Category Archives: Restaurants

Clear Skies with A Chance of Great Chicken at the New Fog City

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Chef Bruce Hill cutting up a chicken cooked with his patented method at Fog City.

Chef Bruce Hill cutting up a chicken cooked with his patented method at Fog City.

 

Fog City Diner has a most storied past in San Francisco.

Long ago, the establishment nourished sailors before they shipped out to do battle in World War II. Then in 1985, Chef Cindy Pawlycn opened the doors there to what was then called Fog City Diner, serving up burgeoning California cuisine in the shiny Airstream-like restaurant.

A month ago, after an extensive remodel by owners Bill Higgins and Bill Upson, it reopened with veteran Chef Bruce Hill at the helm. It jettisoned the “diner” to become just Fog City.

The whimsical artwork on one wall.

The whimsical artwork on one wall.

With Hill’s vast experience as co-owner also of Bix, Picco, Pizzeria Pico and Zero Zero, it’s no surprise that the restaurant charged out of the gate with an impressive showing, as evidenced by the media dinner I was invited to there the week it opened. All around me, booths were crowded and seats at the bar filled with patrons enjoying specialty cocktails such as the gingery “Inside Job” (James E. Pepper Rye, Nocino, Orgeat, ginger shrub and lemon; $11).

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Westfield Valley Fair Debuts New Dining Terrace, One Market Expands Weekly Beast Menu & More

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Artist's rendering of the new Dining Terrace at Valley Fair Shopping Center. (Photo courtesy of Westfiled)

Artist’s rendering of the new Dining Terrace at Valley Fair Shopping Center. (Photo courtesy of Westfiled)

Westfield Valley Fair Unveils New Dining Terrace

If you’ve worked up a hunger after fighting the crowds at the new Uniqlo store at Santa Clara’s Westfield Valley Fair Shopping Center, head to the mall’s spiffy new Dining Terrace.

The revamped 23,000-square-foot space opens to the public officially November 1.

In addition to comfy lounge seating and an alfresco outdoor patio with fire pits, the Dining Terrace will feature 18 fast-casual eateries.

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No Surprise: The Steaks Are The Thing at Osso Steakhouse

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A whole Dungeness in garlic sauce at Osso Steakhouse.

A whole Dungeness in garlic sauce at Osso Steakhouse.

 

Osso Steakhouse opened earlier this summer in a most storied location: the site of the former Vanessi’s, the venerable San Francisco restaurant high atop Nob Hill that fed generations during a time when eating out was really an occasion.

Situated at the bottom of the stately high-rise condo building, the Grammercy Towers, the restaurant is very much a throwback. It’s done up in striking Art Deco black and green, with sleek silver sconces illuminating the room. Tuxedo-attired servers carry the food to the cozy booths from the exhibition kitchen.

Osso is the latest venture by Dante Serafini, and Jennifer and Jerry Dal Bozzo, the same team behind the Franciscan Crab Restaurant, The Stinking Rose, Calzone’s Pizza Cucina and the Old Clam House, all in San Francisco. Recently, I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant to sample the new menu.

The Art Deco-inspired dining room.

The Art Deco-inspired dining room.

We started with the octopus crostini ($15.95), which brought thinly shaved octopus slices piled high on crisp rounds of bread. The octopus was nicely tender, but the liberal amount of chili used totally obliterated it.

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An Elegant Taste of Sri Lankan Food in San Francisco

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The squab is not to be missed at 1601 Bar & Kitchen.

The squab is not to be missed at 1601 Bar & Kitchen.

1601 Bar & Kitchen resides in a transitional part of San Francisco.

It’s right near a major freeway on-ramp to Highway 101. And as you sit at a table by the window, you might spy a homeless person or two rifling through nearby dumpsters.

But none of that should dissuade you from trying Executive Chef-Owner Brian Fernando’s captivating take on Sri Lankan food.

Fernando is of Sri Lankan heritage, so he knows the warm, earthy, sometimes fiery flavors of this Indian Ocean island well. His French training shows through, too, as the presentations are beautiful, from what I evidenced on a recent visit when I was invited in a guest of the restaurant. Fernandez honed his skills in tapas bars in Spain, followed by a stint at Chez Panisse in Berkeley before going on to Le Papillon in San Jose.

The bright space with soaring ceilings is done up in shabby-chic with weathered bar stools and a large, striking mixed-media art piece of Abraham Lincoln hanging on one wall.

The dining room.

The dining room.

The restaurant offers up small plates to share, with lighter ones listed at the top of the menu and heavier ones at the bottom.

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Two Chefs and 12 Courses at Saison, San Francisco’s Most Expensive Restaurant

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Chef Josh Skenes' Sungold tomato stunner at Saison.

Chef Josh Skenes’ Sungold tomato stunner at Saison.

San Francisco’s Saison might just be the ultimate pop-up success story ever.

In 2009, it started humbly enough as a once-a-week pop-up in the rear part of the casual Stable Cafe in the Mission District. It featured the uncanny juxtaposition of Chef Josh Skenes’ high-concept food and Sommelier Mark Bright’s exceptional wines in proper Riedel stemware contrasted with jeans-clad servers attending to guests seated in slat-style garden-variety chairs at bare-bones wooden tables.

Fast forward to 2013, where it’s has not only been transported to a different part of town, but now holds the distinction of being the priciest restaurant in the city. Its tasting menu will set you back $248 per person. If you want wine pairings, that”ll be another $148 per person.

Perhaps you saw Bon Appetit magazine’s September edition, in which it named Saison as one of “America’s Best New Restaurants.” The insightful story broke out why the restaurant costs run so high: The custom build-out of the kitchen and dining room? $2.8 million. Food costs per week? $15,000. The four tanks that hold live seafood? Also $15,000. The meat aging room? $40,000. The wood-burning hearth? $50,000. That hand-made dinner plate you’re eating off of? $300. The Levi’s-designed cook’s uniforms? $500 each. And that cashmere throw provided if you get chilly? You guessed it — $500.

And the place seats only 32.

Sign

Skenes just before the start of service.

Skenes just before the start of service.

Chef Gabriel Kreuther of The Modern in New York City.

Chef Gabriel Kreuther of The Modern in New York City.

This week, Saison added even more luster — if that’s possible — by hosting five renowned chefs, each cooking alongside Skenes on a different night to create a 12-course tasting menu for a spendy $500 per person.

Tuesday, it was Chef Laurent Gras, formerly of L20 in Chicago and the Fifth Floor in San Francisco. Thursday, it was Chef Matthew Lightner of Atera in New York City. Tonight, it’ll be Chef Guenter Seeger, who owned Seeger’s in Atlanta. Saturday will wrap up with Chef John Shields, previously of Town House in Virgina.

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