotel Kabuki San Francisco.

Indeed, there’s live jazz in the lounge regularly, and even gospel performances during Sunday brunch.

The lovely lounge area with historic photos of the Fillmore Jazz District.

The sexy, soothing dining room.

Recently, I was invited to be a guest of the four-year-old restaurant to try Executive Chef David Lawrence’s singular take on Southern specialties. Lawrence owns the restaurant with his wife, Monetta, who greets guests in the dining room as if welcoming them to her own home.

He is English-born, of Jamaican heritage, and French-trained — all of which shows on his plates. The food has the comforting quality you want in Southern cooking, but here it’s done up with far more flair and refinement.

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Meet Bradley Ogden and Rick Bayless, Plus Loads More

Meet Chef Bradley Ogden. (Photo courtesy of the chef)

Shop and Dine with Chef Bradley Ogden

On June 9, shoppers at the Marin Farmers Market will get a chance to meet Chef Bradley Ogden, co-founder of the Lark Creek Restaurant Group, and Chef Aaron Wright of the Tavern at Lark Creek in Larkspur.

The two chefs will be at the Star Route Farms booth at the center of the farmers market at 9:30 a.m. to answer questions about the best produce.

That evening, join the two chefs at the Tavern at Lark Creek, when Ogden hosts a dinner to showcase dishes from his new cookbook, “Holiday Dinners with Bradley Ogden” (Running Press), which will be published in September.

The $35 per person prix fixe will include grilled apricot and goat cheese salad; flank steak with sweet oven-dried tomatoes and potato salad; and mixed berry cobbler. For reservations, call (415) 924-7766.

Rick Bayless will conduct cooking demos at Sunset magazine's big "Celebration Weekend.'' (Photo courtesy of the chef)

Rick Bayless Stars at Sunset’s Celebration Weekend

Menlo Park’s Sunset magazine opens its doors, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. June 4-5, for its annual “Celebration Weekend 2011: Make It Your Own.”

Chef Rick Bayless, Chicago restaurateur known for his prowess with Mexican cuisine and for winning the first season of “Top Chef Masters,” will headline cooking demos each day, 12:30 p.m. to 1:15 p.m.. He’ll be whipping up Mexican-inspired dishes, including Mexican-style shrimp cocktail and “Tropical Beach Ceviche.”

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Take Five with Chef Robert Sapirman, on His Big Plans for Citrus Restaurant in Santana Row

Chef Robert Sapirman on the terrace of the Hotel Valencia.

Chef Robert Sapirman has circled the Bay Area in the past year, only to wind up not too far from where he once was.

Bay Area foodies may remember him as the long-time head chef of Parcel 104 in Santa Clara. He departed that upscale restaurant in the Marriott Hotel to open Vesu in Walnut Creek, only to see that restaurant shutter a year later.

Now, for nearly six months, he’s been the executive chef of Citrus in the Hotel Valencia in San Jose’s Santana Row, just a few miles from — you guessed it — Parcel 104. The eight-year-old Hotel Valencia, known for years far more for its lively bar scene than its restaurant food, is in for a transformation. By the end of the year, not only will the lobby and other public areas of the hotel get a freshened look, but Citrus will debut a new concept. Sapirman, long known for his commitment to stellar ingredients, was brought in specifically to try to put Citrus on the map for discriminating foodies. Under his direction, expect the restaurant’s current steakhouse concept to give way to a more dynamic one of global tapas.

Recently, I had a chance to sit down with the 37-year-old, New Jersey-born and Fort Lauderdale-reared chef who now oversees the food for not only for Citrus, VBar, and Cielo wine bar, but banquets and room service for the 212-room hotel.

Vietnamese-style caramelized ribs cooked sous vide, finished on the grill, then served with housemade kimchee.

Q: Is your food here similar to what you were cooking at Parcel 104?

A: It’s similar in that it’s ingredient-driven. I try to seek out the best ingredients that I can. My passion now is global tapas. I did a little of that at lunch at Parcel 104 before I left. Vesu also was a great platform for that.

Q: Are you hoping to change the perception that the Hotel Valencia is all about the bar scene?

A: Absolutely. We have a handicap in Citrus in that we’re surrounded by other restaurants. We need to make you come up to the second floor here. Plus, the perception is that restaurants in hotels are not good. I know we struggled with that at the Marriott, too.

I hope to fill this 62-seat restaurant every night and to get people up here to love my food. That’s what every chef wants, right? I hope to make the restaurant as busy as the hotel is, so that when people call for a reservation, there won’t be any.

Q: How will you differentiate yourself from the other restaurants at Santana Row?

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