Monthly Archives: May 2009

Bravo to Bardessono

Roasted striped bass with swiss chard, grapefruit, and balsamic.

Bardessono may be the newest hotel to open its doors in bucolic Yountville.

But it’s quite unlike any other.

This luxurious eco-resort, which opened in February, sits on five acres of gardens and vineyards. The 62-room hotel features a “green spa” that is heated and cooled by an underground geothermal system. Doors, tables, and other furnishings are made of sustainable, hand-milled and reclaimed woods. The hotel hopes to garner a LEED platinum-rating for environmental responsibility.

Granted, not everyone will be able to afford to check into one of the posh suites that start at about $500 a night that feature outdoor rain showers, and bathrooms as large as the main bedroom areas. More folks, however, might be able to splurge on dinner at the resort’s restaurant, overseen by Executive Chef  Sean O’Toole, formerly group operations chef for Michael Mina’s 14 restaurants.

A perfect Tomales Bay oyster on the half shell.

Yours truly was invited recently to try the serene restaurant, done up in soft earth tones, and towering windows that slide open to the main courtyard. On a Sunday night, there were only a handful of diners at the 93-seat restaurant. And that’s a shame because O’Toole’s food was just flawless.

In keeping with the resort’s philosophy, ingredients are sourced locally. There’s even a garden on site, where O’Toole can have his pick from a bevy of herbs, produce, and fruit trees.

Lobster-like spot prawn in a sea of green almond gazpacho.

The chef’s tasting menu, five courses with a couple of amuse bouches to start, is $85 per person. There’s a lightness to O’Toole’s cooking, which marries well with the setting.

Flavors pop and linger on the palate. The skin on the striped bass was crisp as a potato chip, and the flesh meltingly tender. The spot prawn floating in the gazpacho was tender, and meaty like lobster. Its accompanying tiny green almonds (immature nuts that have yet to develop a hard shell) looked like translucent pumpkin seeds, and had a delicate flavor and an almost soft, grape-like texture inside. And the gnocchi, which O’Toole makes in small batches with potatoes put through a ricer, were the most ethereal I’d ever had.

Gnocchi so light it does nearly melt in your mouth.

O’Toole’s wife, Cynthia, the assistant food and beverage director, pairs her husband’s dishes with spot-on wines.

Here’s what I enjoyed:

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Apricots — In the Evening (Part 2)

Do mix fruit with your poultry. Just do it.

I know a woman who turns up her nose at vegetables in baked goods. Sweet potato pie and pumpkin cheesecake would never touch her lips.

No doubt, she’d push her plate away at fruit tucked into savory dishes, too.

If only she knew what she was missing.

Apples with Cornish game hens. Pears with pork. Duck with cherries.

And of course, apricots with chicken.

There’s just something magical about the slightly sweet, softly rounded flavors of fruit in a main dish.

“Sara’s Persian Chicken” perfumes chicken thighs with cardamom, cumin, cinnamon, ginger, saffron, and dried apricots. It’s akin to a classic chicken tagine, but this recipe from “Braises and Stews” (Chronicle Books) by Tori Ritchie takes a little less effort and time.

I love to serve it with couscous. Just follow the directions on the box of your favorite brand of quick-cooking couscous. I like to cook it with chicken broth instead of water. Sometimes I’ll throw in a pinch of saffron, or not. After it’s cooked, and has steamed to a fluffy texture, I’ll add half of a chopped preserved lemon, some minced chives, and a handful of toasted pine nuts. For a more substantial side dish, stir in some canned, rinsed and drained chickpeas, too, if you like.

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Apricots — In the Morning (Part 1)

Memories of dried apricots.

Whenever I bite down on a baked good bursting with orange flecks of sweet-tart, chewy dried apricots, I can’t help but think of family road trips.

It makes me think of a time, ensconced in the back seat of my parents’ car, when I’d get all giddy as we pulled into the parking lot of the original Nut Tree in Vacaville. It was the perfect spot to take a break on trips to Sacramento to visit family friends or to Lake Tahoe, where my family used to rent a cabin in the summer. You could fill up on lunch, beverages, or even take a mini train ride. What it meant most to me, though, was getting my hands on a loaf of apricot nut bread.

