Category Archives: Restaurants

Take Five With Legendary Chef Bradley Ogden, Who Dishes On His Newest Project

Bradley Ogden at a recent Parcel 104 event.

Celebrated chef and restaurateur for 35 years, Bradley Ogden has overseen such acclaimed restaurants as Campton Place in San Francisco, the Lark Creek Inn in Larkspur, Parcel 104 in Santa Clara, and his eponymous Bradley Ogden in Las Vegas.

His latest project may catch you by surprise. It’s in — of all places — Solvang. Yes, the noted chef is about to put his stamp on a new, upscale restaurant in the land of windmills and Danish bakeries. Founder of the Lark Creek Restaurant Group (where he’s still a major shareholder and a board member), and in charge of the culinary programs at Parcel 104 and Bradley Ogden restaurants, Ogden let us in on the scoop about his new venture.

Q: Why in the world Solvang?

A: (laughs) It’s a consulting job at the old Royal Scandinavian Inn. The Chumash tribe bought it. They own a casino 4 miles away, but it’s not connected to this project.

It’ll be a boutique hotel with more than 100 rooms. Yes, we have to keep the country-like facade, but the inside will be gutted and the look will be contemporary and warm. I’m redoing the restaurant there. Hopefully, it’ll open in early December. Nope, there’s no name for it yet.

Q: How expensive of a project is this?

A: It’s probably at $12-$20 million project with the hotel and restaurant.

Q: What will the restaurant be like?

A: It will be about 80 seats with a glassed-in kitchen. When you walk in, there will be French doors that will open up to the lounge-bar area that will have water features, landscaping, and fireplaces. The design will be sort of a light California-Hawaiian decor.

You have one of the biggest agricultural areas in the world here, so sustainable agriculture will be a big part of the menu. It will be influenced by local fishermen and local growers. The wine list will be 90 percent American, up and down coast of California, with a heavy emphasis on the Santa Ynez, Paso Robles, and San Luis Obispo area.

It will be an upscale, contemporary American restaurant with prices in the $30 and under range.

Q: And who is the target clientele?

A: Locals, which is the mainstay of any restaurant. And we hope to draw in tourists.

Q: Is it easier or harder to open a restaurant these days?

A: It’s harder now. It doesn’t get any easier even when you know what conceptually works and doesn’t work. We’re in an economy that’s fluctuating, but it’s nothing that we haven’t been through before. People don’t have a lot of money to spend. They may stay closer to home. But they’ll always eat out. It’s cheaper to dine out than eat in.

Q: It is?

A: In some ways, yes. You can’t leave the market without paying $100.

Q: You mean, when you shop at Whole Foods?

A: (laughs)

Q: What do you think of all those reality-TV cooking shows? Do you watch them? Shun them? You know, your whole crew at Parcel 104 is addicted to “Top Chef.”

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Team In Training _ Big Time

As if Yountville didn’t already boast an unseemly number of top chefs (it has more Michelin stars per capita than any other city in the world), now it’ll get even more.

Thomas Keller of the French Laundry in Yountville has teamed up with New York superstar Chef Daniel Boulud to establish a non-profit organization aimed at giving young American chefs a leg up on competing in the Bocuse d’Or, the legendary culinary Olympics in which the United States historically hasn’t fared very well.

Keller and Boulud will help choose eight young chefs who will compete in a September cook-off in Orlando at the Epcot International Food & Wine Festival. The top winners will go on to comprise the American team that will compete in the Bocuse d’Or in Lyon, France in January 2009 against 19 other teams.

The American team will get some serious training, October through January, at a special facility set up in a house in Yountville next-door to the French Laundry.  Not only that, but the team’s techniques will be perfected by none other than Certified Master Chef Roland Henin, whom Keller worked for early on in his career and who remains one of the chefs he most admires.

Restaurant Happenings

The produce garden at 25ºBrix

Longtime stalwart Napa restaurant Brix has morphed into 25ºBrix with new owners and a new look.

The owners, the Kelleher Family winemakers, picked the slightly different name to symbolize the sugar level at which they pick their grapes for their Cabarnet Sauvignon. Their consultant on the project was David Gingrass of Two in San Francisco, who has put in a 2-acre garden on the property, which will grow produce for the restaurant.

Menu items include beer-battered soft-shell crab with cherry tomato vinaigrette ($22); Berkshire pork schnitzel with sunny quail eggs, caper brown butter and spaetzel ($28); and whole roasted branzini with potato and crab hash ($32).

An adjacent wine shop on the property sells cult and hard-to-fiind Napa Valley wines. Visitors also can pick up fresh-baked baguettes and gourmet picnic baskets to-go from the restaurant.

Down the road in St. Helena, Go Fish restaurant has livened up its outdoor dining area with acoustic contemporary and blues music every Thursday night. A flat-panel TV also has been installed, along with a misting system to keep patrons cool in the summer heat. On the Fourth of July, Go Fish plans to fire up the grill on the patio to cook up an outdoor feast.

More al fresco eating can be had at the Dry Creek Kitchen at the Hotel Healdsburg. Every Wednesday night through September, the restaurant features “Family BBQ Night,” a three-course meal served family-style for $32 per person.

Offerings may include Painted Hills Skirt Steak and Niman Ranch Pork Loin; bourbon baked beans and potato salad; and fruit pie.

