A Visit to Saison 2.0

Posted on by 16 comments

Perhaps no restaurant epitomizes today’s necessitated bent toward creative entrepreneurship better than San Francisco’s Saison.

Last summer, much like so many budding tech impresarios of yesteryear,  Chef-Owner Joshua Skenes and sommelier whiz Mark Bright, cloistered themselves away to improvise on what would become a makeshift once-a-week restaurant. Their location wasn’t a garage, but what was once a historic stable that is now the Stable Cafe, which leased its kitchen and rear dining room to the dynamic duo.

From the spacious but far from state-of-the-art kitchen, Skenes turned out elegant, four-star, fine-dining fare served on the best china to jeans-clad diners who sat at bistro-style, slat chairs before cramped, bare wood tables.

It wasn’t long before word spread, important restaurant critics came calling, top food magazines started taking notice, and investors wanted, well, to invest.

The result this summer is version two of Saison — with a lot more waitstaff, a fancy Molteni stove in the kitchen, a large hearth on the redone patio for open-fire cooking, and actual upholstered, cushy banquettes in the dining room the shade of washed denim.

The restaurant has gone from pop-up to permanent. It now serves dinner five nights a week.

It’s a fitting stage for this young chef and young sommelier to show off their talents. Skenes earned rave reviews when he was at Chez TJ in Mountain View, then impressed the likes of Michael Mina so much that the San Francisco mega chef tapped Skenes to open his Stonehill Tavern restaurant in Monarch Beach, CA. Bright also has a Mina connection. At 17, he started working at Mina’s Aqua restaurant in the Bellagio in Las Vegas. On his 21st birthday, he became part of the Bellagio sommelier team, before being asked to become the opening sommelier at Restaurant Michael Mina in San Francisco.

My husband and I had a chance to check out the remodeled space last week, when Skenes invited us in as his guests to celebrate our anniversary, throwing in a few extra dishes for the occasion.

One eight-course menu is offered each night for $98; with an additional $78 for wine pairings. Big spenders can get a real bird’s eye view of the cooking by sitting at the chef’s counter at the back of the kitchen for a personalized 14- to 20-course dinner that runs $300 to $500 per person, depending upon ingredients used.

A dish before it goes out to the dining room.

We sat in the dining room, where Bright was eager to have us try a surprise — his own wine, the first he’s ever made.

Read more

A Cookie Epiphany

Posted on by 24 comments

My new -- and old -- favorite oatmeal cookies.

I love my Auntie Stella for many reasons.

For her love of life and contagious laughter.

For the way she can dissect the games of Nadal and Federer with gusto.

For her uncanny ability to spot and pick out every speck of dreaded green onion or cilantro in any dish she eats.

And for her cherished Christmas presents to me when I was a child.

You see, my Auntie Stella used to work for the company that distributed Snoopy and all the other Peanuts characters collectibles.

Every Christmas, I’d find under the tree, something bearing Snoopy’s likeness — sleep shirts, a coin bank, ornaments or a big plush dog, which I carried everywhere for the longest time.

Along with the Snoopy presents, there was also another regular treat from her under the tree.

It was a festive-wrapped cardboard box, which my aunt would dole out to each of her relatives. Inside were freshly baked Danish cookies from a local bakery that were lined up in rows like tiles. There were probably about five different kinds of cookies inside. But there was one that my oldest brother, Alan, and I always reached for first. They were rectangular ones with rounded edges, and a crisp, nubby texture.

I wasn’t even sure what was in them. I just ate them happily, adoring the way they crumbled in my mouth.

When my aunt retired from her company, which had a partnership with the bakery, the cookie box at Christmas time went by the wayside.

I never experienced those particular cookies again.

Until now.

When I baked a batch of oatmeal cookies using a recipe from “The King Arthur Flour Cookie Companion” (Countryman Press).

There are many variations of oatmeal cookies in this wonderful cookbook. In the past, I’d often used the one for “The Essential Chewy Oatmeal Cookie.” But this time for a change, I decided to see how “The Essential Crunchy Oatmeal Cookie” recipe compared.

Dried white mulberries.

For even more variation, instead of raisins, I substituted dried white mulberries, which I had toted home from Australia. But you also can find them at specialty stores in the Bay Area, including the Spanish Table in Berkeley.  The tiny, dried berries have a wonderful, sweet, date-like flavor.

Read more


A Welcome (and Delicious) Red Wine Stain

Posted on by 20 comments

Red wine stains usually send shivers of horror through hosts and hostesses.

Visions of our best white tablecloths or favorite eggshell-hued couch being ruined for life tend to torment us.

But here’s one case where the staining power of your favorite red varietal is welcomed, indeed.

Take a close look at that plate of pasta above. No, it’s not whole-wheat pasta. In fact, those noodles started out as regular beige-colored strands. Take another look. Go on. You might even notice a bit of burgundy-purple tint to the noodles. It’s not your eyes playing funny tricks on you. And it’s not my meager Photoshop abilities at work, either.

Nope. It’s the magic of Zinfandel wine. An entire 750-ml bottle to be exact.

“Zinfandel Spaghettini with Spicy Rapini” is a genius dish from the new cookbook, “Michael Chiarello’s Bottega” (Chronicle Books). The book, of which I recently received a review copy, is filled with more than 100 recipes for Southern Italian specialties by Chiarello, chef-owner of the wildly popular Bottega restaurant in Yountville.

Read more

Glam Truffle Popcorn and the Winner of the Food Gal $100 Giveaway

Posted on by 19 comments

Ahhhhh. I love the smell of black truffle popcorn in the afternoon.

