Category Archives: Chefs

Take Five With South Bay Chef Justin Perez, A True Survivor

Chef Justin Perez

The restaurant industry can be a nail-biting, roller-coaster ride. But few chefs have weathered as many jolting ups and downs as Justin Perez.

In 2003, his small Buca restaurant in Campbell faced a David-and-Goliath fight when restaurant chain Buca di Beppo, which has more than 30 locations nationwide, threatened a lawsuit because it believed the name of Perez’s restaurant was too similar and could confuse customers. Rather than face an expensive legal battle, Perez renamed his popular establishment, Restaurant O.

Two years later, a bizarre incident occurred while Perez was relaxing with his family at their San Jose home. A hysterical woman came running up to them, screaming that her husband was going to kill her. Perez and his family took her into their home and called police for help.

His good deed, though, soon turned into a horrific nightmare. His house was subsequently fire-bombed, and bricks hurled through his front windows. The husband’s brother was later convicted of those crimes, but not before Perez, his wife, and their young children were severely traumatized.

In 2006, with his life back together, Perez spent $30,000 to renovate Restaurant O. He did all the work, himself, with the help of a few friends, only to discover a year later that his landlord was selling the property to make way for a senior retirement project there instead.

As word spread about the plans, diners stopped going to the restaurant, believing it was already closed. With so little business, Perez was forced to shutter it.

He was crushed. Yet unbelievably, the worst was yet to come.

I caught up with the 37-year-old chef, who somehow has remained indefatigable through it all.

Q: Your life has been a soap opera, hasn’t it?

A: We used to actually say, ‘As the O turns,’ when we had bad days at Restaurant O.

Q: And after Restaurant O closed, that wasn’t the end of your struggles?

A: No. Around that time, I found out my former director of operations had embezzled about $750,000 from the restaurant. I’d known him for 20 years. He was my best friend. It was pretty devastating.

Q: How did you finally find out?

A: He got really sick last year, and had to stop working. That’s when we found out. He had taken out loans and forged my name on them. We’d give him money to pay the taxes, but we ended up owing more than $300,000 in payroll taxes to the IRS. At one point, I owed close to $1 million to the IRS and to our vendors.

Q: What did you do?

A: I mortgaged my two houses –the San Jose one my family lives in and the one in Oregon that my grandfather lives in. I tried to pay things down as much as I could, but when interest rates went up, that killed me.

I finally filed for personal bankruptcy. So I’m no longer the owner of my company. Chris Flippen, my director of marketing and sales, is. I’m just an employee.

Q: Where is your former best friend now?

A: He disappeared. We filed police reports on him. But nobody knows where he is now.

Q: I don’t know many people who could look so pulled together after going through something like that. How have you managed to do so?

A: I’m back where I started, at square one. But I love it. I’m just happy I got through it. I survived.

Q: Your Restaurant O Catering company is now operating out of La Hacienda Inn in Los Gatos. How did that come about?

A: The owner wants to demolish the property for townhouses. But that won’t happen for a couple years. So he offered it to me in the meantime. I’ve been here since March. The building we have is twice the size of what we had at Restaurant O. And we use the patio for hosting the special wine dinners that we do each month.

Q: Have your customers remained loyal or have they been scared off by the bankruptcy?

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Take Five With Legendary Chef Bradley Ogden, Who Dishes On His Newest Project

Bradley Ogden at a recent Parcel 104 event.

Celebrated chef and restaurateur for 35 years, Bradley Ogden has overseen such acclaimed restaurants as Campton Place in San Francisco, the Lark Creek Inn in Larkspur, Parcel 104 in Santa Clara, and his eponymous Bradley Ogden in Las Vegas.

His latest project may catch you by surprise. It’s in — of all places — Solvang. Yes, the noted chef is about to put his stamp on a new, upscale restaurant in the land of windmills and Danish bakeries. Founder of the Lark Creek Restaurant Group (where he’s still a major shareholder and a board member), and in charge of the culinary programs at Parcel 104 and Bradley Ogden restaurants, Ogden let us in on the scoop about his new venture.

Q: Why in the world Solvang?

A: (laughs) It’s a consulting job at the old Royal Scandinavian Inn. The Chumash tribe bought it. They own a casino 4 miles away, but it’s not connected to this project.

It’ll be a boutique hotel with more than 100 rooms. Yes, we have to keep the country-like facade, but the inside will be gutted and the look will be contemporary and warm. I’m redoing the restaurant there. Hopefully, it’ll open in early December. Nope, there’s no name for it yet.

Q: How expensive of a project is this?

A: It’s probably at $12-$20 million project with the hotel and restaurant.

Q: What will the restaurant be like?

A: It will be about 80 seats with a glassed-in kitchen. When you walk in, there will be French doors that will open up to the lounge-bar area that will have water features, landscaping, and fireplaces. The design will be sort of a light California-Hawaiian decor.

You have one of the biggest agricultural areas in the world here, so sustainable agriculture will be a big part of the menu. It will be influenced by local fishermen and local growers. The wine list will be 90 percent American, up and down coast of California, with a heavy emphasis on the Santa Ynez, Paso Robles, and San Luis Obispo area.

It will be an upscale, contemporary American restaurant with prices in the $30 and under range.

Q: And who is the target clientele?

A: Locals, which is the mainstay of any restaurant. And we hope to draw in tourists.

Q: Is it easier or harder to open a restaurant these days?

