Tacos? Bien Sur!

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Papito's duck confit taco. Yes, indeed.

It isn’t exactly France meets Mexico at the new Papito in San Francisco.

But you will find a thoroughly wonderful duck confit taco at this tiny restaurant in Portrero Hill, which was opened in August by the restaurateur behind the popular, Francophile Chez Papa and Chez Maman, both in San Francisco.

That would be Jocelyn Bulow, who opened Papito with one of her chefs, Oaxaca-native Rodolfo Castellanos Reyes, who got the 17-seat cafe up and running, only to leave to return to Mexico to start up his own restaurant. Not to fear, his replacement, Reynol Martinez, also from Oaxaca, seems to have a good handle on the menu.

The ingredients are top-notch. Many are organic. The pork is Berkshire. The chorizo is house-made.

Recently, I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant, a short drive from the Holiday Inn Civic Center, to check out the bustling cafe adorned with warm, terracotta walls and big sombrero hats for decor.

Three salsas arrive at the table when you sit down — a zesty tomatillo, a sweet and fruity mango, and a spicy red chile one. If that’s still too tame for you, your server is only too happy to bring you an even hotter version.

Grilled corn with Mexican mayo.

We started with a Mexican street-food staple — grilled corn on the cob ($5), smeared with Mexican mayo and queso cotija. Bowls of house-made red chile salt and wedges of fresh lime let you customize just how spicy or tangy you want it. The corn is sweet, smoky and tender. The squirt of lime really makes it special, cutting through its creamy coat.

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Artisan Chocolates — From the Region Synonymous with Chocolate; And Food Gal Contest Winner

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Derry Church Artisan bon bons -- made in Hershey, PA.

It was almost destined that Eric Clayton grow up to be a chocolatier.

After all, he and his family are fifth-generation natives of Derry Church, PA — the historical name for modern-day Hershey, PA.

Yes, that Hershey’s.

Many of Clayton’s relatives worked for Milton Hershey at his original chocolate factory. Moreover, Clayton’s great-grandfather, a dairy farmer and stone mason, laid part of the foundation for that building and sold milk that went into making the milk chocolate.

So, it’s understandable that Clayton has a serious thing for chocolate. When he was 5, he would collect wrappers from every kind of candy bar he came across. As an adult, he worked as both a chef and a pastry chef. But all along, he knew he wanted to start his own chocolate factory one day.

Thus, Derry Church Artisan Chocolates was born. The chocolates are made by hand in small batches, using certified organic cream and butter from local Pennsylvania dairies, as well as Felchlin couvertures from Switzerland, considered among the best in the world.

I recently had a chance to try samples of some of the bon bons, which come in a wide variety of shapes and are named playfully for different cities around the world. A 10-piece box is $22.

The "Burlington'' bon bon.

I’ll use my patented scale of 1 to 10 lip-smackers, with 1 being the “Bleh, save your money” far end of the spectrum; 5 being the “I’m not sure I’d buy it, but if it was just there, I might nibble some” middle-of-the-road response; and 10 being the “My gawd, I could die now and never be happier, because this is the best thing I’ve ever put in my mouth” supreme ranking.

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Three Delicious Events

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Doc Willoughby. (Photo by Romulo Yanes, courtesy of Gourmet.com)In Mountain View:

Meet the one and only John “Doc” Willoughby, executive editor of Cook’s Illustrated and Cook’s Country magazines, 7:30 p.m. Oct. 21 at Books, Inc. in Mountain View.

Willoughby recently rejoined those magazines after the demise of Gourmet magazine, where he worked for nine years.

He’ll be signing copies of “The America’s Test Kitchen Healthy Family Cookbook” (Boston Common Press) at this free event.

In the East Bay:

Two teams of chef will square off in a Southern challenge, 7 p.m. Oct. 21 at Five restaurant in Berkeley.

Chef Banks White of Five will be joined by Chef Scott Howard, opening chef of Five and now chef of Brick & Bottle in Corte Madera, as they duel against chefs, Dean Dupuis and Charlie Copley of Pican in Oakland in this “Iron Chef”-like challenge, “Seasonal Showdown Dinner.”

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Bay for the Gulf Fund-Raiser and Food Gal Tickets Giveaway

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It’s been six months since the BP oil disaster in the Gulf of Mexico, and three months since a cap installed plugged the well that had been spewing oil into that fragile ecosphere.

But how many years it will take to get that body of water and its surrounding wetlands back to normal, is anyone’s guess.

To lend a much needed hand, Chef Guillaume Bienaimé of Marché in Menlo Park, organized the “Bay for the Gulf,” an event that will take place 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. Oct. 24 at the beautiful Rosewood Sand Hill resort in Menlo Park.

Proceeds from the gala event, which will feature more than a dozen chefs, artisans and wineries, will go to the “Save Our Gulf” initiative of the Waterkeeper Alliance, which will help support the seven Gulf Coast Waterkeepers directly impacted by the oil disaster.

Bienaimé was prompted to act after befriending Pietro Paravanno, a local fisherman here who is also the president of the Institute for Fisheries Resources. It also spurred him to visit Louisiana recently to see the area for himself.

“The oil spill forever changed this unique eco-system, and way of life for so many who live in the bayous and surrounding areas. For many families who rely on the waters of the Gulf as their means of survival, it’s crucial that everything that can be done to clean up the area is done,” said Bienaimé. “The Bay for the Gulf gala, with the collaboration of the amazing chefs, wineries and restaurants that are participating, is a way for those of us in the Bay Area to show support for the people working day and night to clean up this mess.”

Among those participating in the event are: Manresa of Los Gatos,  Aziza of San Francisco, Pastry Chef Carl Swanson of Ubuntu in Napa, Andante Dairy, Far Niente, and Ridge Vineyards.

A silent auction will feature such items up for bid as rare wines and extravagant dining experiences.

Tickets are $150 each.

Contest: One lucky Food Gal reader will win two tickets to the gala. Contest is open only to those who can make it to the Menlo Park event on Oct. 24. Deadline to enter is noon PST Oct. 17. Winner will be announced Oct. 18.

How to enter?

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Caramels with A Goaty Tang

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Soft, pillowy caramels made with goat milk and goat butter.

Gooey soft, sticky, sweet and with a unique chevre-like finish.

That’s the remarkable taste of Happy Goat Caramels, made in small batches by hand in San Francisco.

The candies are made with Grade A Kosher-certified goat’s milk and goat butter from small, free-range farms. For friends who are lactose-intolerant, these might be the perfect treats as goat’s milk is naturally sweeter but lower in lactose than cow’s milk. Goat’s milk also has more Vitamin A and Vitamin B than cow’s milk.

Happy Goat Caramels made in San Francisco.

I recently had a chance to try samples of the all-natural caramels ($6.99 for a package of 7; and $9.99 for a package of 14), which are available at Sur La Table and select Whole Foods stores.

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