Watching Over Milk-Braised Pork Loin

Lean pork loin gets cooked gently in milk -- a lot of it.
Lean pork loin gets cooked gently in milk — a lot of it.

Pork loin is a very lean cut. Good news if you’re watching your calories. But bad news if you’re not careful with the cooking and turn it as dry as shoe leather.

“Milk-Braised Pork Loin” gives you a leg up on that by adding milk — a lot of it — to the equation.

I’ve come across many recipes like this, in which the pork loin is submerged in milk to cover it, then simmered until tender. Those recipes always end with the milk reducing and curdling, a natural byproduct that leaves tasty yet lumpy curds that don’t make for the prettiest presentation.

This recipe differs in that the pork is simmered so gently that the milk never breaks, and remains completely liquid.

It’s from “La Cocina Vasca” (Ryland Peters & Small), of which I received a review copy.

The cookbook, which focuses on recipes from the Basque Country, was written by Madrid-born Maria Jose Sevilla, a former lecturer at the Culinary Institute of America, and writer for the award-winning BBC series “Spain on a Plate.”

Inside, you’ll find recipes for dishes such as “Spring Vegetable Stew from Tudela” (made with artichoke hearts, fresh peas, asparagus, and fava beans), “Anchovies Cooked in Paper,” “Roasted Shoulder of Lamb Stuffed with Anchovies and Capers,” and “Basque Milk Pudding with Maple Syrup & Figs.”

This pork loin recipe involves few ingredients, but requires some vigilance and patience.

Sear the pork loin, then pour in enough milk to cover, along with bay leaves, white pepper, and salt. Bring the milk to a boil, then turn down to a simmer, stirring frequently.

Adding milk to cover.
Adding milk to cover.
The amount of milk in the pot after the pork is done.
The amount of milk in the pot after the pork is done.

You want a very gentle simmer so as not to curdle the milk. Me? I was afraid to turn up the heat too much, so my pork took an additional 25 minutes (or 70 minutes total simmering time) to cook through to an internal temperature close to 145°F.

Slice the pork and serve. It’s very tender tasting. I thought it needed a sprinkle of sea salt, to finish it, though.

Spoon on some of the milk sauce. It’s still quite thin, but adds another nice level of moistness to the pork.

As you can tell from the photos above, only a small amount of the milk evaporated in the cooking. You’re left with quite a bit — a lot more than you’ll need to serve this pork.

Don’t waste the milk, especially not during these times. Use it to make mashed potatoes to serve with the pork. Or save to make a chowder or mac ‘n’ cheese.

The pork slices can be enjoyed warm or cold.
The pork slices can be enjoyed warm or cold.

Milk-Braised Pork Loin (Lomo de Cerdo Con Leche)

(Serves 6)

2 tablespoons Spanish extra-virgin olive oil

2 3/4-pound boneless pork loin in one piece

2 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole

Whole milk (enough to cover the pork)

2 bay leaves (fresh or dried)

A pinch of ground white pepper

A pinch of salt

To serve:

Buttery mashed potatoes or steamed white rice

Grilled or steamed green vegetables

Heat the olive oil in a deep saucepan. Add the pork and sear the meat until it takes on some color. Add the garlic cloves to the pan and cook for an additional minute. Remove and discard the garlic.

Pour in enough milk to cover the pork, then add the bay leaves and sprinkle in the white pepper and salt. Bring the milk to the boil, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring frequently, for about 45 to 70 minutes or until the milk has reduced to a very creamy texture and turned darker in color. Do not overcook the milk sauce or the milk solids and liquid will split, looking rather like ricotta.

When ready, cut the pork into thick slices and serve either hot or cold on buttery mashed potatoes or steamed white rice, and smothered in the creamy sauce. Serve some grilled or steamed green vegetables alongside, if you like.

Adapted from La Cocina Vasca by Maria Jose Sevilla

Another Pork Loin Recipe to Enjoy: Pork Loin with Oranges by Chef Charlie Palmer

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