Category Archives: Chefs

Five Reasons to Go To Five Restaurant

Bet you'll eat more than five onion strings at Five in Berkeley.

1) The gifted Scott Howard, formerly of Fork in San Anselmo and Scott Howard restaurant in San Francisco, is the chef.

2) The bold, artsy black-and-white interior is a modern-take on a Southern plantation.

3) If you’re out and about in the East Bay, it’s an airy, lively place to take a load off.

4) Fun drinks quench your thirst, such as “Hell or High Watermelon,” a wheat beer in which 400 pounds of watermelon are pressed in each batch. It’s dry, clean-tasting, and faintly fruity on the back note.

5) Vanilla bean butterscotch pudding with crumbles of peanut brittle and shavings of chocolate is sure to satisfy your sweet tooth.

The ornate dining room.

Five restaurant, which opened in July in downtown Berkeley inside the refurbished Hotel Shattuck Plaza, serves American classics with a twist. Think orzo “mac & cheese” ($12), short rib pot roast ($22), and steak tartare ($12).

Why the name? The press materials explain that it’s “a number that is familiar and appears frequently in our day-to-day lives: five senses, five elements, and five o’clock happy hour, to name a few.  Although familiar and frequent, the term FIVE is complex and dimensional, similar to the restaurant’s offerings and Howard’s culinary technique.”

So Berkeley, isn’t it?

The decor is, too. Flashes of red, including a massive flame-jeweled chandelier, make the space grand and eye-catching. Look closely when you enter, and you’ll notice a peace sign inlaid in the floor.

I was eager to try the new restaurant when I got an invitation to do so last month, because I have been a fan of Howard’s cooking since his days at his eponymous restaurant in San Francisco’s Jackson Square neighborhood.

His food at Five is more homey, less thrilling and not so cutting-edge as in San Francisco. But choose wisely, and you’ll be rewarded.

Service, at least a few weeks ago, still had a few kinks. Our waiter had to return to our table twice — once after taking our drink order, the next time after taking our entree orders — to make sure he got it all correctly. I felt like telling him it was perfectly OK if he wanted to actually write it down, because he didn’t either times. We forgave him the lapses, though, because he was so sincere and well-meaning.

Biscuit heaven.

Plus, we were in too good a mood after noshing on the buttery, tender, house-made chive biscuits that come with a little crock of pimento cheese. I could make a meal of these alone.

My hubby and I started with the “Deviled Surf & Turf Eggs” ($10), and the ahi tuna tartare ($14).

Deviled eggs done two ways.

The deviled eggs came six halves to an order — three of them filled with Dungeness crab salad, the other three stuffed with deviled egg yolk with slivers of crispy, salty ham.

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Get Ready for Burgers, Chocolate, Celeb Chefs, and More

Fleming's Prime Burger is a mouth-full and then some. (Photo courtesy of Fleming's)

Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar is rolling out a bevy of burgers on its bar menu.

Sit down in the bar area at either of the two Bay Area locations, Palo Alto and Walnut Creek, to take your pick of Fleming’s Prime Burger (with cheddar cheese and peppered bacon, $12), Sliced Filet Mignon Burger (with sauteed mushrooms and Bernaise sauce, $18), Jumbo Lump Crab Cake Burger (with creamy mustard sauce, $16), Ahi Tuna Burger (with soy ginger sauce, $12), or Portobello Mushroom Burger (with sauteed spinach and creamy goat cheese, $10).

All are accompanied by a mini wedge salad and onion rings.

Every Wednesday through September from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m., the restaurant will offer complimentary samplings of its burger menu to entice you even more.

Chocolate and more chocolate star at the Ghirardelli Square Chocolate Festival. (Photo courtesy of Ghirardelli)

If chocolate is more your thing, you’ll be in heaven at the 14th annual Ghirardelli Square Chocolate Festival, noon to 5 p.m. Sept. 12-13.

More than 40 vendors will be showcasing their chocolate creations, including Kika’s Treats, Mary Louise Butters Brownies, and Ciao Bella Gelato.

There will be live music, as well as a “Hands Free” Earthquake Ice Cream Sundae Eating Contest. Yes, it’s just what you think it is, and just as messy. The winner takes home a ginormous basket of Ghirardelli chocolate.

Top Chef's Casey Thompson. (Photo courtesy of the Ghirardelli Square Chocolate Festival)

If that weren’t enough, “Top Chef” finalist, Casey Thompson, will lead the cooking demonstrations at 2 p.m. both days.  Bravo TV fans may remember that Thompson was not only voted “America’s Favorite” on the show, but nicknamed “the Jennifer Aniston of cooking” by the one and only Anthony Bourdain.

The festival is free. Chocolate tasting tickets are $20 for 15 tastings. The event benefits Project Open Hand, a San Francisco non-profit that provides meals to seniors and seriously ill individuals.