You’d find the tea cake loaves stacked on a counter, wrapped in paper and plastic, and tied with a fuzzy string of orange yarn the same color as the apricots. There was a date nut bread, and a blueberry one, too. But my family’s favorite was always the apricot.

We’d buy a loaf — or two — and carry it home, where we’d enjoy a slice for breakfast, dessert, or an anytime snack. It was tender, moist, crunchy with nuts, and bursting with tanginess here and there from the pieces of stone fruit. It’s remains my first — and fondest — memory of dried apricots.

Back then, a car trip was something special, as plane tickets for a working-class family of five were a stretch. I guess that’s why dried apricots inexplicably make me think not only of family, but of adventures and travel, sort of like my own edible Eurail pass.

The Nut Tree closed long ago. Although there’s now a Nut Tree Theme Park, I’ve never stopped at it. And I doubt the nut bread is still part of the repertoire.

Flaky, buttery apricot scones.

You could say that “Apricot Flaky Scones” from Flo Braker’s “Baking for All Occasions” (Chronicle Books) cookbook are not at all like a Nut Tree nut bread. They aren’t, except for the fact that they do have jewels of dried apricot pieces throughout a crispy exterior and a fluffy, buttery interior. They also have nuts — in this case, pistachios. Like my nut bread of yore, the scones also are not overly sweet, making them a nice way to start the day without an over-bearing load of sugar.

Braker gives precise directions for folding the dough into thirds like a business letter, so that the scones end up slightly puffed and layered inside. And they do. She says to cut them into thin, small wedges to create 14 scones. I like my scones a little wider, so I cut the dough into a dozen instead.

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New Menus, New Concept, New Format, and New Private Dining Room

Two new menus tempt at Left Bank brasseries. (Photo courtesy of Left Bank)

Enjoy new menus at the five Left Bank brasseries.

The “TGV Express Lunch,” named after the express train in France, includes soup or salad, plus a choice of a sandwich or a “le plat du chef” — all for $12.50.

For night-owls, the “$21/21h Menu” features a late-night, two-course Parisian-style dinner for $21. It’s available after 9 p.m.

New concept? That’s to be found when the venerable Lark Creek Inn reopens in late May as the Tavern at Lark Creek.

Once regarded as a special-occasion place, the new concept hopes to lure diners in more frequently with a relaxed atmosphere and main courses under $15. Look for new dishes such as Delta crawfish boil ($10.25), free-form duck lasagna with goat cheese and hazelnuts ($13.50), and “Mom’s classic pot roast with root vegetables” ($14.95).

The interior will get a new look, too, with refinished antique tables. And the exterior will get a new herb garden.

Look for a new format at the 15th annual Wine Auction Experience, May 2, hosted by the Livermore Valley Winegrowers Foundation. The event benefits children’s charities such as Kaleidoscope After School Program, Easter Seals Bay Area and the Children’s Skin Disease Foundation.

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Love the Restaurant and Yoga Studio? Then You’re Sure to Love the New Store

Love Chef Jeremy Fox's cauliflower dish? Soon, you'll be able to buy the cute little pot. (Photo courtesy of Ubuntu)

Obviously, I can only be talking about Ubuntu in Napa, the vegetable-based restaurant (they don’t like to call it vegetarian) attached to a yoga studio that has become the darling of every critic around.

Chef Jeremy Fox’s creative, masterful way with veggies has left diners utterly swooning, even devoted carnivores.

In June, you can bring a little taste of Ubuntu home when Ubuntu Annex opens next door to the restaurant and studio in the historical Main Street Building.

Chef Jeremy Fox (Photo courtesy of Ubuntu)

Shop for the same Steelite and Le Creuset dishware used in the restaurant, as well as specialty items, including the darling cast-iron cocottes used for serving Fox’s famous “Cauliflower in Cast Iron Pot.”  Also for sale will be a selection of spices, garden seeds, Rancho Gordo beans, Ridgecut Gristmills grits, and Fox’s signature “Lavender Almonds.”

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