David Chang’s Best Dessert in the World
Do yourself a favor: Buy a glazed yeast doughnut. Or two. Pronto.
Now, resist inhaling them in the morning. Instead, save them for the evening.
Then, spend a mere few minutes to transform them into the “Best Dessert in the World.”
That’s what Momofuku’s David Chang calls this uncanny creation.
Given how stupid-simple it is to make and the sheer bliss it provides, I’d have to agree that his multi-named “The Only Dessert I’ll Cook at Home (Doughnuts Cooked in Butter with Ice Cream)” definitely ranks right up there.
It’s from his new cookbook, “Cooking at Home: Or, How I Learned to Stop Worrying About Recipes (And Love My Microwave)” (Clarkson Potter), of which I received a review copy. Chang co-wrote it with New York Times food writer Priya Krishna.
It might be best described as the anti-cookbook. Meaning that it’s more like one of those no-recipe cookbooks of late. There are no precise measurements for ingredients. Sometimes, there aren’t even specific ingredients listed. The idea is to trust yourself more, to season to your own personal taste, and to use what’s in your pantry without dashing to the supermarket for obscure items all the time just to make one dish one way all the time.
For some, this approach might be intimidating. For others, quite freeing.
There are recipes to make dishes completely in the microwave, others that make valuable use of frozen vegetables, and still others that have you cook a large protein that can then be utilized in more dishes during the week.
In short, it’s the way that Chang and Krishna — and so many of us — cook at home, adapting and learning all along the way.
For instance, they teach you to cook a brisket, then use the meat for sandwiches or fan slices on top of a version of Chinese beef noodle soup made with the rich brisket broth.
Chang lets you in on how he keeps batches of seasoned ground meat in his freezer, then pulls one out the night before to defrost in the fridge to make meatballs, dumplings or dduk galbi (a giant Korean meat pancake).
He shows how he makes Asian rice porridge in the microwave with whatever broth he has on hand, and how he can season the comforting juk with cumin or garlic, tomato paste and saffron for a whole ‘nother taste sensation.
Chang readily admits he doesn’t do dessert. But he learned this doughnut hack from another chef whose personal client would only eat this particular dessert.
When the chef made it for Chang, he writes in the book, “I remember that it was easily one of the best bites I had ever had — it was like a fluffy pastry, but covered in sugar that had gotten all caramelized and toffee-like — but I couldn’t tell what the hell it was.”
All it is is a glazed doughnut pan-fried quickly in a pan with melted butter. You want to brown the doughnut deeply on each side so the glaze gets crackly-crisp, with a burnt-caramel or burnt-toffee taste. Then, serve with a scoop of ice cream on top to cover the hole. That’s it.
The taste and texture is hauntingly of pain perdu or very rich French toast — without the need to soak anything in eggs and milk or cream.
The exterior is crisp and buttery, with that lavish burnt-sugar taste. The interior is tender and fluffy.
I used glazed yeast doughnuts from Santa Clara’s iconic Stan’s Donut Shop because, heck, it’s hard to top those babies. I tried the technique both with a fresh doughnut and one left out uncovered overnight. Either way works fine. I also tried it with a doughnut that had been frozen, then defrosted overnight in the fridge. While it still tasted delicious, the glaze had melted in the freezing/defrosting process and the texture of the doughnut had compressed more, leaving it a little too pasty soft, especially at the center, once cooked in the pan.
The recipes in the book are not written in the traditional format of ingredients in columns, followed by precise directions. Instead, they are loose narratives. So, I’ve copied and amended the doughnut recipe below in a way that hopefully makes it as clear-cut as possible.
But honestly, you don’t even need a real recipe to make this, because it’s so ridiculously easy.
Just grab a doughnut and get to it.
The Only Dessert I’ll cook at Home (Doughnuts Cooked in Butter with Ice Cream), aka The Best Dessert in the World
1 glazed doughnut
Vanilla ice cream
In a small pan on medium heat that is coated with a thin layer of melted butter (unsalted or salted — your preference), pan-fry a glazed doughnut on both sides until deeply browned. Transfer the doughnut to a plate, and then add a scoop of vanilla ice cream in the center hole. To upgrade this even more, microwave some more ice cream until it melts, and then drizzle that on top , like a creme anglaise.
From “Cooking at Home” by David Chang and Priya Krishna
More David Chang Recipes to Enjoy: Clam Juk
And: Momofuku’s Pork Buns