Category Archives: Chefs

Glam Dining For A Little Less: Lunch at Michael Mina in San Francisco

Pasta of my dreams -- for lunch at Michael Mina.

I’ve always fantasized about what it must be like to be one of those ladies who lunch.

I’d be decked out in my smart little Chanel suit, carrying a Gump’s shopping bag in one arm and an obscenely expensive handbag in the other. I’d meet my dear friend, Bitsy, for a most civilized lunch on a weekday. It would last for hours and include many elegant courses at a serene table set with proper silverware and crystal glasses. The waitstaff would be attentive to every need yet unobtrusive. And the food would be thoroughly graceful and refined.

Minus the high-end wardrobe and the socialite-friend, I actually had such an experience recently. At Michael Mina in San Francisco. For lunch.

Dinner at this glam, high-end establishment may get all the buzz. But you’ll fork over $115 per person for the tasting menu in the evening.

At lunch, though, you can indulge in three courses for $49 or four courses for $59 in the dining room. Or for even more of a bargain and a quicker nosh, enjoy the a la carte menu at the bar.

Lunch at Michael Mina has gone through a few incarnations since it started up earlier this summer. It started out only served in the bar area. But then, expanded into part of the dining room. Now, 15 tables are devoted to lunch service. It’s purposely limited in scope so that the waitstaff can still maintain a high level of service even at an hour when most folks are accustomed to grabbing food on the go. Because only a portion of the dining room is used, it also makes for a quieter environment, where you can actually converse in measured tones with your dining companions, whether it be for business or for pleasure.

When I was invited to be a guest of the restaurant to try out the new lunch service, I chose the four-course option with each course having at least two different dishes to choose from.

A quite generous portion of oysters on the half shell for my first course.

Two housemade, non-alcoholic beverages also are available, including a fun and zingy “Pacquiao Punch” ($5), named for the world-champion Filipino boxer and made with pineapple and Filipino calamansi lime.

For my starter, I had oysters on the half shell. Six oysters of three different varieties, all bracing and sweet of the sea, arrived on ice with traditional horseradish-cocktail and classic mignonette sauces. I was amazed at the portion size, having expected maybe half that many. But lunch here is not dainty that way. The courses are all substantial.

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Baker & Banker Cooking Demo, Dinner & A Movie — Indian-Style and More

Baker & Banker's Lori Baker and Jeff Banker to visit Macy's. (Photo courtesy of the chefs)

Baker & Banker Chefs Visit Macy’s Union Square

Join husband and wife,  Executive Chef Jeff Banker and Pastry Chef Lori Baker, when they demonstrate how to cook brunch favorites, 2 p.m. Aug. 27 at Macy’s Cellar Union Square in San Francisco.

Co-proprietors of Baker & Banker in San Francisco, they will be cooking up “French Toast Bread Pudding” and “Eggs in Purgatory.”

Best yet, this delicious event is free.

Asian Culinary Forum Event at the San Francisco Ferry Building

Four, young and dynamic Asian-American chefs will be talking about “Reinventing Asian Cuisine,” 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. Aug. 22 at the San Francisco Ferry Building.

Richie Nakano of Hapa Ramen. (Photo courtesy of the chef)

Panelists will be: Dennis Lee, chef and co-owner of Namu in San Francisco; Richie Nakano, chef and founder of Hapa Ramen in San Francisco; Sarah Dey, chef and manager of New Delhi in San Francisco; and Wilfred Pacio, founder of Spice Kit in San Francisco.

The moderator will be Thy Tran, founder and director of the Asian Culinary Forum, which is hosting this thought-provoking conversation.

Listen as the chefs talk about the challenges and rewards of trying to pay homage yet still put creative spins on traditional Asian cuisines. Then join in the conversation during the Q&A afterward.

A reception will precede with tastes from each of the featured restaurants, as well as Hodo Soy Beanery, Bex Winery and Momokawa Oregon Craft Sake.

Tickets are $35 each.

Dinner & A Movie — Indian-Style

Bread of India at Swan’s Market in Oakland, 948 Clay St., is kicking off a monthly series of film screenings accompanied by regional meals prepared by Chef Rohit Singh.

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The Buzz on Bar Agricole

You simply can't go to Bar Agricole without having a cocktail.

San Francisco’s Bar Agricole has definitely got it going on.

