Dining At the New Che Fico Parco Menlo

Impeccable seared octopus at Che Fico Parco Menlo.
Impeccable seared octopus at Che Fico Parco Menlo.

For those of us who live on the Peninsula and South Bay, we couldn’t be happier that it’s been a boom time of late for new restaurants opening in this region, including outposts by celebrated San Francisco chefs.

Among the latest is Chef David Nayfeld of San Francisco’s wildly popular Che Fico who opened a sister-restaurant, Che Fico Parco Menlo, in November in Menlo Park.

It debuted at Springline, the splashy new residential-restaurant mixed-use development off El Camino Real.

Last Thursday night, when I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant, the place was buzzing. Nearly every table was filled in the well-appointed, covered and heated outdoor patio that sports tufted banquettes and cozy pillows.

Gingham napkins.
Gingham napkins.

Same with the main dining room, where it was standing-room-only at the bar as patrons waited for tables to open up. A retro soundtrack of Earth, Wind & Fire, Al Green, and the Clash played in the background.

With terrazzo floors, deep red banquettes, and double-decker shelves of potted plants galore, the effect is almost modern Baroque in style. Add to that luminous Murano glass chandeliers chosen for their resemblance to certain pasta shapes, and you have a playful setting that certainly makes a statement.

The restaurant has a large, comfortable outdoor dining patio.
The restaurant has a large, comfortable outdoor dining patio.
The color-drenched interior.
The color-drenched interior.
Murano glass chandelier.
Murano glass chandelier.

The lighting is on the dimmer side, and with the type on the menu printed in thin font, you may be tempted to turn on the flashlight on your phone to read it more easily, which I saw a few people actually do.

A lot has been said about the restaurant’s 10 percent dine-in fee, which Nayfeld added in Menlo Park and San Francisco in order to more equitably pay employees. It is not necessarily considered an automatic gratuity, so diners can weigh tipping on top of that.

If that gives you sticker shock, just know that the dishes are meant to be shared family-style, and they are generously sized.

Blood Orange Spritz.
Blood Orange Spritz.

A Blood Orange Spritz ($20), garnished with a green olive and big slice of orange, will transport you to the Amalfi Coast with one sip. It’s light and refreshing, a blend of blood orange juice, blood orange Mommenpop made with Barbera rosé grapes, bergamot liqueur, and soda.

The Menlo Park location features some dishes not available at the original San Francisco restaurant, including the Parmigiano fritti ($16). A treat for true cheese lovers, this saucer-like pinwheel creation comes to the table hot, crispy, and showered with finely grated Parmigiano. Made with delicate choux (cream puff dough) and plenty of 24-month-aged Parmigiano, this fried specialty reminded me of the epitome of the world’s best hash brown in texture — deeply crunchy all over, then tender and a little chewy inside. The taste is sharp, nutty, and salty in the best of ways.

The super cheesy Parmigiano fritti.
The super cheesy Parmigiano fritti.
A brimming bowl of Insalata Invernale.
A brimming bowl of Insalata Invernale.

Insalata Invernale ($24) brought a bountiful bowl of radicchio, castelfranco, and red endive leaves, their bitterness contrasting nicely with pickled persimmons, golden beet slices, and toasted hazelnuts in a balsamic vinaigrette with a flurry of Parmigiano overtop.

Pizzas shine here. Made with naturally fermented dough, the crust is a marvel. It has a delicious fermented tang to it. But more than that, it has an unexpected lightness to it. The center is stretched quite thin, giving way to a much thicker, puffy, delightfully chewy-tender rim that sports some dramatic air holes.

The dreamy Amatraciana pizza.
The dreamy Amatraciana pizza.

The Amatraciana ($29) is adorned with sweet San Marzano tomato and Che Fico’s own guanciale, along with plenty of black pepper and Pecorino. Take a bite and it’s at once a little fatty, salty, spicy, tangy, and plenty porky sweet. The edges of the thinly sliced cured pork jowl get crispy while its fat takes on a melty quality almost like lardo.

Pasta are all made in-house. The gargati $34) are chewy, ridged short pasta tubes that are tossed with a milky tasting pheasant ragu with rich dark meat poultry taste, and finished with Parmigiano Reggiano.

Gargati with pheasant.
Gargati with pheasant.
Gnochetti sardi.
Gnochetti sardi.

The gnochetti sardi ($34) are firm, rolled, ridged shells tinged with saffron in an herbaceous sausage ragu and San Marzano tomatoes and showered with Pecorino.

The seared octopus ($45) is one of the best I’ve ever had — wonderfully smoky tasting, with the edges of the tentacles crisped up, and the flesh so plump and tender. It was dressed with an herby and slightly spicy tomatillo salsa verde and came with creamy little potatoes.

Two come per order of panino gelato.
Two come per order of panino gelato.

Desserts are mainly variations on soft serve. The panino gelato ($12) is perfect for sharing because it’s comprised of two Italian-style ice cream sandwiches. Thin, delicate pizzelle cookies bookend a filling of milky, floral tasting fior di latte gelato that gets garnished with salted toasted pistachios.

The check arrives with a last bite of chewy, nutty cookies.

Chewy Italian cookies.
Chewy Italian cookies.

The dining scene may be awash in Italian restaurants, but Chef Fico Parco Menlo is definitely a newcomer worth checking out. In late February, it’s also expected to open the nearby Che Fico Mercato, which will sell house-made sauces, frozen pastas, sandwiches, coffee, and gelato.

More: My Story on the Sport that Chef David Nayfeld Does In His Off-Hours

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2 comments

  • While I won’t deny that the food pix here look great, I had one of the worst dining experiences ever at Che Fico (SF) just last year. Incredibly poor service. They literally forgot to put in our order, and our server ignored us for 20 minutes , then lied about forgetting to submit the order. The manager eventually showed up and acknowledged the mistake, but thought giving us a free appetizer somehow made everything ok (it absolutely did not). On top of the very high prices, and obligatory service charge, it was not good, and we vowed never to return. Sounds like you had a far better experience, but there are too many great places to eat in the Bay Area to take another chance at Che Fico (or any of their new locations).

  • Hi Lonni: Oh, no! I am so sorry to hear about your experience at the SF location. Yes, lying about the situation was an awful decision on their part. And more should have definitely been done to make it up to you. I think restaurants forget that diners have long memories and that instances like this can result in loss business forever.

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