In these economic times, bargain bliss is hard to come by.

But look to the new downtown San Jose restaurant Strata, set to open on Wednesday, and you will unexpectedly find it.

Relatively speaking.

After all, when’s the last time you enjoyed an upscale 5-course prix fixe dinner for $75? With a wine pairing for all of $40 for four different pours?

It’s not merely food plopped on a dish, either, but thoughtfully executed and plated with intention.

I had the opportunity to enjoy a sneak peek and taste over the weekend when I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant.

Strata, pronounced “Stray-tuh,” is a geological term that refers to the layers of rock or sediment that form over time. It’s meant to evoke the layers of cuisine, hospitality, and experience that make up the restaurant, says co-owner Dan Phan.

It could also refer to the multi-faceted establishments that Phan, along with co-owners George Lahlou and Johnny Wang, have successfully launched in downtown San Jose over the past few years. Their MO Hospitality is the driving force behind bars Paper Plane, MINIBOSS, Still O.G. and Alter Ego, and the restaurant Eos & Nyx.

Like Eos & Nyx, Strata offers an upscale experience, but in this case, a bifurcated one.

With walls repainted in warmer tones of milk chocolate and hot cocoa, the former Rollati Ristorante space has been reinvigorated with a more inviting ambience. In the expansive bar-lounge, patrons can order from an a la carte menu, while the dining room is strictly prix fixe.

The executive chef is Robert Mendoza, who cut his teeth in the notable kitchens of Michelin three-starred Atelier Crenn in San Francisco, the late Michelin three-starred Manresa in Los Gatos, and the late Chez TJ in Mountain View.

That prix fixe menu will change every 6 to 8 weeks, with the price point kept at $65 to $75, explained operating partner Ron Bonafacio. This rare bang-for-the-buck prix fixe immediately reminded me of the wonderful Trestle restaurant in San Francisco, where a very fine four-course prix fixe can be had for $52. That’s not coincidental, either, as Bonafacio mentioned that Trestle’s model was one from which they took inspiration.

If you’re used to splurging $125, $200, $300 or more for a multi-course night on the town, you will be pleasantly surprised at what this $75 one manages to include.

There are the little touches: the presentation of the small expanding towels that unfurl when water is poured over them at the table to cleanse your hands at the start of the meal; and the personalization of your name discreetly printed on your menu.

MO Hospitality is known for its cocktail bars, so start with a specialty one such as the “Chrome & Silk” ($19), a bracing tart blend of blanco tequila, Seville orange fortified wine, shiso, agave, and plenty of lime. As with a margarita, the glass was rimmed with salt, plus umeshu plum powder.

On the opening prix fixe menu, dinner begins with canapes of spicy al pastor pork tortas with pineapple salsa, a little like pulled pork-filled choux cream puffs; and tiny tuna tostadas spiced up with salsa macha chorizo XO sauce and garnished nicely with frizzled leeks.

The second course may have been my favorite of the night: rockfish crudo with the clean tasting fish slices prettily arranged in a row and topped with crispy rice pearls for a hit of crunchiness. Crudos demand acid, and this one delivered big-time with a racy aquachile seasoned with white soy, and serrano rings. You can opt for the caviar supplement, as I did, for an additional $25.

My husband went with the wine pairing, and the wine chosen for the crudo turned out to be a 2024 Gaspard Touraine Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley in France. It’s destined to be one of my new favorites for its lemon verbena and lemon balm notes, along with a big backbone of minerality and acidity.

Since the next course offered two choices, albeit with a supplement, we went with one of each: The chicken-fried morels (a $15 additional cost) were more delicately crisp than I thought they would be rather than heavily battered. They were arranged over creamy chicken mousse, airy yam espuma, verjus beurre monte and shallot kimchi, giving the nutty, earthy morels a hit of pickly sharpness here and there.

The other choice was supple, hand-formed tortellini folded around a filling of ricotta and dressed with herb oil. For $15, you can add shaved black truffle for a luxurious touch that won’t break the bank.

For the entree, there are three choices. I went with the moist and flaky rockfish, pan-seared and garnished with squash blossoms, squash veloute, shaved squash, peppery-tasting nasturtium pesto, and a touch of chili oil.

My husband’s prime NY steak (a $25 supplement) arrived rosy, tender, and already sliced, neatly arranged in the center of the plate, then ringed artfully with garlic chives, cipollinis and crunchy garlic chips.

Dessert offers up two choices: a tropical passionfruit-flavored soft serve swirled high in a parfait glass and topped with toasted coconut and crunchy brown butter cookie crumbles; and a fabulous chocolate hazelnut entrement shaped like a ho ho, covered in chocolate and sliced cherries, and hiding the creamiest chocolate-hazelnut mousse.

The check is presented with wrapped caramels, another thoughtful little touch.

I’m already excited to see what happy surprises await in the next prix fixe that comes after this one. Because bargain bliss like this doesn’t come around often, and should be appreciated.