The winner of this year’s James Beard Award for “Outstanding Restaurant Design,” this one-year-old, South of Market Street establishment fairly exudes coolness behind a fortress-like redwood fence that fronts a spacious courtyard for eating al fresco, and an herb garden for use by the kitchen and bar.

The building’s warehouse-like facade of concrete and corrugated metal gives way to a long, narrow  interior. It’s made more inviting by an entire expanse of wall made of reclaimed whiskey barrel oak planks, as well as massive sculptures hanging from the ceiling that look for all the world like swaths of billowing fabric but are really hundreds of glass cylinders fused together.

We expected a youthful, hipster crowd when my husband and I were invited to dine as guests of the restaurant recently. But what we didn’t count on were the many middle-aged and beyond diners who also were having a great time over food and drink.

Our server explained that was nothing out of the ordinary for this restaurant. Turns out that Generation Xers and Yers rave about the place so much that their parents can’t help but want to check it out, too. How’s that for the ultimate sign of cool?

The restaurant has an industrial-chic vibe.

As ethereal as it looks, this is all glass.

After unfurling denim napkins at our bare wood table, we were all set to order a cocktail. After all, you can’t go to a restaurant that’s named for a type of rum made from freshly-squeezed sugar cane juice and not order a cocktail. Especially when proprietor-mixologist Thad Vogler is so meticulous about the freshness and precision of his cocktails that he also makes five types of ice to keep them cold.

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More Scenes From SF Chefs Food Wine 2011

Flower + Water's twist on classic tortellini en brodo.

When it comes to contemporary cooking in the Bay Area, what’s old is definitely new again.

That was decidedly evident in the “Culinary Innovation Demos” at the Westin St. Francis last week, held for culinary industry folks, as part of the third annual SF Chefs Food Wine event.

The demos, hosted by Jim Poris and Beverly Stephen (both long-time editors of Food Arts magazine), featured Chef Brandon Jew of Bar Agricole in San Francisco and Chef Thomas McNaughton of Flour + Water in San Francisco doing riffs on classic, old-school dishes.

Thad Vogler, mixologist of Bar Agricole, got the party started by passing out Cooperstown cocktails to the audience — a refreshing, herbal-forward libation made with gin, two kinds of vermouth and pineapple mint grown at the restaurant.

Thad Vogler of Bar Agricole explains his philosophy about cocktails.

Bar Agricole's Cooperstown cocktail.

The classic aperitif originated at New York’s Waldorf-Astoria to prime the palate for the meal to follow. At Bar Agricole, the drink is refined with large cubes of ice, specially made to lessen dilution and keep the drink extra cold. It’s also served in a super thin glass made in Japan to enhance the sipping pleasure.

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Scenes from SF Chefs Food Wine 2011

A bevy of chefs cut a chocolate cake depicting San Francisco's skyline to signal the start of SF Chefs Food Wine. How many chefs can you name?

To kick off the start of the third annual SF Chefs Food Wine extravaganza last Friday night on Union Square in San Francisco, no simple little ribbon-cutting ceremony would do.

Instead, Pastry Chef Lori Baker — who owns Baker & Banker in San Francisco with her husband, Chef Jeff Banker — created an astounding devil’s food cake cityscape complete with chocolate buildings to depict the Transamerica pyramid and an assortment of other iconic landmarks, including her own restaurant.

On their marks, a who’s who of celeb San Francisco chefs — including Chris Cosentino of Incanto, Emily Luchetti of Farallon and Waterbar, Mourad Lahlou of Aziza, and Russell Jackson of Lafite, as well as famed New York restaurateur Drew Nieporent, who flew in just for the occasion — grabbed knives to cut into the cake to signal the start of the three-day food and wine celebration.

That was preceded by the traditional sabering of a champagne bottle, as Cosentino looked on with knife envy, having sabered a champagne bottle with a Russian sword at his own wedding.

The entrance to the tent on Union Square.

Close-up of the cake made by Baker & Banker restaurant.

Lori Baker and Jeff Banker of Baker & Banker pose with Russell Jackson

Chef Chris Cosentino of Incanto addresses the crowd.

The ceremonial sabering of the champagne bottle.

When the doors opened to the enormous tent pitched on Union Square, 1,200 folks piled inside to sample wines, cocktails and gourmet noshes prepared by 35 Bay Area chefs and to groove to the sounds of Chef Joey Altman’s band.

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