Summer heirloom tomatoes go swank at Masa’s in San Francisco.

The restaurant is featuring a “Celebration of Tomatoes’‘ eight-course menu for $105 per person, Tuesday through Saturday nights through September. Wine pairing is an additional $79.

Dishes are expected to include ones such as Green Zebra tomato gazpacho with ricotta cheese flan and Gravenstein apple salad; and pan-seared medallion of prime New York beef with roasted tomato tartlette. The tomatoes are from Verdure Farm in Healdsburg.

Seafood goes Italian-style at Poggio Trattoria in Sausalito.

Sept. 15-19, the restaurant will host “Festa di Pesce” to showcase local seafood such as sardines, calamari, anchovies, mackerel, and swordfish.

Chef Peter McNee will debut a special menu of crudo (raw, marinated, cured), and cotto (cooked) seafood antipasti. They will be priced from $7 to $9, or three for $21. A pairing of three tastes of Italian wine is an additional $12 per person.

Duck leg confit with plum glaze, which I got to sample last week at LarkCreekSteak.

The Lark Creek Restaurant Group spotlights South Australia through September.

The “South Australia Comes to America” promotion will feature menus, wines, and special events showcasing the fourth largest of Australia’s six states. South Australia is one and a half times larger than Texas, and accounts for about 60 percent of all wine made in Australia.

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Do You Dream Of Becoming a Chef, Vintner, Fisherman, Or…?

Bendistillery's vodka infusion. (Photo courtesy of Greg Robeson)

Then, you might just get a boost to help that dream come true.

The Oregon Travel Commission is hosting a contest to give away seven “cuisinternships” (that’s culinary internships to those in the know). Yes, seven winners will be selected to spend one all-expense-paid week shadowing an expert in his or her preferred culinary craft. The internships up for grabs are:

  • Artisan Food Producer: Become a culinary artisan in Southern Oregon with chocolatier Jeff Shepherd of Lillie Belle Farms and cheese maker David Gremmels of Rogue Creamery.
  • Brew Master: Turn hops and grains into craft beer with brew master Jamie Emmerson of Hood River ‘s Full Sail Brewery.
  • Chef: Immerse yourself in Portland ‘s dynamic food scene working alongside Chef Gabe Rucker — one of Portland ‘s culinary provocateurs — learning how to turn out inventive, gourmet meals that delight diners at the award-winning Le Pigeon restaurant.
  • Rancher: Saddle up and herd cattle while learning sustainable ranching on two of Eastern Oregon ‘s Country Natural Beef ranches with the Pickard and Boyer families, who have been in the business for generations.
  • Fisherman: Head out to sea with charter boat skipper Lars Robison of Dockside Charters and learn the fine art of catching the Oregon Coast ‘s prized wild salmon and rockfish.
  • Winemaker: Walk the Willamette Valley vineyards of Penner-Ash Wine Cellars with renowned vintner Lynn Penner-Ash, learning the hands-on techniques involved in vineyard designate wine-making.
  • Distiller: Get an advanced degree in mixology and learn about Oregon ‘s booming craft spirits industry with distiller Jim Bendis of Central Oregon ‘s Bendistillery.

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Take Five With Michael Chiarello, On the Aftermath of “Top Chef Masters”

Chef, cookbook author, and TV star, Michael Chiarello. (Photo courtesy of Bill Reitzel)

You know Michael Chiarello as the charming host of PBS and Fine Living cooking shows.

You know him for his gourmet products and coveted culinary accouterments sold at his NapaStyle stores.

You also know the Culinary Institute of America-grad as the founding chef of Tra Vigne restaurant in St. Helena, and now as the chef-owner of Bottega Napa Valley restaurant in Yountville.

And of course, you know him for how he managed to remain cool, calm, and collected on Bravo TV’s recent “Top Chef Masters” show even when former “Top Chef” contestant Dale Talde went ballistic after Chiarello addressed him as “young man.”

At a time when celeb chefs are easing out of the restaurant kitchen to spend more time in front of the camera, Chiarello is taking the opposite approach. A cooking-show star since the late 1990s, Chiarello decided last year at age 46 to step back into the rigors of a professional kitchen by opening Bottega, even though it had been about nine years since he last did so. Next fall, he’ll be bringing out a Bottega cookbook, too.

We chatted recently about why he dared to step back into the grueling restaurant ring, and of course, about how he felt about his portrayal on “Top Chef Masters.”

Shortribs at Bottega. (Photo courtesy of Phil Harvey)

Q: So, tell the truth; were you happy with the way you were represented on “Top Chef Masters”?

A: (laughs) I was happy with all the shows but one. It was certainly reality TV. No arguing that. When you shoot for 18 hours, and have 46 minutes of screen time, you have a lot of leeway. I’m 47 now. I’m exacting at Bottega, but I’m not a screamer. That doesn’t mean you’re not cooking hard, and that you’re not specific about what you like.

