Category Archives: Restaurants

Inside the Cafe at Facebook Headquarters

Employees of Facebook eat THIS for lunch.

Black mission figs with Serrano ham. Tiny beef meatballs with pine nuts and sweet yellow peaches. Tender braised rabbit with moscatel, cinnamon, and fresh cherries. And rich chocolate roulade cake shot through with rum.

That was only a small portion of my incredible Spanish lunch last week at the Palo Alto headquarters of Facebook. After all, social networking — and creating the tools to do it — sure does work up a hefty appetite. No one knows that better than Josef Desimone, Facebook’s “culinary overlord.” And yes, that is his real title.

The energetic, fast-talking, 40-year-old chef invited me to come for lunch to see how his kitchen staff of 50 turns out 2,300 meals a day for more than 800 Facebook employees. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, and snacks are provided to this hungry crew — all of it for free. Make friends with someone at Facebook, and you, too, can partake of the scrumptious offerings that change daily, as employees are allowed to bring guests to dine.

Facebook's ''culinary overlord.''

The food, by this former chef of Cafe de la Presse in San Francisco, is so delicious and of such high-quality, it rivals that of restaurants where you’d have to pay a pretty penny to eat. Kathleen Loughlin, a Facebook communications person, jokes that the food is so irresistible that she’s had to frequent the gym more since Desimone came on board a year ago. Job applicants are always invited to come interview near lunch time, too, Loughlin says, because Facebook is well aware that its cafe is a monster recruiting tool.

If Google set the bar for gourmet cafeterias on Silicon Valley high-tech corporate campuses, then Facebook is aiming to push it even higher. Desimone has the cred to do it, too. Back in the day, he was the second sous chef hired at Google by the search engine giant’s famous original executive chef, Charlie Ayers. It was Desimone who designed the layout for the kitchens at Google in Mountain View, and who did the same for Facebook, when it moved into its S. California Avenue building three months ago after outgrowing its 10 buildings scattered around downtown Palo Alto.

“I’d do the Pepsi Challenge with them any day,” Desimone says about Google’s culinary program. “Google was good, but all the original chefs are gone now. And I got my pick of the litter. Eighty percent of my staff came from Google. We work our asses off here. But we have fun doing it.”

Indeed, they do.

One of Hawaii’s most well known chefs, Sam Choy, has cooked here. Charles Phan of the Slanted Door in San Francisco, is scheduled to drop by later this year to do the same. So is New Orleans legend, Paul Prudhomme. They don’t get paid to do so. They just want to do it, because they’re friends with Desimone.

A tapa of rustic bread drizzled with dark chocolate, olive oil, and sea salt.

Marinated Idiazabal cheese with rosemary.

Squash blossoms for Castilian-style zucchini with eggplant and tomatoes.

Meals are structured around cultural or global themes, which change not only daily, but between lunch and dinner. For instance, lunch might be a southern barbecue, while dinner might center around Cuban food. Desimone mixes it all up, never repeating the exact same menu again. He’s so organized that he can tell you what is on the menu for June of next year and which chef is in charge of it.

Employees can make requests. Someone once asked for an all-chocolate menu. Desimone complied with a “Willy Wonka Menu” of chocolate ravioli with pepper ricotta, lamb with a chocolate rub, and mole, of course. Then there was the tribute to “The Simpsons” TV show, which featured deep-fried pork chop in honor of Homer Simpson, and brown rice in an homage to his straight-laced daughter, Lisa.

“We’ll take on any challenge,” Desimone says. “If someone asks me to do their mom’s chicken and dumplings recipe, I’ll do it.”

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A Feather In Its Cap for the Plumed Horse

Caviar, ahi, quail egg, and a crispy arch of brioche.

The first time my husband and I dined at the Plumed Horse, shortly after its new owners unveiled its multi-million-dollar rennovation in 2007, our reactions were immediate: We were astonished to experience this level of high-dining in the sleepy village of Saratoga.

Don’t get me wrong. This town has long had a few quite lovely restaurants that stood out from the pack for their ambitious cuisine and service. They have true elegance, in an understated, quiet manner.

Contrast that to the supremely glamorous surroundings of the Plumed Horse, which could be beamed up and set down in Manhattan or San Francisco or Los Angeles, and fit in quite comfortably. The once rustic restaurant, originally opened in 1952, received the makeover of all makeovers two years ago. It also got a most skilled chef in Peter Armellino, a former chef de cuisine of Aqua in San Francisco.

