Category Archives: Restaurants

Dining At Calistoga’s Only Michelin-Starred Restaurant

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A5 Wagyu cap with caviar on a tiny oyster cracker -- one of the first bites at Auro.
A5 Wagyu cap with caviar on a tiny oyster cracker — one of the first bites at Auro.

It took only eight months after opening for Auro at the Four Seasons Resort and Residences Napa Valley to garner a Michelin star, making it the only Calistoga restaurant so honored.

It’s been a long time in coming for Executive Chef Rogelio Garcia, who was born in Mexico City and grew up in the Napa Valley. Last year, he returned to Wine Country to open this fine-dining restaurant after honing his skills at the such revered establishments as the original Cyrus in Healdsburg, the French Laundry in Yountville, Spruce in San Francisco, and Luce in San Francisco.

This marks the first star he’s earned.

And what a triumph it has been, as evidenced by the superlative meal I experienced when I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant earlier this month.

Executive Chef Rogelio Garcia stands underneath his first Michelin star.
Executive Chef Rogelio Garcia stands underneath his first Michelin star.

Pull up to the roundabout driveway of the country-chic resort, and you’ll find the restaurant off to the right. Auro shares the same pristine kitchen as the resort’s casual restaurant, Truss.

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Wellington Wednesdays At Porterhouse

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Craving beef Wellington? Head to Porterhouse on Wednesdays.
Craving beef Wellington? Head to Porterhouse on Wednesdays.

My appetite for red meat comes nowhere close to that of my husband, aka Meat Boy.

But admittedly, I have a weak spot for beef Wellington.

Maybe it’s the retro vibe, the stately tradition, or celebratory nature that ropes me in.

So, I couldn’t pass up a chance of partaking recently when I was invited in as a guest of downtown San Mateo’s Porterhouse, where fittingly, Wellington Wednesdays are de rigueur each week.

Dry-aged beef is a specialty here, as you can tell from the moment you walk through the doors and spy the dry-aging refrigerators loaded with hefty cuts of mid-West beef.

The restaurant does all its own dry-aging of beef.
The restaurant does all its own dry-aging of beef.

Hamdi “Bruno” Ugur has owned this classic, old-school steakhouse since 1987, and you’ll see him greeting guests at tables nightly. Hospitality runs in the family, as his son, Steve Ugur, is not only the director of butchering at Porterhouse, but co-owns Pausa in San Mateo, and the just-opened Sekoya Lounge & Kitchen in Palo Alto.

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Takeout Time: Shawarmaji

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The chicken shawarma arabi style at Shawwarmaji.
The chicken shawarma arabi style at Shawwarmaji.

After taking Oakland by storm, Chef Mohammad Abutaha opened a second location of his Shawarmaji last last year not far from Santa Clara University.

The fast-casual Jordanian street food eatery opened with a more limited menu — just chicken and falafel — than its East Bay sister establishment that also features a shawarma blend of beef and lamb. However, when I visited two weeks ago, I was told that beef-lamb finally will be offered in Santa Clara starting sometime this month, if all goes according to plan. So, get your appetite ready.

For the uninitiated, shawarma is vertically spit-roasted meat, marinated in yogurt and spices, that is shaved to order.

The proprietor.
The proprietor.
Art on the walls.
Art on the walls.

Unlike the Oakland location, the twirling towers of meat aren’t on display behind the counter in Santa Clara, but in the kitchen.

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Feasting At Lily on Clement

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Turmeric fish with rice noodles at Lily on Clement.
Turmeric fish with rice noodles at Lily on Clement.

Spend any time with Chef Rob Lam and it won’t be long before you’re howling with so much laughter that your insides hurt.

He has an outrageous sense of humor, along with a mischievous air about him that my late-mom would have surely described as “looking like he’s up to no good.”

On the contrary, what he’s up to is actually all good at Lily on Clement in San Francisco, where he’s turning out boldly flavored, contemporary Vietnamese dishes.

A couple weeks ago, my husband and I took my aunt to lunch here. While I picked up the tab, Lam added a few dishes on the house that he wanted us to try. Good thing my Chinese American auntie has a hearty appetite!

Chef Rob Lam.
Chef Rob Lam.
Take your pick of bar or table seating inside or a few tables outside.
Take your pick of bar or table seating inside or a few tables outside.

Lam, who also owns Perle Wine Bar in Oakland, opened Lily on Clement during the pandemic, and thankfully, managed to survive. In addition to dinner six nights a week, the restaurant also offers brunch or lunch, Friday through Sunday, which encompasses a la carte options, as well as a $32 two-course prix fixe that includes a specialty beverage, too.

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New Goings-On At Curry Up Now

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West Dilli butter chicken biryani -- one of the new regional biryanis at Curry Up Now.
West Dilli butter chicken biryani — one of the new regional biryanis at Curry Up Now.

If it’s been a moment since you’ve dined at Bay Area-grown Curry Up Now, delicious new happenings are afoot.

First, Bikram Das, formerly of Amber India in Santana Row was hired this spring as corporate executive chef.

Curry Up Now's new corporate executive chef, Bikram Das.
Curry Up Now’s new corporate executive chef, Bikram Das.

Second, the San Jose location did away with counter-ordering and instituted full table service indoors and outdoors.

Three, Das has added new dishes to the menu definitely worth checking out.

After dining as a guest at the San Jose location last week, and wiping a brow, I asked him if he had upped the heat on the dishes.

“Oh, yes!,” he replied with a wink.

Indeed, the food is bolder and spicier than previously. The prices remain incredibly reasonable for the portion sizes, too.

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