Category Archives: Cool Cooking Techniques

ABsteak Makes A Splashy Opening in San Francisco’s Union Square

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Thinly sliced Australian Wagyu brisket awaiting the grill at ABsteak.
Thinly sliced Australian Wagyu brisket awaiting the grill at ABsteak.

Upscale Korean steakhouse ABsteak opened in San Francisco’s Union Square last week with flash and panache, along with plenty of fire, but no smoke, well, thanks to its custom grill-tops that vacuum it all away.

It’s the 28th restaurant worldwide for Seoul-born Chef Akira Back, and only his second one in California (the first being in Los Angeles). In the next two years, he plans to open another 10 around the globe.

Quite the accomplishment for Black who was once a professional snowboarder.

I had a chance to check out the glitzy 6,500-square foot subterranean restaurant, when I was invited in as a guest earlier this week.

The logo'd wall that greets you when you descend the stairs to the restaurant.
The logo’d wall that greets you when you descend the stairs to the restaurant.
A private dining room.
A private dining room.
The centerpiece glass wine display.
The centerpiece glass wine display.

Take the stairs or elevator down one level to find the entrance to the restaurant that’s filled with intriguing details. Look up to find a dramatic ceiling with curving and angular steel supports that change as you walk from the bar-lounge, past the showstopping 200-bottle circular glass wine display and into the dining room. Viewed together, they are supposed to evoke the bones, blood vessels and vertebrae inside a cow.

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Discover What’s Sure To Be Your New Favorite Cornbread — Made with Masa Harina

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Ditch the cornmeal for masa harina instead for this outstanding cornbread.
Ditch the cornmeal for masa harina instead for this outstanding cornbread.

When a craving for cornbread hit one day, Los Angeles recipe developer Jess Damuck didn’t run to the store upon realizing she was out of cornmeal. Nope, instead she reached for masa harina instead.

And in the process created the very best version of cornbread.

Moist, fluffy yet somehow crumbly, “Masa Harina Cornbread” exudes deep corn taste like there’s no tomorrow.

The recipe is from her new cookbook, “Health Nut” (Abrams), of which I received a review copy.

Don’t let the title scare you, as this isn’t a rigid cookbook filled with good-for-you recipes that aren’t necessarily the most satisfying. Instead, Damuck, a former culinary producer for Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, has assembled more than 100 recipes that make use of real butter, real cheese, and whatever type of milk you prefer.

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Learn How to Make Franklin Barbecue’s Smoked Chicken

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A magnificent smoked chicken from the master of smoking.
A magnificent smoked chicken from the master of smoking.

I’ve yet to make the life-changing pilgrimage to Austin to endure the hours-long line for the much-lauded fare at Franklin Barbecue.

But at least now, I can say that I’ve made owner Aaron Franklin’s “Smoked Chicken” at home — and swooned over the results.

It’s actually an easy recipe that results in some of the juiciest chicken around, kissed by smoke and infused subtly with tangy, sweet, peppery, and piquant notes. In short, it’s outstanding.

It’s from his book, “Franklin Smoke” (Ten Speed Press, 2023), of which I received a review copy.

A James Beard Foundation “Best Chef” Award winner who has garnered every major barbecue honor around, Franklin wrote the book with New York-based James Beard Award-winning writer Jordan MacKay.

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Soda-Pop Pickled Cucumbers

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Yup, a splash of soda pop adds a fun sweetness to these pickled cucumbers.
Yup, a splash of soda pop adds a fun sweetness to these pickled cucumbers.

These crunchy pickled cucumbers have the usual suspects of ingredients — vinegar, salt, and sugar — but also something rather unusual.

7Up. Or Sprite for those who prefer the competing lemon-lime soda.

Yup, how crazy is that?

I have to say that surprising ingredient was what drew me to this particular recipe, “Sweet-and-Sour 7Up Pickled Cucumbers,” in the new cookbook, “Koreaworld: A Cookbook” (Clarkson Potter), of which I received a review copy.

It was written by Deuki Hong, the chef-owner of the Sunday Family Hospitality Group in San Francisco; and Matt Rodbard, the founding editor of the online magazine, Taste.

Korean cuisine is having a major moment right now. Hong and Rodbard attribute that in great part early on to Chef Roy Choi’s Kogi trucks in Los Angeles that drew crowds for its Korean-Mexican mashup tacos and to Chef David Chang, whose Momofuku in New York introduced a wide audience to the Korean feast known as bo ssam.

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