Dining in Los Angeles, Part I: Splendid Italian Cuisine at Bestia

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The fantastic Margherita at Bestia.
The fantastic Margherita at Bestia.

A server who traded Southern California for Northern California recently remarked to me that they like their restaurants loud in Los Angeles.

He wasn’t kidding.

Having dined at Bavel in Los Angeles two years ago, and its sister restaurant Bestia in Los Angeles a couple weeks ago, I can concur, as these are among the noisiest restaurants where I’ve ever dined. We’re talking a volume where you need to practically shout at your dining companion across the table to be heard. Dine outside at either establishment though, and you will fare a bit better, as the clamor will still be high, but more manageable.

Even so, I will gladly put up with the din to enjoy the superlative Middle Eastern specialties at Bavel, and the exceptional Italian fare at Bestia.

It's always loud and crowded at Bestia.
It’s always loud and crowded at Bestia.

Both restaurants are owned by Chef Ori Menashe and his Pastry Chef wife Genevieve Gergis. They opened Bestia in 2012, followed by Bavel in 2018, and their very casual Saffy’s in 2022.

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The Debut of Wolfsbane in San Francisco

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The start of the tasting menu at the new Wolfsbane.
The start of the tasting menu at the new Wolfsbane.

After San Francisco’s Lord Stanley restaurant closed this summer after 10 years and a Michelin star, husband-and-wife owners Chef Rupert Blease and Carrie Blease could have taken a nice, long break, especially after the tumultuous pandemic led to its reinvention as Turntable by Lord Stanley, a residency for visiting chefs.

Instead, the couple went all in on an ambitious new project. They have teamed with Tommy Halvorsen, chef of the now-shuttered Serpentine to transform that same space into their new Wolfsbane, which opened last week in Dogpatch, just steps from Halvorsen’s Foxtail Catering.

Carrie and Rupert met in the United Kingdom when he was working at Raymond Blanc’s Michelin two-starred Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons and she was an intern. They later moved to New York, where he worked at Michelin three-starred Per Se and she to Michelin-starred Blue Hill, before heading to the Bay Area.

The wolf motif.
The wolf motif.

Wolfsbane is named for a wild plant in ancient folklore that was believed to help prevent werewolves from shape-shifting. To lean into the theme, which at the restaurant is more about offering comfort, there’s a wolf’s head art piece on the wall.

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Pumpkin Spice — But Make It Ice Cream

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Pumpkin spice ice cream to make and enjoy at home.
Pumpkin spice ice cream to make and enjoy at home.

It’s amazing how something so cold can taste so warm.

That’s the delectable dichotomy of “Pumpkin Spice Ice Cream” that’s frigid enough to give you brain freeze yet suffused with the autumnal fervor of cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, cloves, ginger, and mace.

When Adagio Teas sent me samples of its seasonal offerings of Pumpkin Spice tea, Honeybush Pumpkin Chai, and Pumpkin Spice Honey, along with its Pumpkin Pie Spice Blend by its sister spice company, Selefina, I couldn’t wait to enjoy them for an afternoon pick-me-up, as well as in recipes.

The Pumpkin Spice Tea ($3 for a sample bag or $9 for 3 ounces) is a robust black tea with pumpkin spice notes, as well as pretty marigold flowers for a subtle floral note.

The Honeybush Pumpkin Chai ($4 for a sample bag or $10 for 3 ounces) blends the honey taste of herbal, non-caffeinated honeybush tea with the expected cinnamon, cardamom, and ginger, but also cocoa nibs for a touch of earthiness that lends depth. This is a smooth, soothing, and relaxing sip that you’re going to want to enjoy every day this fall and winter. You don’t even need to add milk, if you don’t want to, in order to appreciate its chai-like taste.

A pot of Adagio Pumpkin Spice tea with its Pumpkin Spice Honey.
A pot of Adagio Pumpkin Spice tea with its Pumpkin Spice Honey.

Stir in a touch of Pumpkin Spice Honey into either cup of tea, and the pumpkin spices will come even more to the forefront.

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Welcome Fall With Cornish Game Hen Dijonnaise

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Turn on the oven to warm up the house -- and to enjoy this fantastic Cornish game hen dish.
Turn on the oven to warm up the house — and to enjoy this fantastic Cornish game hen dish.

Summer has turned to fall as fast as the click of an on-off switch.

That means retiring the A/C, and turning on the oven instead without guilt to warm things up.

“Cornish Game Hen Dijonnaise” is a worthy dish to mark that transition.

A succulent dish that roasts in the oven and creates its own lusty sauce in the process, this recipe is from “Feasts on the Farm” (Chronicle Books), of which I received a review copy.

It was written by Tamara Jo Hicks, owner of Toluma Farms in west Marin County, and Jessica Lynn MacLeod, a longtime volunteer there who developed the recipes.

Hicks and her husband bought the 160-acre farm in 2003, restoring the land to raise goats and sheep. In 2013, they began making their own farmstead cheeses under the label of Tomales Farmstead Creamery.

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An Indelible Visit to Aubergine, Carmel’s Only Michelin Two-Starred Restaurant

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Presentation of the smoked scallop at Aubergine.
Presentation of the smoked scallop at Aubergine.

It’s a good bet that if you see anyone dressed up in Carmel-by-the-Sea, a charming beach town and major laid-back tourist draw where shorts and sweatshirts are the norm, they are likely headed to dinner at Aubergine.

Located in the Relais & Chateaux luxury hotel, L’Auberge Carmel, it is the only Michelin two-starred restaurant in this tiny town of 3,000. In fact, since retaining its one Michelin star since 2019, it was awarded its second star last year.

A lot has changed since I last dined there a dozen years ago. Most notably, jewel box of a dining room always felt intimate but even more so since four tables have been removed, leaving all of five now situated around the perimeter. There are two seatings available, 5 p.m. and 8 p.m. If you choose the early seating as we did, you’ll catch the last light on a fall evening through the wall of draped windows.

Aubergine at L'Auberge Carmel.
Aubergine at L’Auberge Carmel.
Awarded a second Michelin star in 2024.
Awarded a second Michelin star in 2024.

Executive Chef Justin Cogley remains the constant, a former professional figure skater with “Disney on Ice,” who glides smoothly through the upper echelons of fine dining, having launched his career at none other than Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago.

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