The wine cellar is a stunner with floor-to-ceiling glass walls and shelves that hold 1,800 bottles. Even the floor is made of glass. Step onto it, and you’ll feel as if you’re floating in mid-air. Peer down to find two more stories of wine below.

From the soaring ceilings in the main dining room hang blown-glass, fiber-optic chandeliers that periodically change color from lime green to fuchsia. Three grand carts roll through the dining room, one holding champagnes, another cheeses, and the last, an assortment of aperitifs.

Like so many restaurants in this difficult year, the Plumed Horse saw a drop in business. But when we were invited in for dinner at the end of July, the dining room was buzzing on a Friday night. Our server happily reported that business had tripled in the past couple of weeks for some unexplained reason. He surmised that maybe people were just tired of scrimping and saving, and finally decided it was high-time to treat themselves a little.

The Plumed Horse is a fine choice to do that, too. Armellino’s food is the epitome of seasonal sophistication. The 41-year-old chef even grows his own herbs and citrus on the property, tucked away in flower boxes and a lower-level yard. There’s lemon grass, purple basil, Thai basil, tarragon, dill, thyme, and bay, as well as Meyer lemon, avocado, Mandarin orange, kaffir lime, and yuzu trees.

He gets tomatoes from a friend who dry farms them with little water so their flavors concentrate and become extremely intense. Figs come from a server’s tree. Another server grows a special type of Mandarin that looks like a kumquat, but with thinner skin. Armellino turns them into marmalade that he serves with foie gras.

“I’ve been a city boy for 20 years,” Armellino says. “To have the opportunity to grow things like this here, I just felt like it was my job to take advantage of it. How can you compare picking thyme out of the ground that’s been warmed in the sun to thyme grown in a hot house? There is no comparison.”

Kumamoto oyster with pressed caviar.

For dinner, order either a la carte or the chef’s tasting menu ($125 per person, with wine pairing an additional $70).

We opted for the latter, which began with an amuse of a Kumamoto oyster on the half shell with a blanket of pressed caviar.

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Kick Off Your Heels At Martins West Pub

Moist and crispy chicken breast atop British baked beans.

Cowboy boots would be right at home at the new Martins West Pub in Redwood City.

Sure, it’s a gastropub with a British sensibility to the food, but there’s a down-home, kick-off -your-heels look and feel to it, as if you’re stepping foot inside a modern version of an old Western saloon. And that makes sense when you know the history of the Alhambra building that houses it.

The 1896 historic building started out as a theater and — yup — saloon. Over the decades, one of its most famous patrons was none other than Wyatt Earp, who’d visit regularly to watch his wife, Josie sing from the rafters.

You can almost picture Earp in this rustic space that’s been born anew. The dining tables are unadorned wood. Exposed brick walls and iron chandeliers give a timeworn vibe. Water is brought to the tables in milk bottles, and the napkins are soft, cotton dishtowels.

The dining-room is moody dim. So much so that when you’re seated, the hostess will hand you a key-chain flashlight with your menu, so you can actually read it. You get to keep the key-chain, too, which has the restaurant’s logo on it. Consider it a modern-day version of the matchbook of yore.

Executive Chef Michael Dotson, formerly executive chef of PlumpJack Cafe in Squaw Valley, executive chef at Evvia Estiatorio in Palo Alto, and executive chef at Sens restaurant in San Francisco, has crafted a menu of small plates and mains, as well as pub snacks such as Scottish eggs, and a seasonal pastie.

If you’re a California cuisine-type who is all about crisp, fresh veggies, this might not be the place for you, as you’ll only find that criteria met in the Little Gem salad ($9). Otherwise, as is the traditional British way, you’ll find your veggies pickled, pureed in a mash, or fried, which is not necessarily a detriment if you’re in the right mood.

There’s a list of specialty cocktails as befits this historic saloon. I sipped a thoroughly enjoyable and refreshing Pimm’s Cup ($9), garnished with bright green shavings of cucumber skin.

The corndog version of haggis.

My husband and I, who were invited to come for dinner, couldn’t pass up ordering the “haggis on a stick” ($4). Neither of us has had tasted haggis before. Let’s face it — you don’t often find the traditional Scottish and British sausage-like concoction — a mix of sheep organs cooked inside the animal’s stomach — on too many menus around here. And at Martins West Pub, it’s reinterpreted as a newfangled version of a corndog on a stick.