Along the coast, Nick’s Cove on the east shore of Tomales Bay, is hosting winemaker events with featured winemakers and specially prepared dishes from Chef de Cuisine Adam Mali.

June 19 at 6 p.m. is “Coastal Expressions” night, featuring wines from Radio-Coteau. July 17 at 6 p.m. is “Contemporary. Innovative. Out of the Ordinary,” an evening of wines from Duckhorn, Paraduxx and Goldeneye. Price for each wine dinner is $75 per person.  RSVPÂ by calling (415) 663-1033.

For those who are always on the go, Jack Falstaff in San Francisco has created a new “Power Lunch” menu. It’s a selection of two-course paired menu items such as potato & leek soup with Jack’s classic chicken Caesar salad; or walnut and baby green salad paired with “PBLT” (slow roasted pork belly and beefsteak tomato on grilled sourdough). “Power Lunches” are $16 to $19.

Enjoy them with a new selection of “Zero Proof Concoctions,” such as Hibiscus Cooler (Hibiscus iced tea with kiwi syrup) or Raspberry-Rhubarb Lemonade. All are $6.

Jerry Regester of  C Restaurant + Bar. Photo by John Sutton.

Finally, down in Monterey, Jerry Regester has been appointed executive chef of the new C Restaurant + Bar at the new luxury hotel on Cannery Row, the InterContinental The Clement Monterey. He was most recently executive chef at The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards.

His debut menu includes Monterey Cioppino with mini cheese ravioli, artichokes, tuna, clams, and calamari in a spicy Dungeness crab broth; and fettuccine with smoked sardines, sun-dried tomatoes, and shaved garlic.

C Restaurant + Bar. Photo by John Sutton.

Delectable Dates To Mark on Your Calendar

If you love cheese, then head to Cheese Plus in San Francisco, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. June 21, as the specialty store celebrates its third anniversary with a Summer Solstice Food Festival.

More than two dozen food artisans will be on hand to show off samples of their products. From noon to 2 p.m., cookbook author and San Francisco Chronicle food writer, Janet Fletcher, will sign copies of her latest book, “Cheese & Wine” (Chronicle Books).

A knife sharpening expert also will be on site to sharpen your knives and give advice on how to care for them.

Up in Wine Country, there are a bevy of events to come. First up, the Martini House in St. Helena hosts its fourth annual Riesling Week. June 16-21, the restaurant will showcase Rieslings from Germany, Alsace, and Austria.

A special four-course prix fixe menu will be offered, with each dish paired with a different Riesling such as pan-roasted monkfish wrapped in Hobbs smoked bacon accompanied by a pour of Domaine Weinbach ”Schlossberg” Grand Cru, Riesling, Alsace, France, 2005. The dinner is $115 with the wine pairing; $70 without.

Next up, also in St. Helena, enjoy the third annual Napa Valley Jewish Vintners Celebration. Nearly 40 Jewish vintners from California, as well as Israel, will celebrate “Connecting Our Roots,” June 20-22. Proceeds will benefit Jewish non-profit organizations in the valley.

The three-day event begins on a Friday with a reception at a private St. Helena estate, followed by exclusive winery open houses on Saturday, then a glam gala at the Culinary Institute of America’s Greystone Campus, and ends with Sunday brunch at the Napa Valley Museum featuring guest speaker, the best-selling author, Scott Turow.

Tickets are $650 per person. For more information, call (707) 968-9944 or click here.

And lastly, designer heels and big-name wines? Who can resist that combo? If you can’t, then the fourth annual “Wine, Women and Shoes,” 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. June 29 should be on your must-do list.

The event, at the St. Supery Vineyards and Winery in Rutherford, raises money for women’s causes. Since its inception, more than $2 million has been raised for women’s charities.

Enjoy a fashion show of chic foot candy, wonderful wines, and a live and a silent auction. And don’t forget the “Shoe Guys,” who will be carrying shoes on silver trays so you get a peep of those must-have peep-toe pumps.

Tickets are $150 for regular admission; and $250 for premiere admission, which includes front-row seating at the fashion show. For more information, call Belle Orpilla or Katie Wolford at Planned Parenthood at (925) 676-0505 ext. 5220 at 925-676-0505, ext. 5222; or email info@ppshastadiablo. Also, visit: www.ppshastadiablo.org.

A Mustards Celebration

Before Yountville became home to more Michelin stars per capita than any other city in the world, there was Mustards Grill.

At a time when Yountville wasn’t exactly a dining paradise, Chef-Owner Cindy Pawlycn created the landmark restaurant at the gateway to Wine Country a quarter century ago. There, she deftly began serving her own blend of California cuisine with global influences in a come-as-you-are, laid-back atmosphere.

Pawlcyn went on to become a James Beard award-winning cookbook author, and chef-owner of Go Fish in St. Helena, and Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen also in St. Helena.

Throughout June, Mustards celebrates its 25th anniversary by bringing back a menu of greatest hits, as well as wine selections from its early years. Look for grilled sweetbreads with lemon, parsley, and caper brown butter (1986); tea-smoked Peking duck with 100-almond-onion sauce (1992); and lemon-lime tart with “ridiculously tall brown sugar meringue” (1998).

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