Monthly Archives: April 2013

Tantalizing Turkish-Mediterranean Food at Troya

Flatbread smeared with a thick tomato-minced beef sauce at Troya.

Flatbread smeared with a thick tomato-minced beef sauce at Troya.

 

If you’ve sworn off carbs, Troya in San Francisco will have you falling off the wagon.

Because at this Turkish-Mediterranean establishment, it’s all about the bread.

Hand-made each day. Round, puffy and soft. Almost like focaccia. It’ll do you in. And you won’t regret it in the least.

The must-order Turkish bread with babaganhoush.

The must-order Turkish bread with babaganhoush.

The restaurant has two locations in San Francisco — Clement Street and the Fillmore Street one, which is where I was invited to dine as a guest recently.

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Staff Meals Part II: Danny Meyer’s Roasted Asparagus Gratin

Asparagus spears get broiled with mayo and grated cheese.

Asparagus spears get broiled with mayo and grated cheese.

If there’s any restaurateur noted for impeccable service, it’s New York’s Danny Meyer.

The CEO of Union Square Hospitality Group, Meyer has founded and overseen some of Manhattan’s most acclaimed establishments, including Union Square Cafe, Grammercy Tavern, Maialino, The Modern and many more. He’s even authored a book on the art of hospitality.

So, it’s probably no surprise that Meyer takes staff meals seriously. After all, it’s a way to nourish and care for the folks who work for him.

“Family Table: Favorite Staff Meals From Our Restaurants to Your Home” (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt) showcases just that. The new cookbook, of which I received a review copy, was written by Chef Michael Romano, culinary director for Union Square Hospitality Group, and Karen Stabiner, adjunct professor at Columbia’s graduate school of journalism.

StaffMeals

It includes more than 150 dishes that have been served to staff at his restaurants. The book is arranged traditionally with chapters divided into soups, salads, seafood, drinks, desserts and the like.

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Staff Meals Part I: Wylie Dufresne’s Cashew and Fennel Salad

The wd-50 salad that only the staff gets to enjoy.

The wd-50 salad that only the staff gets to enjoy.

 

You won’t find this salad or any other on the menu at wd-50 in New York.

Not now. Not ever.

That’s because Chef-Owner Wylie Dufresne apparently is not a fan of leafy green salads. Go figure.

You’ll find that amusing insight, along with this recipe for “Cashew and Fennel Salad with Honey Mustard Vinaigrette” in the delightful new book, “Come In, We’re Closed: An Invitation to Staff Meals at the World’s Best Restaurants” (Running Press), of which I received a review copy.

It was written by Christine Carroll, a former line cook, culinary center director of Whole Foods Market Manhattan and founder of CulinaryCorps, a volunteer service organization for culinary professionals, and Jody Eddy, former executive editor of Art Culinaire Magazine and a former cook at Jean-Georges in New York and The Fat Duck in England.

ComeInWe'reClosed

The book showcases the food — not served to the public — but to the staffs of 25 of the world’s most celebrated restaurants including Ad Hoc in Yountville, Au Pied De Cochon in Montreal, McCrady’s in Charleston, and Mugartiz in Spain.

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Charlie Trotter Tribute Dinner at M.Y. China, Sweet Fests Not to Be Missed, and More

Martin Yan (Photo courtesy of the chef).

Martin Yan (Photo courtesy of the chef).

Martin Yan Hosts An All-Star Dinner at M.Y. China

Charlie Trotter, who shuttered his famed eponymous Chicago restaurant last year, will be the special guest of honor at a  6 p.m. June 9 dinner hosted by Martin Yan at M.Y. China in San Francisco.

If that weren’t enough of a draw, the dinner will be created in part by Chef Michael Rotondo, former executive chef of Charlie Trotter’s and now chef de cuisine at Parallel 37 in the Ritz-Carlton San Francisco. Dessert will be made by Yigit Pura, the first winner of “Top Chef: Just Desserts” and now proprietor of Tout Sweet Patisserie in San Francisco. And M.Y. China’s executive chef and master noodle-puller, Tony Wu, will be on hand to show his dough-twirling prowess.

The evening will begin with appetizers and sparkling wines from Domaine Carneros. That will be followed by a seated four-course dinner with wines by the Michael Mondavi Family Estate. A live auction also will be held.

The dinner, a benefit for the James Beard Foundation and the Chef Martin Yan Scholarship, is limited to 100 people. Tickets are $200 per person or $175 per person for James Beard Foundation members. Tickets can be purchased at MyChinaSF.com or by calling (415) 580-3001.

Pastry Chef Yigit Pura. (Photo courtesy of the chef)

Pastry Chef Yigit Pura. (Photo courtesy of the chef)

Dessert First!

Calling all sweet tooths: The Four Seasons Hotel in San Francisco will be the place to be 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. May 5.

That’s when 20 of the Bay Area’s best pastry chefs will ply you with all manner of signature sweets at “Dessert First!,” a benefit for Project Open Hand, which provides meals for people afflicted with breast cancer or HIV/AIDS, or are home-bound and critically ill.

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Brewski Time at Steins Beer Garden & Restaurant in Mountain View

There's a new beer joint in downtown Mountain View.

There’s a new beer joint in downtown Mountain View.

A temple to stir-frying has morphed into a bona fide beer garden in downtown Mountain View.

The former Golden Wok on Villa Street has been transformed into Steins Beer Garden & Restaurant, which opened late last month.

The large space has been broken up into several that includes a beer hall with flat screens, main dining room, two private dining rooms, a main beer garden with a glass two-way fireplace, and a private beer garden.

Owner Ted Kim has helped open Paris Baguette branches in the Bay Area. But Steins is the first restaurant Kim, a beer aficionado who even brews his own at home, has owned. Executive Chef Colby M. Reade has worked in the past at such landmark San Francisco restaurants as Square One and Hawthorne Lane.

Last month, I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant to a pre-opening dinner. Some of the dishes noted here may have been tweaked since then, as Reade said he was still fine-tuning a couple of them.

Hitachino White Ale with pickled veggies for nibbling.

Hitachino White Ale with pickled veggies for nibbling.

House-made pretzels.

House-made pretzels.

The public beer garden.

The public beer garden.

The beer list is extensive with offerings from around the world, including 30 on tap. A fun one to try is the Wells Banana Bread Beer ($7 per glass), which, yes, does smell and taste like a baked loaf of banana bread.

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