New Goings-On At Curry Up Now

West Dilli butter chicken biryani -- one of the new regional biryanis at Curry Up Now.
West Dilli butter chicken biryani — one of the new regional biryanis at Curry Up Now.

If it’s been a moment since you’ve dined at Bay Area-grown Curry Up Now, delicious new happenings are afoot.

First, Bikram Das, formerly of Amber India in Santana Row was hired this spring as corporate executive chef.

Curry Up Now's new corporate executive chef, Bikram Das.
Curry Up Now’s new corporate executive chef, Bikram Das.

Second, the San Jose location did away with counter-ordering and instituted full table service indoors and outdoors.

Three, Das has added new dishes to the menu definitely worth checking out.

After dining as a guest at the San Jose location last week, and wiping a brow, I asked him if he had upped the heat on the dishes.

“Oh, yes!,” he replied with a wink.

Indeed, the food is bolder and spicier than previously. The prices remain incredibly reasonable for the portion sizes, too.

The San Jose location (as well as the San Ramon and San Mateo ones) sports the chain’s Mortar & Pestle full bar that stocks a sizeable number of Japanese and Indian whiskies.

The fun menu cover.
The fun menu cover.
The Mortar & Pestle bar.
The Mortar & Pestle bar.
Perennials & Poison cocktail.
Perennials & Poison cocktail.

Sip a snowball-topped Perennials & Poison ($13) cocktail while watching a cricket game on the large-screen TV. It’s an herbaceous and fruity blend of gin, strawberry, rhubarb, mint, and orange bitters.

Among the new items is Punjabi 69, a mischievously named riff on the classic South Indian Chicken 65, a spicy, deep-fried chicken dish that originated in 1965 at the Hotel Buhari in Chennai.

Punjabi 69 chicken.
Punjabi 69 chicken.
Punjabi 69 cauliflower.
Punjabi 69 cauliflower.

Das offers it in two variations: one, a red chili-laced version with tender, bite-sized boneless pieces of chicken ($12) garnished with a fresh relish or salsa made with diced tomatoes, onion, and green peppers. The second swaps the chicken for cauliflower florets ($12) instead, and the salsa for a crunchy, spicy slaw. They’re both wonderful, but I might just give the edge to the cauliflower version because I love the contrast between the crispy batter and the soft, nutty tasting cauliflower.

Pani puri ready to fill.
Pani puri ready to fill.
Hefty samosas.
Hefty samosas.
Vada pav.
Vada pav.

Pani Puri ($9) are those irresistible paper-thin, hollow semolina balls that you fill at the table with a mash of potatoes and garbanzos, then pour in a little of the emerald-colored, tangy, cumin-tamarind water. These balls are served intact without the usual opening already, so just use a fork tine to puncture each one before filling and eating.

Samosas (two for $9) are sizeable, with thick pastry fashioned into pyramids stuffed with hearty curried potatoes. Two chutneys come alongside to dip them in — a spicy green cilantro one and a sweeter, tangier tamarind-based one.

Vada pav ($9) are like Indian sliders, with soft buttered buns sandwiching a mashed potato fritter, and garnished with garlic chutney that carries a punch.

Regional biryanis are another addition that Das has added, and they make for a grand entrance when they arrive at the table in a covered tagine-like vessel.

The biryani arrives at the table.
The biryani arrives at the table.

The West Dilli butter chicken biryani ($16) is fragrant with curry leaves, shards of ginger, and sweet, crisp onion strings. The tender rice holds chunks of tender chicken. Spoon some of the accompanying yogurt sauce overtop, and it all makes for a satisfying comfort dish.

Das has also added a couple of Indian-Chinese dishes to the menu, reflecting the unique blending of ingredients that originated in India.

Hakka "noods.''
Hakka “noods.”
Indian-Chinese chili chicken.
Indian-Chinese chili chicken.

Hakka “noods” ($13) or noodles are one of the mildest dishes offered. It’s a tangle of soft, thin, wheat noodles stir-fried with plenty of green onions. Enjoy it with egg ($2 more) and chicken ($2 more), if you like.

There’s also the Indian-Chinese chili chicken ($15). Imagine the Chinese dish of Mongolian beef, but done with chicken and spicy chilies, and you get the picture.

The puffy breads.
The puffy breads.

Carb lovers won’t be able to resist the chloe bhature ($14), otherwise known as the “puffy bread.” Pillowy and hollow inside, this iconic Delhi street snack comes with a green chickpea curry, salty-tart pickled veggies, and sweet onions.

Desi donuts.
Desi donuts.

For dessert, the Desi donuts ($7) are almost like a sweet version of the bhature — puffy, hollow triangles of dough drizzled with a sweet glaze and what for all the world look like Fruity Pebbles. They’re a little too one-note sweet for me, but kids are sure to adore them.

Much more is in the works. Das is readying a cart to make pani puri in front of guests that will debut at the San Ramon location, before being added to the San Jose restaurant. A tandoor oven also will be added to the San Mateo restaurant, enabling it to offer kebabs and more types of breads.

Want to learn more about how founders, Akash and Rana Kapoor started Curry Up Now? Be sure to pick up a copy of my cookbook, “East Bay Cooks” (Figure 1) in which their restaurant is one of 41 spotlighted. Learn how to make two of their signature recipes, “Aloo Gobi Tacos” and “Pav Bhaji.”

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