Learn to Pair Wine With Asian Dishes

This book is your gift with the class.

Riesling? Gewurztraminer? Australian Shiraz? When to serve each of those wines with what Asian dishes?

You’ll learn exactly what wines go with what flavor profiles in Indian, Chinese, Vietnamese and other Asian fare in the 1:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. Oct. 11 class, “Master Food and Wine Pairing” at Le Colonial restaurant in San Francisco. Yours truly has been helping to put together that class that is part of the three-day weekend “Asian Culinary Forum,” a series of classes, tours, workshops and discussions celebrating the vibrant changes in Asian cuisines around the globe.
Edwin Soon Join Edwin Soon, enologist and wine columnist for Time Out Singapore, as he leads you through pairings of varietals with tastes of various classic Asian dishes. Everyone goes home with a copy of his book, “Wine With Asian Food, New Frontiers in Taste” (Tide-Mark Press), which he co-authored with wine teacher Patricia Guy. The class is $85.

To whet your appetite, enjoy this recipe, along with wine pairing recommendations, from the book:

Imperial-Style Grilled Spareribs

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Delicious Happenings

A modern horse sculpture overlooks the hip Urban Tavern dining room. Photo by John Benson.

Urban Tavern, a stylish gastropub, has opened in downtown San Francisco, the newest project by celebrated Chef Laurent Manrique (of Aqua in San Francisco), and restaurateurs Chris Condy of C&L Partners, and Donna Scala of Bistro Don Giovanni in Napa.

With a unique horse sculpture made of tractor, car and motorcycle parts as its centerpiece, the restaurant serves Mediterranean-inspired cuisine. Meats and seafood (grilled conventionally or cooked on the plancha, a flattop grill), with your choice of sauces served a la carte. Also on the menu is grilled lamb ratatouille sandwich ($16), mussels four different ways ($14 to $16), and beef Daube Catalane (priced for 1, 2, or 4 persons at $23, $42, and $79, respectively).

Journey south to Santa Clara on Sept. 20 for Parcel 104’s sixth annual “Wine and Cheese” dinner. Chefs from around the Bay Area will help prepare the multi-course feast, in which every course will feature a different artisan cheese. Author and cheese expert Laura Werlin will be on hand to answer questions. Price is $145.

Parcel 104’s Executive Chef Robert Sapirman also once again will be the lead chef for the seventh annual March of Dimes Celebrity Chefs & Master Vintners Gala Silicon Valley, Sept. 14 at the Fairmont Hotel in San Jose.

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Perfect Wine for Labor Day

Black Eagle Wines

Uncork a bottle of Black Eagle Wines to toast Labor Day in a most apropos way.

Black Eagle Wines is a collection of varietals launched by the field laborers and leaders of the United Farm Workers. It signifies the progress made by the UFW — from its founding by Cesar Chavez to its days of grape boycotts 40 years ago to the pride these days in the harvest and production that respects farm workers’ labor. The grapes for these wines were harvested by workers whose union membership has helped bring better wages and living conditions.

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Take Five With Chef Ron Siegel, On the 10th Anniversary of His Historic “Iron Chef” Triumph

Chef Ron Siegel in the kitchen at the Cliff House in San Francisco

It’s hard to believe that it will be a decade this Labor Day weekend that Chef Ron Siegel made history, becoming the first and only American to ever beat an “Iron Chef” on the original Japanese-version of that wildly popular culinary TV show.

Siegel, now the celebrated chef of the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton in San Francisco, walked into Kitchen Stadium, having never really followed the show, and not fully realizing the magnitude of what was to come. The Japanese also underestimated their American challenger. Siegel had quite the credentials already, having cooked at Aqua in San Francisco and Daniel in New York. The former opening sous chef for the French Laundry in Yountville, Siegel was then the chef of the well-regarded Charles Nob Hill in San Francisco. Even so, the producers of the show feared he wouldn’t even complete any dishes.

But when “Battle Lobster” ended, Siegel had not only crafted five dishes, but food so spectacular that he emerged victorious over Iron Chef Hiroyuki Sakai. His life, and his cooking, was forever changed.

