Category Archives: Restaurants

The One and Only Joyce Goldstein

Fish fillets cooked Catalan-style -- with pine nuts. (Photo by Carolyn Jung)

For four decades, San Francisco’s Joyce Goldstein has been a cooking teacher, cookbook author, chef and restaurateur.

She introduced us to tapas long before the now-crazed small plates trend existed.

She was making couscous at her restaurant before most people even knew what it was.

Now, she’s hard at work on what will be her 26th book.

And oh, by the way, she just turned 75.

This tiny, bespectacled woman continues to teach us all about cooking, eating and culture. Read all about her in my story in the September issue of Food Arts magazine, in which she is spotlighted as this month’s recipient of its Silver Spoon Award.

Then, enjoy this dish from her book, “Tapas: Sensational Small Plates from Spain” (Chronicle Books).

As Goldstein notes, “Fish in Pine Nut Sauce,” which I spied on Epicurious.com, is typical of many Spanish fish dishes in that it features sauces made with nuts. Fillets of firm, white fish are either baked in the oven or cooked on the stovetop in a homestyle, brothy Catalan sauce of tomatoes, green peas, dry white wine, garlic, and sweet paprika that gets its body from ground pine nuts and bread crumbs.

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Take Five with Chef Jennie Lorenzo, On Cooking with Bad Boy Chefs and Life After the Fifth Floor

One of the best meals I’ve had this year can’t be experienced again.

Not in all its totality.

It was on Sept. 4 at San Francisco’s tony Fifth Floor restaurant, on what was the last night that Executive Chef Jennie Lorenzo was in the kitchen.

Although, I had eaten at the Fifth Floor a few times over the past few years under the reign of other top toques, I had yet to make it in there to try Lorenzo’s cooking. I had planned on doing so some day. But some day came all too unexpectedly when Lorenzo emailed me that week, inviting me to come in as her guest, as she was about to depart the restaurant after cooking there on and off for five and a half years.

My husband, who is happy enough with a burger and gets jaded after one too many fancy tasting menus, sat back in his chair that night, looked me square in the eyes, and said emphatically after only the second course, “I am SO glad we came. This is really good.”

How good? Even our server, who had worked with Lorenzo for the past few years, came in to dine on his day off a few days before because he wanted to experience Chef Lorenzo’s dazzling cooking one last time before she left.

You might be scratching your head right now, thinking how it’s possible you’ve never heard of this talented, 35-year-old Filipino-American, who has worked for some of the most legendary chefs in the United States, Europe and Japan. It’s not your fault. For whatever reason, Lorenzo never garnered the buzz she should have. She took over right after the restaurant was remodeled — its wild, flashy animal prints toned down to a sleeker, simpler contemporary look.  But the public seemed confused about what the restaurant had become. Some thought it still fine-dining; others turned their back, thinking it had morphed into a bistro of all things.

The pity of that.

Especially  because Lorenzo decided to leave the restaurant to take a much needed break. Although the restaurant will continue, it’s unclear yet who will be named as her replacement.

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An Evening With a Masterful Food Photographer

Who wouldn’t want to be able to photograph food as lovely and luminous as those images above?

I know I sure would.

The pics of Point Reyes glorious cheeses and scenery were  taken by Eric Wolfinger, who has regularly chronicled the San Francisco food scene at such restaurants as Tartine, Slanted Door and Delfina. In fact, you can see his work in the upcoming “Tartine Bread” (Chronicle Books).

Sept. 20, you can meet him in person and pepper him with photography questions when he hosts a special dinner at Outerlands in San Francisco.

The dinner will both celebrate his new exhibition at the nearby Carville Annex, which runs through Oct. 6, and benefit Marimed, an organization working to bring health care and medical care to post-quake Haiti.

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Brunch That’s Epic

Dungeness crab cake Benedict at Epic Roasthouse. (Photo by Mark Leet)

Oh sure, folks go on and on about the burger at Epic Roasthouse in San Francisco, a half-pound behemoth ($20) made from the trimmings of all that primo Prime grade beef on the menu.

But one cannot live by burgers alone. Well, not all the time, anyway.

To that end, there’s also brunch. The restaurant, a short hop from the Harbor Court Hotel, offers brunch, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays.

Take a seat inside or outside this restaurant, which is right on the Embarcadero and boasts picturesque views of the Bay.

A $40 prix-fixe option offers your choice of mimosa or Bloody Mary plus an organic yogurt parfait or cup of creamy corn soup, then a choice of entrees such as an open-face Meyer lemon shrimp sandwich on brioche or New York steak and poached eggs, plus beignets.

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