We love cupcakes.

We also like to bake them.

But often, we are faced with a cupcake conundrum: recipes that produce 12, 18 or 24, when all we really want are a few of them.

Thank goodness for America’s Test Kitchen.

While other small-batch cookbooks come at you with recipes for modest amounts of cookies, doughnuts or tartlets, its new “Baking for Two” actually has a recipe for “Vanilla Cupcakes” that makes four of them. Yes, perfect for a family of four, a couple who wants to indulge in seconds, or a close-group of besties to share together.

The cookbook has more than 200 recipes for bakers who want to indulge their passion but don’t want to bake themselves into a frenzy.

There are both sweet and savory temptations, including “Coffee Toffee Cookies” (a dozen), “Cherry Pecan Crumble” (feeds 2), “Individual Chocolate Souffles” (makes 2), “Jamaican Beef Patties” (makes 2), and “No-Knead Whole-Wheat Dinner Rolls” (makes 4).

Cake flour gives these cupcakes a tender, delicate crumb. Melted butter means you don’t have to wait for butter to soften at room temperature. Buttermilk adds richness and moisture. I actually used sour cream instead that I already had handy in the fridge, and it worked perfectly as a substitute.

Divide the batter among four wells in a standard muffin tin or four 4-ounce ramekins. After baking, allow them to cool completely before frosting.

There may only be four cupcakes, but the “Vanilla Frosting” recipe certainly doesn’t skimp on the butter. Ten tablespoons get whipped in a stand mixer with confectioners’ sugar, a splash of heavy cream, a pinch of salt, and a drizzle of vanilla extract.

It may seem like an excessive amount of time to beat the frosting for a final 5 minutes, but this is key to making a fluffy, absolutely smooth and creamy one.

Divide the frosting among the cupcakes, using a piping bag or offset spatula to cover the tops. Serve as is or add sprinkles, sliced nuts or just-picked nasturtiums from the garden, as I did.

The cupcakes taste nostalgically of your favorite vanilla birthday cake as a kid.

But just think: You don’t need a special occasion to enjoy them. And you don’t need to worry about what in the world to do with a too-big batch of them.

Vanilla Cupcakes

(Makes 4 cupcakes)

3/4 cup (3 ounces) cake flour

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/8 teaspoon baking soda

1/8 teaspoon table salt

1/4 cup (1 3/4 ounces) sugar

1 large egg, room temperature

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

1/4 cup buttermilk, room temperature

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 cup Vanilla Frosting (recipe follows)

Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 325°F. Line 4 cups of muffin tin with paper or foil liners.

Whisk flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together in bowl. Whisk sugar, egg, and melted butter in medium bowl until smooth. Whisk in buttermilk and vanilla until thoroughly combined. Sift flour mixture over egg mixture in 2 additions, whisking gently after each addition until few streaks of flour remain. Continue to whisk batter until most of lumps are gone (do not overmix).

Using dry measuring cup or ice cream scoop, divide batter evenly among prepared muffin cups. Bake cupcakes until golden brown and toothpick inserted in center comes out clean, 18 to 22 minutes, rotating muffin tin halfway through baking.

Let cupcakes cool in muffin tin on wire rack for 10 minutes. Remove cupcakes from muffin tin and let cool completely on rack, about 1 hour. Spread 3 to 4 tablespoons frosting over each cooled cupcake and serve.

Vanilla Frosting

(Makes about 1 cup)

10 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

1 1/4 cups (5 ounces) confectioners’ sugar

Pinch table salt

1 tablespoon heavy cream

3/4 teaspoon vanilla extract

Using stand mixer fitted with paddle or using hand mixer, beat butter at medium-high speed until smooth, 30 to 60 seconds. Add sugar and salt and beat at medium-low speed until most of sugar is moistened, about 45 seconds. Scrape down sides of bowl and beat at medium speed until mixture is fully combined, about 15 seconds longer; scrape down bowl. Add heavy cream and vanilla and beat at medium speed until incorporated, 10 to 30 seconds. Increase speed to medium-high and beat until light and fluffy, 4 to 5 minutes, scraping down bowl once or twice during mixing.

Variations:

For coffee frosting, add 2 teaspoons instant espresso powder or instant coffee powder to cream.

For coconut frosting, add 1 teaspoon coconut extract to cream.

For orange frosting, add 3/4 teaspoon grated orange zest and 2 teaspoons orange juice to bowl with butter.

From “Baking for Two” by America’s Test Kitchen

More Recipes for Small Bakes: Peanut Butter Cup Cookies (Makes 6)

And: Egg Custard Tarts (Makes 4)