It doesn’t get nearly the respect it deserves. It seems too plain, too basic, too cheap to be worthy of much attention.
But just consider how integral it is to slaws, salads, soups, corned beef, and so many Russian and Polish staples.
If that doesn’t convince you, surely “Roasted Savoy Cabbage Wedges, Caesar-Style” will.
This incredibly easy dish features all the arresting flavors of Caesar salad — but with roasted cabbage instead.
The recipe is from All About Dinner: Simple Meals, Expert Advice” (W.W. Norton & Company), of which I received a review copy. It’s the fabulous new book by James Beard Award-winning Molly Stevens, a gifted cooking instructor, recipe developer and food writer who lives in Vermont.
Oh sure, it still has half a stick of butter in it.
But there’s no sausage in it. Nor any milk, cream or eggs. It gets moistened with chicken broth instead.
It also gets crunch from a profusion of pistachio nuts. And it gets a grown-up touch with dried figs that have been macerated in sweet white wine overnight. But don’t worry, they don’t come out tasting overly boozy. The alcohol tempers the fruit’s sweetness and adds a rounded depth. If you don’t have the Mucscat or Essensia called for in the recipe, you can improvise. I actually ended up using Canadian icewine I happened to have on hand.
The recipe is from one of my favorite cookbook writers, Molly Stevens. It first appeared in the February 2007 issue of Bon Appetit.