When I spied this recipe for “Xi’an Famous Pizza” that was inspired by the mouth-watering Chinese food served at the family-owned New York institution, Xi’an Famous Foods, one thought came to mind immediately:

Where’s the cumin?

This pizza was originally a collaboration between Paulie Gee’s pizzeria in Brooklyn, which created this popular lamb-topped pizza with Xi’an Famous Foods’ spicy, umami bomb chili crisp drizzled over the top.

But anyone like myself who’s ever dined at one of the locations of this casual, no-frills Chinese restaurant surely can’t forget the deep earthy warmth of the cumin-scented lamb that adorns its hand-ripped noodles or gets stuffed burger-style into tender flatbread.

So, when I made this pizza, there was no way I was going to leave out the cumin.

The recipe is from “Pizza From the Heart” (Union Square & Co.), of which I received a review copy. It was written by Paulie Gee and Mary Ann Giannone, founder’s of Paulie Gee’s, which now boasts locations in Chicago, Baltimore and Ohio, too. It was written with assistance from food writer, Sarah Zorn.

The book includes 100 recipes for three different types of dough, along with specialty pizzas (many with whimsical names) to make with them. They include the “Ricky Ricotta” (with sweet Italian fennel sausage, Pecorino-Romano, and dollops of ricotta), “Brian DeParma” (with pureed tomatoes and plenty of Parmigiano Reggiano), and the “Barry White” (a no-tomato cheese modeled after cacio e pepe).

There’s also much more than pizza, including recipes for dishes that pair nicely with them, such as “Chilled Watermelon Soup,” “Jack Daniel’s Penne,” and “Paulie’s Vegan Limoncello Blondies.”

The “Xi’an Famous Pizza” has a foundation built on a “NY-Style Dough.” It’s made with instant yeast, water, salt, a splash of olive oil, and bread flour. It needs to proof for at least 24 hours or up to 48 hours.

While the “NY-Style Dough” recipe makes enough for two pizzas, the ingredients to top the “Xi’an Famous Pizza” are given for a single one. For ease, I doubled the toppings in the recipe below so it makes enough for two pizzas.

The quantity of ground lamb listed in the recipe was given by volume instead of weight. But the 3/4 cup of ground lamb will equate roughly to about 1/2 pound. So, to make two pizzas, you’ll need about 1 pound of ground lamb. And if you like it really meaty, like say, my husband (aka Meat Boy), you can go wild with even more.

All you need do is saute the lamb in a pan. However, you know that I added ground cumin to it, along with a pinch of salt, which I felt it needed.

Take one dough ball, stretch it out, cover with fresh spinach leaves, followed by the lamb, then finally add your favorite chili crisp and a little olive oil. Pop into a blazing hot oven and bake until crisp. Repeat with remaining dough ball.

The crust bakes up crispy on the bottom with a nice chew to it. Because it’s made entirely with bread flour, the texture is more puffy and hearty like bread. It doesn’t necessarily have the characteristic hills and valleys but is more one-dimensional. Next time, I might swap out some of the bread flour for 00 flour to add a little more delicacy.

The flavor is phenomenal, what with the meaty lamb suffused with heat plus a tickling numbing quality from the chili crisp.

And the cumin?

Paulie Gee, himself, wrote to me after the fact to tell me he leaves it out because he doesn’t care for it. Fair enough.

For me? I think it’s absolutely indispensable, and I rest my case.

Xi’an Famous Pizza

(Makes two 12-inch pie)

1 1/2 cups ground lamb (about 1 pound — or more if you like it meatier)

1 to 2 tablespoons ground cumin or to taste (optional)

Pinch of salt, or to taste

2 rounds (NY-Style Dough — See Recipe Below) or your favorite pizza cough (about 1/2 pound)

Semolina, for dusting

4 cups baby spinach

8 heaping tablespoons Chinese chili crisp

3 tablespoons olive oil

Place a pizza stone or steel on the floor of your oven. Preheat the oven to 550°F or as high as it will go for 45 minutes.

In a medium skillet, cook the lamb over high heat, stirring until just cooked through, about 1 minutes. Add in the ground cumin and salt, and stir until well combined, another 30 to 40 seconds.

Place the dough on a pizza paddle that’s been dusted with semolina and stretch to about 12 inches. Scatter the spinach evenly over the dough, followed by the cooked lamb. Drizzle with the chili crisp, followed by the olive oil.

Use the paddle to transfer the pie to the pizza stone or steel on the oven floor. Bake for 6 to 8 minutes, until the crust is evenly brown and crisp. Remove from the oven, slice, and serve. Repeat with remaining dough round.

NY-Style Dough

(Makes enough dough for two 14-inch pies)

1 1/3 cups warm water (70°F)

1/2 teaspoon instant yeast

4 cups (530 grams) bread flour, such as King Arthur

1 1/2 teaspoons fine sea salt

2 1/4 teaspoons olive oil, plus more for greasing

Semolina, for dusting

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, combine the water, yeast, and flour and mix on low speed for 4 minutes. Slowly add the salt and mix for 2 minutes more, until the dough is shiny. Slowly add the oil and mix for 4 minutes. Raise the mixer speed to high and knead for 1 minute, until the dough pulls away from the sides of the bowl.

Transfer the dough to a lightly oiled work surface. Divide the dough into two equal pieces (they should weigh about 430 grams each). Shape the dough into balls and lightly coat the top of each ball with oil. Place each ball of dough in a separate bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 24 hours or up to 48 hours. (To freeze for later use, wrap each ball of dough tightly in plastic wrap and place in a freezer bag. Freeze for up to 6 months. Before using, defrost the dough in the refrigerator overnight, then let it warm up to room temperature for about 4 hours. Timing will vary based on the temperature in your kitchen, so be sure that it’s thawed completely before using.)

Remove the dough from the refrigerator 3 hours before baking and let it sit at room temperature. About 45 minutes before baking, place a pizza stone or steel on the oven floor and preheat the oven to 550°F or as high as it will go.

Lightly dust a wooden pizza peel with semolina. Stretch one ball of the dough into a 14-inch round on top of the prepared peel. Top and bake. Repeat with the remaining dough, if desired.

Adapted from “Pizza From the Heart” by Paulie Gee and Mary Ann Giannone

More Lamb and Cumin Love: Wok-Fried Lamb with Cumin from David Tanis

And: Hand-Torn Noodles with Cumin Lamb