Category Archives: Restaurants

A Marriage of Pasta and More Pasta

My husband, Meat Boy, morphing into Pasta Boy

Husbands.

When my about-to-be husband and I were registering for wedding gifts five years ago, I remember combing through the online catalogues of Williams-Sonoma and Sur La Table for all manner of cooking gadgets I might finally be able to possess in my kitchen.

Good pots and pans. Professional knives. Flatware that actually matched. Gleamingly new baking pans to replace my ancient, beat-up ones. Ahh, it was like the joy of Christmas, only better.

Since we were living in a modest apartment at the time, I tried not to go too crazy because we simply didn’t have the storage space then. But I also tried to heed my friends’ advice to pack my registry with a lot of items to give folks an array of choices when it came to gift-giving.

And then I saw it. It caught my eye and called out to me because I’d never had one or even used one before. It was a pasta machine. Not just any pasta machine, but an attachment to my KitchenAid mixer that would allow me, the carb lover that I am, to make my very own strands of fettuccine.

As I stared at it on my computer screen, I yelled out to my husband, who was in the next room, “Honey, should I put this pasta attachment for the mixer on our registry?”

Him: “A pasta attachment? Are you kidding? We’ll never use it. You know we won’t. It’s just a waste of space.”

Husbands.

Sigh. OK, maybe he wasn’t a killjoy. Maybe he was right. Maybe we’d never really use it. Maybe.

So I clicked on to another page of culinary doodads, leaving the pasta attachment behind.

Fast forward to Christmas last year.

We were at my brother’s and sister-in-law’s house for the holiday. My brother Dale is a marvelous, passionate cook, and on the menu that night, among other things was — you guessed it — homemade spaghetti.

My brother was going to sauce it with good olive oil, crispy bits of bacon, and lovely pungent garlic.

As my brother, Dale, stood poised at the counter beside his KitchenAid mixer, I noticed my husband watching him. Dale combined the ingredients for the dough in the mixer bowl, then gave the dough a brief kneading by hand. Then, he started to feed the dough through the roller attached to the mixer that looked for all the world like an adult Play-Doh pumper machine. The roller flattened the dough effortlessly. Again it went through, and again, each time emerging a little thinner. Then, Dale changed the rollers to a cutting one, and fed the dough pieces through again, as beautiful, long strands pushed out the other end.

My hubby continued to watch my brother doing this. And when my hubby noticed I was watching him as he watched my brother, he said, “Hey, we should get one of those.”

“WHAT?!?” I replied, incredulously, not believing what I had just heard.

“We should get an attachment,” he repeated. “This is so cool!”

I rolled my eyes.

Husbands.

I reminded my hubby of a conversation five years ago. He, of course, did not remember it at all.

Husbands.

And with that, we ordered the attachment online when we got home. And a few weeks later, it arrived on our doorstep.

We took the three attachments out of the box (a roller, a fettuccine cutter, and a spaghetti cutter), read the instructions, and set to work, using the basic pasta recipe included. In went the flour, eggs, water, and olive oil into the bowl to be mixed by the paddle, then the dough hook. I dumped the dough onto a lightly floured counter, and began kneading it until it was smooth and soft.

Dinner time is only two minutes away

Then I handed the dough to my husband to have the first honor. Those are his hands in the photos. It took a little practice — some of the first dough pieces through the roller came out looking like abstract birds of a sort. But hubby soon got the hang of it. And soon, he was having the time of his life.

Husbands.

So why go to all the fuss of making your own fresh pasta when you can pick up a container at most any supermarket or use the ever-handy dried form instead?

Because the taste and texture are sublime. Fresh pasta tastes, well, fresh. You can actually taste the rich egg in the noodles, so much so that you can get by with the simplest of sauces because the noodles themselves have so much flavor and character. Moreoever, the texture is not one dimensional like dried, but rather both more chewy and more tender.

Yes, it does take more time to make your own pasta from scratch. But fresh pasta cooks up in a flash, far faster than dried. Throw it into a pot of boiling water, and it’s done in 2 minutes or less.