For a guy who has been on TV so much, I don’t watch a lot of it. I had seen one or two “Top Chef” episodes, but I didn’t really watch the show. I had to have them send me tapes to see. I got plenty of calls from the chef community after that show. They were like, ‘I hope that never happens to me!’

Q: I have to say, though, that it was refreshing that “Top Chef Masters” had none of the back-stabbing and sabotage of the regular “Top Chefs” show. Do you attribute that to the greater experience and maturity that you and the other master chefs have?

A: To be honest, I can’t say it’s necessarily a generational thing. They’re casting for a show for reality TV. It’s a producer’s job to create enough intrigue to keep you coming back to see what happens next week. What shocked them was that the public really found it refreshing to see the camaraderie and professionalism. Where I came from, there wasn’t back-stabbing in the kitchen. You were there to learn a style of cooking, and you enjoyed the camaraderie brought on by creating a single vision together.

I’m also friends with 18 of the 24 chefs who were on the show. I’ve known Rick Bayless for 20 years. He cooked a sweet-16 dinner for my daughter. I’ve known Hubert Keller even longer. He’s cooked date nights for my wife and I. And I’ve known Jonathan Waxman since I was 19.

Q: Which of your “Top Chef Masters” competitors would you most want to cook with regularly?

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Inside the Cafe at Facebook Headquarters

Employees of Facebook eat THIS for lunch.

Black mission figs with Serrano ham. Tiny beef meatballs with pine nuts and sweet yellow peaches. Tender braised rabbit with moscatel, cinnamon, and fresh cherries. And rich chocolate roulade cake shot through with rum.

That was only a small portion of my incredible Spanish lunch last week at the Palo Alto headquarters of Facebook. After all, social networking — and creating the tools to do it — sure does work up a hefty appetite. No one knows that better than Josef Desimone, Facebook’s “culinary overlord.” And yes, that is his real title.

The energetic, fast-talking, 40-year-old chef invited me to come for lunch to see how his kitchen staff of 50 turns out 2,300 meals a day for more than 800 Facebook employees. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks are provided to this hungry crew — all of it for free. Make friends with someone at Facebook, and you, too, can partake of the scrumptious offerings that change daily, as employees are allowed to bring guests to dine.

Facebook's ''culinary overlord.''

The food, by this former chef of Cafe de la Presse in San Francisco, is so delicious and of such high-quality, it rivals that of restaurants where you’d have to pay a pretty penny to eat. Kathleen Loughlin, a Facebook communications person, jokes that the food is so irresistible that she’s had to frequent the gym more since Desimone came on board a year ago. Job applicants are always invited to come interview near lunch time, too, Loughlin says, because Facebook is well aware that its cafe is a monster recruiting tool.

If Google set the bar for gourmet cafeterias on Silicon Valley high-tech corporate campuses, then Facebook is aiming to push it even higher. Desimone has the cred to do it, too. Back in the day, he was the second sous chef hired at Google by the search engine giant’s famous original executive chef, Charlie Ayers. It was Desimone who designed the layout for the kitchens at Google in Mountain View, and who did the same for Facebook, when it moved into its S. California Avenue building three months ago after outgrowing its 10 buildings scattered around downtown Palo Alto.

“I’d do the Pepsi Challenge with them any day,” Desimone says about Google’s culinary program. “Google was good, but all the original chefs are gone now. And I got my pick of the litter. Eighty percent of my staff came from Google. We work our asses off here. But we have fun doing it.”

Indeed, they do.

One of Hawaii’s most well known chefs, Sam Choy, has cooked here. Charles Phan of the Slanted Door in San Francisco, is scheduled to drop by later this year to do the same. So is New Orleans legend, Paul Prudhomme. They don’t get paid to do so. They just want to do it, because they’re friends with Desimone.

A tapa of rustic bread drizzled with dark chocolate, olive oil, and sea salt.

Marinated Idiazabal cheese with rosemary.

Squash blossoms for Castilian-style zucchini with eggplant and tomatoes.

Meals are structured around cultural or global themes, which change not only daily, but between lunch and dinner. For instance, lunch might be a southern barbecue, while dinner might center around Cuban food. Desimone mixes it all up, never repeating the exact same menu again. He’s so organized that he can tell you what is on the menu for June of next year and which chef is in charge of it.

Employees can make requests. Someone once asked for an all-chocolate menu. Desimone complied with a “Willy Wonka Menu” of chocolate ravioli with pepper ricotta, lamb with a chocolate rub, and mole, of course. Then there was the tribute to “The Simpsons” TV show, which featured deep-fried pork chop in honor of Homer Simpson, and brown rice in an homage to his straight-laced daughter, Lisa.

“We’ll take on any challenge,” Desimone says. “If someone asks me to do their mom’s chicken and dumplings recipe, I’ll do it.”

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