A: It’s harder now. It doesn’t get any easier even when you know what conceptually works and doesn’t work. We’re in an economy that’s fluctuating, but it’s nothing that we haven’t been through before. People don’t have a lot of money to spend. They may stay closer to home. But they’ll always eat out. It’s cheaper to dine out than eat in.

Q: It is?

A: In some ways, yes. You can’t leave the market without paying $100.

Q: You mean, when you shop at Whole Foods?

A: (laughs)

Q: What do you think of all those reality-TV cooking shows? Do you watch them? Shun them? You know, your whole crew at Parcel 104 is addicted to “Top Chef.”

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Google Chefs In The News Again

About two months ago, Food Gal reported here that Google’s John Dickman had quit his job as global food services director for the search engine dominatrix.

Sources tell us that he didn’t go far. Dickman has joined Apple in Cupertino. Apparently the makers of the nifty iPhone and iPod not only want to feed their hard-working employees better, but want to give Google a run for its money in the gourmet cafeteria arena. Oooh, let the food fight begin.

Nate Keller, a former executive chef at the Google Mountain View campus, had recently moved to the Google facility in San Francisco to oversee Google’s Bridges cafe near the Embarcadero. Guess killer views weren’t enough, as Keller now has resigned from Google, according to sources. No word yet on what his plans are.

And what about Charlie Ayers, the first Google executive chef who set the original high bar for food there? Besides promoting his first cookbook, “Food 2.0, Secrets From the Chef Who Fed Google” and working on opening his Calafia Cafe & Market A Go Go in Palo Alto’s Town and Country Village, he’s joined the political fray.

Well, sort of. Ayers, former private chef to the Grateful Dead, has been asked to do the culinary honors for a July 10 political campaign fund-raiser in Minnesota for former Dead Head/comedian/actor-turned U.S. Senate-candidate, Al Franken. The buzz is that Ayers is already hard at work, contemplating dishes using Minnesota’s famed wild rice, walleye pike, and blueberries.

Team In Training _ Big Time

As if Yountville didn’t already boast an unseemly number of top chefs (it has more Michelin stars per capita than any other city in the world), now it’ll get even more.

Thomas Keller of the French Laundry in Yountville has teamed up with New York superstar Chef Daniel Boulud to establish a non-profit organization aimed at giving young American chefs a leg up on competing in the Bocuse d’Or, the legendary culinary Olympics in which the United States historically hasn’t fared very well.

Keller and Boulud will help choose eight young chefs who will compete in a September cook-off in Orlando at the Epcot International Food & Wine Festival. The top winners will go on to comprise the American team that will compete in the Bocuse d’Or in Lyon, France in January 2009 against 19 other teams.

The American team will get some serious training, October through January, at a special facility set up in a house in Yountville next-door to the French Laundry.  Not only that, but the team’s techniques will be perfected by none other than Certified Master Chef Roland Henin, whom Keller worked for early on in his career and who remains one of the chefs he most admires.

Delectable Dates To Mark on Your Calendar

If you love cheese, then head to Cheese Plus in San Francisco, 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. June 21, as the specialty store celebrates its third anniversary with a Summer Solstice Food Festival.

More than two dozen food artisans will be on hand to show off samples of their products. From noon to 2 p.m., cookbook author and San Francisco Chronicle food writer, Janet Fletcher, will sign copies of her latest book, “Cheese & Wine” (Chronicle Books).

A knife sharpening expert also will be on site to sharpen your knives and give advice on how to care for them.

Up in Wine Country, there are a bevy of events to come. First up, the Martini House in St. Helena hosts its fourth annual Riesling Week. June 16-21, the restaurant will showcase Rieslings from Germany, Alsace, and Austria.

A special four-course prix fixe menu will be offered, with each dish paired with a different Riesling such as pan-roasted monkfish wrapped in Hobbs smoked bacon accompanied by a pour of Domaine Weinbach ”Schlossberg” Grand Cru, Riesling, Alsace, France, 2005. The dinner is $115 with the wine pairing; $70 without.

Next up, also in St. Helena, enjoy the third annual Napa Valley Jewish Vintners Celebration. Nearly 40 Jewish vintners from California, as well as Israel, will celebrate “Connecting Our Roots,” June 20-22. Proceeds will benefit Jewish non-profit organizations in the valley.

The three-day event begins on a Friday with a reception at a private St. Helena estate, followed by exclusive winery open houses on Saturday, then a glam gala at the Culinary Institute of America’s Greystone Campus, and ends with Sunday brunch at the Napa Valley Museum featuring guest speaker, the best-selling author, Scott Turow.

Tickets are $650 per person. For more information, call (707) 968-9944 or click here.

And lastly, designer heels and big-name wines? Who can resist that combo? If you can’t, then the fourth annual “Wine, Women and Shoes,” 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. June 29 should be on your must-do list.

The event, at the St. Supery Vineyards and Winery in Rutherford, raises money for women’s causes. Since its inception, more than $2 million has been raised for women’s charities.

Enjoy a fashion show of chic foot candy, wonderful wines, and a live and a silent auction. And don’t forget the “Shoe Guys,” who will be carrying shoes on silver trays so you get a peep of those must-have peep-toe pumps.

Tickets are $150 for regular admission; and $250 for premiere admission, which includes front-row seating at the fashion show. For more information, call Belle Orpilla or Katie Wolford at Planned Parenthood at (925) 676-0505 ext. 5220 at 925-676-0505, ext. 5222; or email info@ppshastadiablo. Also, visit: www.ppshastadiablo.org.

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