Raise A Toast to Tuscan Braised Drunken Chicken
With folks tightening their wallets these days and tourism once again peaking so high in Europe that locals are out protesting, a trip to Italy might not be in the cards this year.
However, you can opt for a taste of Tuscany in the comfort of your own home instead, thanks to the new cookbook, “20 Amici 40 Ricette” (The Collective Book Studio), of which I received a review copy.
Translated from Italian to English as “20 friends, 40 recipes,” the book was written by John Bersani, a teacher, writer, and second-generation Italian-American who has lived for more than 20 years in a small hilltop town in central Tuscany when he isn’t splitting his time in Colorado.
It is as much travelogue as cookbook as Bersani introduces you to some of his favorite people and most cherished restaurants in the region. In fact, the recipes are organized not by the usual category of dish but by friend, be they forager, fish monger, chef, or restaurateur.
Knowing the people and places behind such recipes as “Penne with Sausage and Tuscan Black Kale,” “Slow Braised Beef Shoulder in Chianti Wine,” “Zucchini Gratin,” and “Raspberry Bread Pudding” makes them all the more enticing.
“Braised Drunken Chicken” is one of those effortless recipes with fantastic results that you’re sure to return to again and again. It’s a signature at the family-owned I’ Galletto ‘Briaco Trattoria in Gaiole in Chianti that Bersani frequents.
Split a chicken into halves after removing the backbone. Then marinate in a mixture of garlic, fresh rosemary, a sliced lemon, olive oil, and white wine. If you can let it hang out that way overnight, all the better.
When ready to cook, sear the chicken halves on both sides on the stovetop, then add more white wine. Cover the pot and allow to simmer gently for about 40 minutes or so.
During this time, a wonderful amalgamation happens, as the chicken juices meld with the white wine and aromatics to essentially create its own pan sauce.
By the time the chicken is cooked through, the sauce should have thickened to an almost syrupy consistency. If not, just uncover the pot and allow the sauce to reduce more.
Let’s face it: There are times when a marinade doesn’t contribute all that much flavor. This is not one of those times.
In fact, this chicken comes out incredibly tender and moist — even the oft-problematic white meat that’s prone to drying out. There is a surprising depth of flavor to not only the chicken, but the sauce. The poultry taste is deeply concentrated. You also taste the lemon, rosemary, and a buttery, caramelized sweetness from the garlic.
In short, it’s a chicken lover’s dream of a dish.
Braised Drunken Chicken (Galletto ‘Briaco)
(Serves 4 to 6)
1 (4- to 6-pound) whole chicken, backbone removed and halved
Kosher or coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 garlic cloves, crushed
4 sprigs fresh rosemary, divided
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more as needed
2 cups dry white wine (something you’d be happy to drink)
1 lemon, cut into 1/2-inch slices
Season the chicken halves generously with salt and pepper. Place the chicken in a large plastic or nonreactive container that has a cover. Add the garlic, 2 sprigs of the rosemary, 1/2 cup of the olive oil, 1 cup of the white wine, and the lemon slices to the container. Mix well with your hands to thoroughly coat the chicken halves. Cover tightly and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or preferably overnight.
Remove the chicken from the refrigerator about 2 hours before you plan to begin cooking to bring it up to room temperature.
Remove the chicken from the marinade and wipe clean with paper towels.
In a skillet or saute pan large enough to accommodate the two chicken halves in one layer, heat the remaining 1/4 cup of olive oil over medium-high heat until it begins to shimmer.
Add the chicken halves to the pan, skin-side down, and cook until the skin takes on a deep golden-brown color, 5 to 7 minutes. Flip the chicken halves and continue cooking for another 2 minutes.
Add the remaining 1 cup of white wine to the pan, allow it to come to a boil, and scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to loosen all the caramelized bits. When all the alcohol in the wine has burned off and you can no longer smell the vapors coming off the pan, adjust the heat and cover the pan.
Cook at a very low simmer for about 40 to 50 minutes. Check the pan every 10 minutes or so to make sure there is still some liquid in the bottom of the pan. You want enough liquid to continue the cooking and to eventually create a syrupy sauce for the finished dish, but not so much liquid that the final result will be water. If necessary at any point, add 2 to 3 tablespoons of water to the pan to keep things from becoming too dry. Conversely, if there seems to be too much liquid in the pan, especially toward the end of the 40-minute cooking time, remove the lid from the pan and continue cooking. This should help slowly reduce the amount of liquid in the pan. Turn off the heat and let the chicken rest in the covered pan for 10 to 15 minutes.
Transfer the chicken halves to a warmed serving platter, spoon the pan sauce over the top, and drizzle with a bit of olive oil. Nestle the remaining 2 sprigs of fresh rosemary in beside the chicken and serve immediately family-style.
Wine Pairing: Rocca di Castagnoli Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG “Poggio A’ Frati” 2018. This Chianti Classico riserva, produced just 10 minutes away from Sabatino and Jenni’s trattoria, I’ Galletto ‘Briaco, by one of Gaiole’s signature producers, is a gutsy counterbalance to the wine and herb-marinated chicken.
Adapted from “20 Amici 40 Ricette” by John Bersani
More Tuscan Recipes to Enjoy: Chickpea Pancake
And: Chickpea Papparadelle with Chickpeas, Rosemary, and Garlic by Missy Robbins