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Fabulous Fish, Tribute to Pork, Julia Child Celebration, and More

Wild Nunavat artic char. (Photo courtesy of Nunavut Development Corporation/Shannon George Photography)

The season is nearing its end for this year’s catch of wild Nunavut artic char. But you can experience this rich, complex tasting fish at a special dinner at Waterbar in San Francisco on Aug. 31.

The fish comes from Nunavut, Canada, near the Artic Circle. As you can imagine, the waters there are as pristine as can be, resulting in fish of incomparable quality.

For generations, the Inuit community there has caught the fish using traditional methods. To support the fishing community there, high-end restaurants across the country have started serving the fish. They include Daniel, Per Se, and Le Berndardin, all in New York.

Waterbar’s three-course dinner is $125 per person. It will feature the fish in spicy spring rolls, hot smoked over cedar, and baked with Pinot Noir gastrique.

To commemorate the late-Julia Child’s birthday on Aug. 20, Kepler’s book store in Menlo Park will host an open house, 6 p.m. to 9 p.m..

Champagne and cake will be served. All cookbooks also will be on sale for 20 percent off, and prizes will be raffled off.

To honor Julia’s birthday and the opening of the flick, “Julie & Julia,” the Grand Cafe in San Francisco will serve one of her iconic dishes, Beouf Bourguignon for half off during the month of August.

The special price of $13.50 is available at lunch or dinner. Just show your theater ticket stub to get the discounted price.

If you’re in an especially porky mood, you’ll want to head to Nob Hill Grille in San Francisco, Aug. 25 and Aug. 26, for a “Tribute to Pork.”

The four-course dinner is $40 per person. Wine pairings are an additional $15.

Dishes will include crispy braised pork belly with oyster mushroom risotto; and suckling pig roasted with rosemary, fresh lavender, and pork reduction.

The inaugural San Francisco Street Food Festival is coming up Aug. 22. Folsom Street, between 25th and 26th streets, will be transformed into a cornucopia of street food vendors offering specialties, none of which will be priced higher than $10.

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A Once-A-Week Restaurant Named Saison

Saison's slow-cooked egg with caviar.

The definition of “restaurant” is changing in these challenging times.

You’ll find more and more chefs branching out to cook one or two nights a week at tucked-away, re-purposed, rented venues — a more economical, and less risky move these days than contemplating the debut of a full-scale establishment all on their own.

That’s just what Executive Chef Joshua Skenes is doing at his Saison restaurant in San Francisco. The tiny, 25-seat space is open only on Sundays for two dinner seatings, but is expected to add Saturday dinner service in another month or so.

Chef Joshua Skenes.

It opened in July in a historic stable next to the Stable Cafe. The cafe is not open on Sundays, but rents out its rear dining room for special events. Skenes had already been renting the cafe’s kitchen to prep his gourmet sandwich cart, Carte415, which he operates 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. weekdays inside the lobby of 101 Second St. in San Francisco. The cart features a different sandwich, salad, soup, Greek yogurt parfait, and housemade beverage daily. It’s Skenes’ answer to a fresh, healthful, good-tasting lunch on the go.

Since he was borrowing the cafe’s kitchen regularly, it wasn’t long before he got the idea of operating a restaurant there on weekends. He opened Saison with friend, Mark Bright, a notable wine consultant who at age 21 joined the sommelier team at Bellagio in Las Vegas and began working the floor at Aqua restaurant there.

I first met Skenes seven years ago. The then 23-year-old was chef of Chez TJ in downtown Mountain View, where he was turning out spectacularly elegant, big-city dishes in a charming, yet far from cosmopolitan, setting just doors away from a brew pub. I still remember being astounded by a prix-fixe course of sashimi, cut like tiny jewels, and served with aged Japanese soy sauce. To say I was blown away by that meal is an understatement.

So I was not the least surprised to hear shortly thereafter that celebrated Chef Michael Mina had made the trip all the way from San Francisco to dine at Chez TJ. He was so floored by his meal that he whisked Skenes away to open Mina’s Stonehill Tavern at the St. Regis Resort in Monarch Bay in 2005.

Hearing that Skenes was back in the Bay Area, my husband and I decided to splurge on dinner at Saison a few weeks ago. Reservations are taken one month in advance to the day. You pay in advance through PayPal. The four-course dinner is $70 per person, and $40 more for wine pairings. An automatic 18 percent gratuity is added. Bright is very generous with the wine, too, coming back to refill glasses that are emptied.

Glasses of bubbly await your arrival at Saison.

You enter the restaurant through two massive stable doors that take you down a long driveway.

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