Category Archives: Chefs

A Mackerel Match Made In Heaven

Stuart Brioza's mackerel

My husband can attest to the fact that mackerel is not one of my fave fishes. In fact, usually when I get a slice in an assortment of sushi or sashimi, it always ends up on his plate instead.

Stuart Brioza knows it’s a hard-sell, too, even if mackerel (wild-caught king and Spanish) is one of the best seafood choices on the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch Guide. Nevertheless, Brioza, the executive chef of Rubicon in San Francisco, made many a convert when he cooked a fabulous honey, soy, and beer broiled mackerel with sesame-lime glaze at the recent “Cooking For Solutions” gala at the aquarium. The usual strong taste of the mackerel was tempered by the marriage of the other sweet, aromatic, and citrusy ingredients. The result was like a less sweet unagi. And it was scrumptious.

Speaking of marriage, Brioza and his longtime girlfriend, Nicole Krasinski, Rubicon’s pastry chef, will finally be tying the knot. The couple, who met 13 years ago in a photography class at De Anza College in Cupertino, will be getting hitched on a friend’s farm in Hilo in September. Krasinski, who’s not fond of cake (say what?), plans on serving their guests exotic citrus tarts instead.

It’s shaping up to be quite a year for Brioza, who grew up in Cupertino and Danville, and Krasinski, who is a Los Gatos native. In the July issue of Food & Wine magazine, the couple will be featured in a story about the peach tree they adopt every year at Mas Masamoto’s renowned peach farm just outside of Fresno. Look for mouth-watering sweet and savory peach recipes.

The happy couple in front of the jellyfish exhibit.

And for those of you who love mackerel — and those of you who don’t quite yet — here’s Brioza’s recipe that’s guaranteed to please.

Honey, Soy and Beer Broiled Mackerel with Sesame-Lime Glaze

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An Evening of Chinese-Indian Cultures and Cuisines

Owner Ranjan Dey and Public Television star chef Martin Yan invite you to an evening at New Delhi restaurant in San Francisco, 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. May 25, to benefit the Compassionate Chefs Cafe.

The menu, prepared by Dey of New Delhi restaurant and Yan, will be served family-style. Dishes include chicken Manchurian with Hakka noodles, Kashmiri lamb kofta, mango float, and milk dumpling in warm cardamom syrup.

Tickets are $125, and all funds will go to the Compassionate Chefs Cafe, a non-profit San Francisco organization that helps children locally and globally. Tickets are available by calling Dey at (415) 816-4068 or emailing him at ranjan@newdelhirestaurant.com

Meet the Food Gal and Chef Charlie Ayers

Yes, I’ll be doing my best impersonation of Charlie Rose when I moderate the May 19 Silicon Valley Commonwealth Club’s talk and book-signing event with Charlie Ayers, the former executive chef of Google.

Come join us for a fun evening with Ayers, who also used to cook for the Grateful Dead and Robin Williams. He will be signing copies of his first cookbook, “Food 2.0, Secrets From the Chef Who Fed Google”.

The 7 p.m. event is at Cubberley Community Theatre, 4000 Middlefield Road in Palo Alto. Tickets are $10 for members; $15 for non-members. For reservations, click here or call (800) 847-7730.

The chat also will be taped for airing at a future date on KLIV AM (1590), which generally airs Commonwealth Club events on Thursdays at 7 p.m. and 10 p.m.

Time Again For the Star Chefs & Vintners Gala

Bay Area superstar chefs Nancy Oakes, Michael Mina, Traci des Jardins, Charles Phan, Douglas Keane, David Kinch, Chris Cosentino, Cal Stamenov, and Elizabeth Faulkner are among the culinary luminaries who will headline the 21st Annual Star Chefs & Vintners Gala, May 18 at Fort Mason’s Festival Pavillion in San Francisco.

The mega-event is a fund-raiser for Meals on Wheels of San Francisco, which provides meals and other support services to homebound seniors. Last year’s event raised a record $1 million.

The night begins with hors d’oeuvres and wines by dozens of wineries, including Beringer Vineyards, Chappellet Winery, Chiarello Family Vineyards, Dalla Valle Vineyards, and Robert Sinskey Vineyards. That will be followed by a three-course, sit-down dinner, with each course prepared by one of 24 different chefs.

Individual tickets are $400. To reserve, click here or call (415) 920-1111 ext. 221.

Courage Beyond Belief

That’s what Chef Grant Achatz exhibted as he fought an unbelievable battle with tongue cancer.

The celebrated chef-proprieter of Alinea in Chicago and one of the true pioneers in this country of molecular gastronomy, Achatz not only fought for his life, but faced the devastating prospect of losing his ability to taste.

Achatz is nothing but a fighter. After all, as a young man, he so desperately wanted to work at the French Laundry in Yountville under the revered Thomas Keller that he sent Keller his resume — for 24 days straight — until Keller hired him. He ended up rising to sous chef, before leaving for Chicago to strike out on his own.

I’ve had the honor of interviewing him a couple times over the years, and there are few chefs as intelligent, articulate, and thought-provoking.

In this month’s New Yorker magazine, D.T. Max profiles Achatz, and tells how the rare cancer remained undiagnosed for more than a year until it grew so massive that Achatz could barely eat; how doctors told him his only option was to have his tongue cut out, a course of action Achatz refused; and how Achatz, the father of two young boys (one named Keller after his mentor), never stopped working through any of this.

It’s a lengthy story, but I promise you’ll read every word of it.

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