I like it with this bold tasting 5-hour pork sugo from San Francisco’s wonderful Perbacco restaurant. Yes, it does take a long time to make the sauce (actually longer than the five hours in the name of the recipe). But most of it is idle cooking. Once you have the ground pork, porcini, tomatoes, sage, juniper berries and whole bottle of red wine in the pot, you leave it alone to simmer until it reduces to a rich, thick ragu. The recipe makes enough so that you can freeze half of it to enjoy another time, too.

Making your own fresh pasta is something you should attempt at least once. (We’ve made it three times this year already.) It’s not only a blast, but incredibly satisfying, too.

Don’t believe me?

Just ask — who else — my husband.

Perbacco’s 5-Hour Pork Sugo

Read more

Victory for Foie Gras Lovers

Two years ago, Chicago became the first city in the United States to ban the sale of foie gras, the fattened livers of ducks and geese considered a true delicacy among gourmets.

But on Wednesday, the city’s alderman reversed that decision by a vote of 37 to 6, and once again made legal the rich, decadent ingredient that’s been around since Egyptian times. Read more about it here.

Courage Beyond Belief

That’s what Chef Grant Achatz exhibted as he fought an unbelievable battle with tongue cancer.

The celebrated chef-proprieter of Alinea in Chicago and one of the true pioneers in this country of molecular gastronomy, Achatz not only fought for his life, but faced the devastating prospect of losing his ability to taste.

Achatz is nothing but a fighter. After all, as a young man, he so desperately wanted to work at the French Laundry in Yountville under the revered Thomas Keller that he sent Keller his resume — for 24 days straight — until Keller hired him. He ended up rising to sous chef, before leaving for Chicago to strike out on his own.

I’ve had the honor of interviewing him a couple times over the years, and there are few chefs as intelligent, articulate, and thought-provoking.

In this month’s New Yorker magazine, D.T. Max profiles Achatz, and tells how the rare cancer remained undiagnosed for more than a year until it grew so massive that Achatz could barely eat; how doctors told him his only option was to have his tongue cut out, a course of action Achatz refused; and how Achatz, the father of two young boys (one named Keller after his mentor), never stopped working through any of this.

It’s a lengthy story, but I promise you’ll read every word of it.

Revamped Osteria Dinners at Quattro Restaurant

Beginning May 16, Quattro Restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel Silicon Valley in East Palo Alto will redo its Osteria dinner series.

The dinners, typically held the second Friday of each month, still will spotlight a winemaker, who will be on hand to discuss the vintages and varietals poured. But instead of a family-style menu, now it will be a plated four-course dinner of rustic Italian cuisine with a seasonal twist each month. In May, that means an emphasis on mushrooms.

The May 16 Osteria dinner will feature Arcadian Winery and its winemaker Joe Davis. Courses by Quattro’s Executive Chef Alessandro Cartumini include terrina of lobster in port poached grape leaf with shaved royal trumpet mushroom and white nectarine salad; and Scottish King salmon tournedo with Hen of the Wood mushrooms.

Price is $85 with wine pairing. If you’re too pooped to drive home afterwards, the hotel offers a special overnight package for two, which includes dinner, valet parking, a deluxe guest room, and breakfast the next morning. Price for that packages starts at $440 per couple.

For dinner reservations, click here or call (650) 470-2889.

Enjoy a Three-Course Beer Pairing

Forget the wine. It’s all about the suds, 6 p.m. May 13 at Monk’s Kettle in San Francisco, when Grant Wood, the brewer for Samuel Adams, hosts a three-course dinner event in celebration of American Craft Beer Week.

Price is $50. For reservations, call (415) 865-9523.

To wet your whistle, here’s the menu:

Appetizer: Mixed green salad with shaved onion, baby frisee, fresh mandarin oranges with a Samuel Adams honey mustard dressing. Paired with Samuel Adams Summer Ale.

Entree:  Samuel Adams brined Niman Ranch Pork chop served with a Tillamook cheddar and scallion potato cake, caramelized brussel sprouts and a Samuel Adams stone ground mustard ale sauce. Paired with Samuel Adams Boston Lager.

Dessert: Chocolate fondant cake served with a Samuel Adams stout chocolate creme anglaise. Paired with Samuel Adams Cream Stout.

« Older Entries Recent Entries »