It smells like pure decadence.

You have to admit there is something a little naughty about dressing up lowbrow popcorn with truffle oil, of all things.

Oh, I know, some of you are so over truffle oil. And the purists out there scoff that many of the ones on the market have no actual truffle in them.

But there’s no denying the haunting quality of the heady aroma of the pricey tuber.

Now, you can enjoy the uptown combo of popcorn and black truffle oil in a convenient kit by San Francisco’s 479° Popcorn.

The “Pop It Yourself Kit” ($45) comes complete with a 32-ounce jar of heirloom popcorn: Shaman Blue, Yellow Topaz, Dakota Black and White Diamond; a 16.5-ounce canister of La Tourangelle Black Truffle Oil (grapeseed oil infused with “black truffle aroma”); 2 packets of Gourmet Black Truffle Sea Salt (made with Mediterranean sea salt and shaved italian black truffles); 10 paper popcorn cones; and instructions.

The "Pop It Yourself Kit.''

The company, named for the precise popping temperature best for popcorn, was founded by husband-and-wife, Andy and Jean Arnold. All of their popcorn products are certified organic and purchased from small suppliers.

After I received a sample kit, my hubby has been begging me to make the popcorn every weekend. Dare I confess that sometimes we even enjoy a huge bowl as our lunch?

The quality of the kernels is unparalleled. There’s a real freshness to them that you don’t find in supermarket ones.

Pop some up, then drizzle on some truffle oil and sprinkle on some truffle salt. I defy anyone who makes a batch not to devour it. Once you get a whiff of the truffle oil hitting the hot, fresh popcorn, you just surrender to it.

Contest Winner(s): Now, for something else a little decadent — a $100 CSN gift card giveaway, good at any CSN online store.

As you recall in this latest Food Gal contest, I asked you to tell me about the best food-related gift you’ve ever received. Your answers touched my heart, made me laugh out loud, and were just priceless to read.

It was hard to pick just one winner. So, I didn’t. Besides the grand prize winner who will receive the $100 gift card, I’m adding second- and third-place winners, who will each receive a culinary-related book from my vast collection.

Thank you all for participating. Without further adieu, here are the winners:

Read more

Take Five with Chef Duskie Estes, On Competing On “The Next Iron Chef” Despite Never Watching the Food Network

Posted on by 23 comments

Tune in to watch Duskie Estes of Bovolo and Zazu restaurants in Sonoma County. (Photo courtesy of the Food Network)

When the third season of “The Next Iron Chef” premieres on Sunday, Oct. 3 at 9 p.m., 10 chefs will compete to win a chance to stand alongside Michael Symon and Jose Garces as the newest Iron Chefs on that smoke-billowing platform.

Among them will be Duskie Estes of Zazu Restaurant + Farm in Santa Rosa, the only Northern California chef in the competition, who is gunning to follow in Cat Cora’s footsteps to become the second female “Iron Chef.”

I had a chance this week to chat by phone with Estes, a former vegetarian who went over to the pork side, who feared she nearly blew the interview when she was first asked to do the show.

A believer in “snout to tail” cooking, the 42-year-old Estes, who grew up in San Francisco, is also chef-owner with her husband of Bovolo in Healdsburg and the Black Pig Meat Co., purveyor of salumi and bacon in Sonoma County. Estes has worked at such top restaurants as Al Forno in Rhode Island, Bay Wolf in Oakland, and Dahlia Lounge in Seattle. She and her husband, John Stewart, who studied salumi making with Mario Batali, met while working together at Etta’s Seafood and Palace Kitchen, both of which are Chef Tom Douglas’ restaurants in Seattle.

Cheer on Estes as she goes up against: Marco Canora (chef and owner of Hearth, Terrior, and Terroir TriBeca, in New York), Bryan Caswell (chef and owner of Reef, Stella Sola, and Little Bigs, in Houston), Maneet Chauhan (chef at Vermilion in Chicago and New York), Mary Dumont (executive chef at Harvest in Cambridge), , Marc Forgione (chef and owner of Marc Forgione in New York), Andrew Kirschner (executive chef of Wilshire in Santa Monica), Mario Pagin (chef and owner of Lemongrass in Puerto Rico), Celina Tio (chef and owner of Julian in Kansas City, MO), and Ming Tsai (chef and wwner of Blue Ginger in Wellesley, Mass.).

Q: You had an Easy-Bake oven when you were growing up. I’m so jealous, as my Mom never let me have one because she thought I’d burn down the house with it. Was this the start of your love for cooking?

A: I was 5 when I got mine. I have a photo of me baking a birthday cake for my grandfather with it. I was very proud of it.

I got one for my older daughter when she was 5. They have so many added safety features on it now. You can’t get in there and get the stuff. It’s less fun now. It was better when it was dangerous. (laughs) So, I let my older daughter, who’s 9 now, just use the real oven instead.

Q: Is Duskie a nickname or your given name?

A: It’s my given name. It’s a testament to my California hippie parents.

Q: Since you grew up in San Francisco, you must have had a pretty foodie household?

A: My father was a scientist, and scientists are all closet chefs. After my parents divorced, my Dad would take me out once a week to a restaurant in San Francisco. So, from the time I was 10, I had a great exposure to what great chefs like Alice Waters and Jeremiah Tower were doing.

I’m also the youngest in the family. Growing up, I was the one who cooked for the whole family. I loved it.

Q: You graduated from Brown University. How did you go from that to cooking professionally?

Read more

« Older Entries Recent Entries »