Even today, diners still come up to shake his hand and congratulate him. And the video on YouTube of the epic battle has attracted more than 4,800 viewers.

You might expect Siegel to be an avid fan of today’s crop of reality-TV cooking shows, but you’d be wrong. Still, he came this close to being on the first season of “Top Chef” _ not as a competitor, but as a judge. In the end, though, the producers went instead with Fleur de Lys in San Francisco as the setting for the first challenge.

Fame, apparently, has not gone to his head. The Dining Room’s pastry chef, Alexander Espiritu, who has worked with Siegel for four years, says, “I’ve never worked with any other chef whom I got along with so well. The most important thing I’ve learned from him is to relax. As Ron always says, ‘Don’t worry, it’ll happen.’ ”

I caught up with the 42-year-old, father-of-four last week when he was the guest chef at a special heirloom tomato dinner at the Cliff House in San Francisco. Siegel had me in stitches, chatting about Iron Chef, his years at Palo Alto High School, and of course, tomatoes.

Q: Would it be fair to say that if you had never done “Iron Chef” that your style of cooking might be quite different today?

A: Yes. I think I probably would have matured enough to let other influences in. But I never would have gone to Japan five times like I did, and learned so much about the food and culture there. The passion the Japanese have for food is just incredible.

Q: What do you think when you look back at your Iron Chef battle?

A: I would go back and do that show again in Japan. I wouldn’t do the American version, though. I don’t think it’s as good. That’s what happens when Americans remake things. “La Femme Nikita” is a prime example of that. I just hope they never remake “Babette’s Feast.”

Q: If the Japanese “Iron Chef” show was still around, who would you choose the next time around to battle?

A: Sakai again. He’s amazing. I remember when I first met him. I was in a suit, and he comes in, wearing this warm-up jacket. I don’t know how old he was then, but the guy was ripped. He looked like Rocky Balboa. And he was just so polite.

Q: So you’re not a fan of the newest cooking competition shows?

A: I saw “Hell’s Kitchen” a few times. Can they not pick someone who can cook on that show? I have seen “Top Chef,” but I don’t really watch it. Actually, I like the History Channel. And “The Shield.” It has nothing to do with cooking, but it was a good show! It was so violent and intense.

Q: You were recently on the Discovery Channel’s “MythBusters” show?

A: For all of 10 seconds. Or maybe 20 seconds. I was tasting steak. They wanted me to test whether if you blow up steak, it’ll taste more tender.

Q: Uh, OK. And does it?

A: Well, they were such small pieces, it wasn’t always easy to tell.

Q: So what do you think about chefs being the new celebrities?

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Chocolate With A Techie Pedigree

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That’s what you have in TCHO, the only chocolate factory in San Francisco that actually makes confections from cacao bean to candy. Located on historic Pier 17, the company was founded by former space shuttle technologist, Timothy Childs, who launched it with Louis Rossetto, co-founder of Wired magazine.

TCHO (the name is a combo of “technology” and a nickname for chocolate), is in the process of revamping an old steel molding line from a German castle to make it state-of-the-art with video monitors and computerized control systems. TCHO hopes to open its doors to the public for tours in early 2009.

Meantime, the chocolate is available for purchase online. What makes this chocolate company even more tech-friendly is that it does public beta tests on all its bars. Anyone who wants to shell out $10 for two 50-gram bars in plain brown wrappers can try them and send in their comments before the final formulations are completed.

TCHO uses “common sense” labels to simplify the descriptions of the chocolate bars. The first one, launched earlier this year, was “Chocolatey.”  “Fruity,” a bar that supposes to be reminiscent of fruit without having any really in it, was launched a month ago. And lo and behold, this morning, “Nutty” arrived in my mailbox to try.

I’ll use my patented scale of 1 to 10 lip-smackers, with 1 being the “Bleh, save your money” far end of the spectrum; 5 being the “I’m not sure ‘d buy it, but if it was just there, I might nibble some” middle-of-the-road response; and 10 being the “My gawd, I could die now and never be happier, because this is the best thing I’ve ever put in my mouth” supreme ranking.

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