Fast & Furious — And Super Garlicky

Fish cooked in plenty of garlic -- in the style of shrimp made famous by Hawaiian food trucks.
Fish cooked in plenty of garlic — in the style of shrimp made famous by Hawaiian food trucks.

Soaring airfares may make you think twice about traveling these days.

But transporting yourself to the tropical paradise of Hawaii and beyond is just a recipe away with “Kimi’s Kitchen” (Ten Speed Press), of which I received a review copy.

It’s a good bet that you’ve never encountered a cookbook by a national champion freediving and spearfisher. But that’s just what accomplished author Kimi Werner is, along with being a chef and environmental conservation advocate who lives on the North Shore of Oahu.

She wrote it with assistance from Jennifer Fiedler, an Oahu-based food writer; and Nicole Gormley, an award-winning filmaker, photographer and ocean advocate whose lavish photos in the book make you feel as if you could plunge right into the mesmerizing blue waters on the pages.

Werner grew up spearfishing with her father from a young age. More than sport, it was sustenance for the family that grew up in the early years with little. Throughout her life, the ocean has been a source of growth and inspiration. In her cookbook, she takes you along on her dives and inside her kitchen to learn how she prepares her favorite recipes. While many of the recipes focus on seafood, there are others that center around meat or are vegetarian instead.

Some of the recipes spotlight fish not always easily found outside of Hawaii. But ask your fishmonger for easy substitutes.

Feast on everything from “Marlin Cobb Salad,” “Venison and Mushroom Stroganoff,” and “Collard Greens with Shoyu and Butter” to “Popcorn-Style Fried Octopus” and “Beer-Battered Fish Sliders with Chunky Dill Pickle Sauce.”

As a fan of the food trucks in Hawaii, I was immediately drawn to her recipe for “Shrimp Truck-Style Garlic Fish.”

If you’ve ever stood in line steps from the beach for a heaping plate of garlicky, buttery, saucy shrimp, you know what I mean. It is a dish that irresistibly captures the breezy, laid-back vibe of the island.

It also features a lot of garlic. And I mean, a lot.

So, when I tell you that Werner’s recipe for “Shrimp Truck-Style Garlic Fish” calls for an entire head of garlic for two servings, don’t be afraid. Just start salivating, because it is just that good.

Yes, her recipe mimics the delicious flavor of that food-truck staple — but swaps out the shrimp for fish fillets instead. Her recipe calls for mahimahi, but she provides suggested alternatives such as striped marlin, cod, and halibut. I used rockfish fillets instead, which worked perfectly.

I used rockfish in place of mahimahi.
I used rockfish in place of mahimahi.

This recipe couldn’t be quicker or easier. Simply slice the fillets, then season with salt and paprika. Saute the fish in a pan with olive oil and butter. Remove the cooked fish to a plate, then return the pan to the stovetop, making sure to turn down the heat. Add in that pile of chopped garlic, and stir until golden. Add a squirt of fresh lemon juice, and spoon all of that lovely sauce over the fish. Finally, sprinkle over chopped fresh parsley. That’s it.

The fish is moist and flaky, with a hint of smokiness from the paprika. The sauce? It tastes like nutty browned butter mixed with equally nutty and buttery tasting garlic. Indeed, the garlic is not overpowering at all, but has mellowed nicely.

Serve it the shrimp-truck way — with plenty of steamed white rice to catch that incredible garlicky sauce down to the very last drop.

Simply delicious.
Simply delicious.

Shrimp Truck-Style Garlic Fish

(Serves 2)

1 pound boneless, skinless mahimahi, cut into 8 pieces

Flaky sea salt

1 1/2 tablespoons paprika

1/4 cup olive oil

3 tablespoons salted butter

Cloves from 1 head of garlic, finely chopped

Juice of 1/2 lemon

Chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnishing

Cooked white rice, for serving

Season the mahimahi with salt and paprika, turning the fish pieces to coat them evenly.

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, warm the olive oil and butter. When the butter is bubbling, place the fish in a single layer in the skillet, leaving room between the pieces and working in batches if necessary. Cook until the fish begins to brown, about 2 minutes, and then flip to repeat on the other side. Transfer the fish from the skillet to a plate or a cutting board. Turn down the heat to medium-low, add the garlic, and stir. Once the garlic begins to slightly brown, about 1 1/2 minutes, turn the heat off and add the lemon juice. Stir to combine, then spoon the sauce over the fish and garnish with parsley. Serve immediately over rice.

Fish alternatives: striped marlin, cod, halibut or rockfish

Adapted from “Kimi’s Kitchen” by Kimi Werner

More Hawaiian-Style Recipes to Enjoy: Lemongrass Adobo Grilled Chicken with Pineapple

And: Roasted Fish Collar by Chef Lee Anne Wong

And: Huli Huli Chicken by Chef Sheldon Simeon

And: Pineapple, Thyme, and Coconut Water Whip

And: Maui-Style Kalbi Short Ribs

And: Butter Mochi

And: Chocolate Butter Mochi

And: Coconut Macadamia Banana Bread

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