Monthly Archives: March 2009

Tasting Terroir In A Surprising Way

Which rib-eye will be victorious?

Its flavor was straightforward. Perhaps a little mushroomy. Maybe a little gamey. And as I swallowed, the finish lingered moderately so.

Nope, it wasn’t a glass of Pinot Noir that I was tasting blindly.

It was a rib-eye steak, of all things.

It was a steak-off in the comfort of my own home, where I tasted four different rib-eye steaks from four different ranches, without knowing which one was which. If you’re used to just chewing without giving it much thought, tasting meat in this way is an eye-opening, palate-awakening experience. When you concentrate on texture (or body), flavors, and finish, just as you do with wine, you pick up a spectrum of nuances you might otherwise miss.

The box of meat.

Santa Rosa-based Oliver Ranch invites you to experience it for yourself. The company, which sources sustainably raised beef from across the country, has created a tasting pack of steaks, each from a different rancher. Choose from filet mignon, New York strip, top sirloin, or rib-eye packages. Prices start at $79.95.

Cook each steak the same way, then taste, jotting down notes with the handy tasting guide that comes with each kit. At the end, you can peek at the pamphlet to discover where the meat was raised, how it was aged, and what breed it is.

“It’s a way for people to enjoy the terroir and provenance of beef,” says Oliver Ranch founder, Carrie Oliver. “The breed, the growing area, the practices of the rancher and of the slaughterhouse — all those things can make a difference in taste and texture.”

Oliver created the kit in 2007, after noticing that when she tasted beef blindly with friends, they all had different opinions on what they liked best. The kits are now the most popular items the company sells.

“It’s not a hard sell,” she says. “I ask people, ‘You like wine tasting? How about trying a beef tasting then?’

“You should see their eyes light up. And it’s not just men.”

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Pigging Out at Ad Hoc

Ad Hoc's mascot. (Photo courtesy of Ad Hoc)

Satisfy your porky appetite at Ad Hoc in Yountville on March 25, when the restaurant will be featuring whole roasted pigs cooked in a caja china.

Sealed inside a big roasting box, each young pig is cooked for hours underneath a big layer coals. The result is fork-tender flesh and skin so crisp it shatters.

The three-course “Wine & Swine” meal, served family-style, includes greens from the French Laundry’s garden, and dessert by French Laundry Pastry Chef Claire Clark. The price of the dinner is $65, including wines. For reservations, call (707) 944-2487.

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Twelve Chefs Plus Six Farmers

Chef Dominique Crenn of Luce restaurant. (Photo courtesy of the InterContinental Hotel)

Put them together and you get, “A Moveable Feast,” a series of seasonal suppers held at a different restaurant each month to celebrate the relationships between local chefs and local farmers.

The event is the brainchild of Dominique Crenn, executive chef of Luce Restaurant in the InterContinental Hotel in San Francisco.

Each multi-course dinner, which will be prepared by two chefs, will be held the first Tuesday of the month at 7 p.m., beginning March 3, and continuing for the next six months.

Each dinner is $80 per person or $100 with wine. A percentage of each ticket sale will benefit CUESA, the Center for Urban Education About Sustainable Agriculture, which operates the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market in San Francisco. Purchase tickets onlineĀ  here.

Chef Bruce Hill of Picco. (Photo courtesy of Picco)

Here’s the line-up:

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