Category Archives: Chefs

My Lunch At Google

Cucumber-seaweed salad, assorted vegetable kimchee, and chrysanthemum greens with tofu.

If you’ve been wondering what happened to that wonderful San Francisco Chronicle food writer, Olivia Wu, she didn’t go far in miles, but she did do quite the about-face in her career.

Wu put down her pen and notepad to free her hands for some bonafide cooking. Since early this year, she’s been an executive chef at one of Google’s famed cafes in Mountain View. At her Oasis Cafe, she oversees a staff of 26, who turn out more than 600 meals a day for hungry Googlers.

A former caterer, private chef, newspaper reporter, music teacher, and yoga instructor, Wu says one reason she took the job was for the challenge to expand the palates and horizons of this young, techie crowd. As one of her wholesale distributors said of her in awe, “She’s cooking Chinese food. Real Chinese food!”

Forget visions of chow mein and egg rolls. Think steamed fresh fish, pork hash with pungent salted fish, homemade lemongrass tea, and fresh juice from young coconuts cracked to order. Or the menu the day she graciously invited me to come for lunch last week: cold salads of chrysanthemum greens and tofu, cucumber-seaweed, cranberry shelling beans flavored with shiso, assorted vegetable kimchee, and 5-spice beef cut from the succulent shin bone. The hot selections that day included: spicy ma po tofu, melt-in-your-mouth crystal pork (steamed pork shoulder drizzled with a soy-garlic-sugar sauce), and stir-fried broccoli. If that wasn’t enough, there was also house-made bubble tea with fresh, peeled lychees bobbing in it.

Ma po tofu, crystal pork, fried rice, and stir-fried broccoli.

Wu uses as many organic ingredients as possible (including the tofu), and only serves sustainable seafood. She’s even added a few traditional big round tables with lazy-susans to the seating area to encourage more synergy among Googlers as they dine.

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Bay Area Chef Mark Sullivan Penning a Cookbook

Mark Sullivan, chef-partner of the Village Pub in Woodside and Spruce in San Francisco, is a self-taught cook who holds a degree in philosophy. Now, he’s turning that introspective nature on a new cookbook.

Sullivan is working on the book with his sister, Katy Sullivan-Morford, a Bay Area food writer. It will be about cooking in restaurants and at home, and about the importance of the shared experience of gathering around the table. There will be plenty of personal stories and photos, too.

What there isn’t yet is a title or a publisher. But given Sullivan’s talent and prominence — he was named one of Food & Wine magazine’s best new chefs of 2002 — one is bound to snap up the project.

Savoring the Fifth Taste

You know sweet, salty, bitter, and sour. But do you know umami, the fifth taste?

Attend the “Umami Symposium: New Frontiers of Taste,” 11:30 a.m. July 21 at the Hyatt Regency in San Francisco, and you’ll know it even better. The event, hosted by the Umami Information Center, commemorates the 100th anniversary of the discovery of umami in Tokyo, Japan.

Umami is the savory flavor we can’t get enough of in so many foods. Think Parmesan cheese, mushrooms, cured ham, soy sauce, chicken soup, meat, and fish.

The event leads off with a panel discussion featuring smell and taste scientists; food writer and food scientist Harold McGee; Kunio Tokuoka, executive chef of Kyoto Kitcho in Japan; and Master of Wine Tim Hanni. Following that, a multi-course lunch will be served, with each dish demonstrating the irresistible nature of umami. Tokuoka will prepare the dishes, along with chefs Hiro Sone of Ame in San Francisco and Terra in St. Helena; and Thomas Keller of the French Laundry in Yountville.

Tickets are $100. But hurry — registration ends July 7.

If you miss that event, you can still enjoy a feast of umami at Ame, which will be offering a special tasting menu focusing on the fifth flavor,  July 14 to Aug. 3. The five-course dinner is $85, plus an additional $65 for wine pairings. Dishes include broiled sake-marinated black cod in shiso broth, grilled Berkshire pork on Carolina gold rice with tomato “risotto,” and caramel ice cream with shoyu powder.

The Guys From Incanto Present Boccalone Salumeria

Boccalone orange and wild fennel salame (foreground); and brown sugar and fennel salame (background).

Mmmm, pork, pork, and more pork.

You’ll find all that and more at the new Boccalone Salumeria in the San Francisco Ferry Building Marketplace.

It’s the artisan charcuterie mecca founded by the two guys from Incanto restaurant in San Francisco, Proprieter Mark Pastore, and Executive Chef Chris Cosentino.

With more than 20 varieties of handmade cured meats, you’ll be hard pressed to pick just one. Choose from  pancetta, lonza (cured pork loin), hard-to-find lardo (cured pork fat), and out-of-this-world orange & wild fennel salame, among others. Salumi is sliced to order. And hungry customers can order up paninis and salumi platters.

If the Ferry Building is out of your way, you also can order products online to satisfy your cravings.

Culinary Luminaries Descend Upon Los Altos Hills July 19

Chef Christopher KostowÂ

We’re talking a stellar line-up of some of the Bay Area’s best chefs: Christopher Kostow of the Restaurant at Meadowood in St. Helena, Cal Stamenov of Marinus at Bernardus Lodge in Carmel Valley, Alessandro Cartumini of Quattro in the Four Seasons Hotel Silicon Valley in East Palo Alto, Daniel Patino of Michael Mina’s Arcadia in San Jose, Xavier Salomon of the Ritz-Carlton Half Moon Bay, and Robert Holt of Cetrella in Chef Daniel Patino. Photo by Chris Schmauch.Half Moon Bay.

That whet your whistle?

Then, you’ll want to attend the 26th annual Vintage Affaire gala in Los Altos Hills on July 19. The event is held at a different private estate each year that can accommodate 500 guests.

Enjoy a silent auction, then a sit-down dinner, followed by a live auction. McCall Catering will handle the duties for the dinner, and the six top chefs will be doling out specialty appetizers during the silent auction. Look for Stamenov to serve up duck foie blond salad with pickled Bing cherries; and PaChef Cal Stamenovtino to offer Mina’s signature osetra caviar parfait.

Tickets are $250. Upon purchase, guests will receive the address of the host estate in Los Altos Hills. The event is a benefit for Vista Center for the blind and visually impaired. Over the past 25 years, Vintage Affaire has raised more than $5.5 million for the center.

Tickets are available by calling (650) 858-0202 or by clicking here.

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