Category Archives: Restaurants

My First Close Encounter with A Certain Vegetable

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Classic leeks in vinaigrette.

Classic leeks in vinaigrette.

 

When I was a senior in high school, my friends and I saved up our money to dine at Chez Panisse in Berkeley for the very first time.

We four thought ourselves so grown up and so in the know.

Of course, that feeling of confidence dissipated immediately when the first course arrived.

A platter was set before us, containing mystifying long, tubular things that looked for all the world like overgrown green onions. They had been simply grilled with good olive oil, and finished with salt and pepper. We glanced at one another, perplexed, wondering what they were and just how we were supposed to eat them.

Yes, that was my first encounter with leeks.

And I admit that I didn’t necessarily appreciate them then.

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We All Scream For Ice Cream Sandwiches, Tonga Room Fun & More

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Waterbar's take on the ice cream sandwich. (Photo courtesy of the restaurant.)

Waterbar’s take on the ice cream sandwich. (Photo courtesy of the restaurant.)

Restaurants Serving Up Ice Cream Sandwiches

With summer in high gear, pastry chefs are channeling their inner child to turn out kid-pleasing ice cream sandwiches.

Lucky for us, they don’t mind if the grown-ups indulge, either.

At Waterbar in San Francisco, fudge cookies sandwich sweet cream ice cream, then get rolled in crunchy, buttery bits of chocolate shortbread ($9).

At the Americano at the Hotel Vitale in San Francisco, they’re crafting the exotic candy cap mushroom ice cream sandwich ($8). If you’ve never had one, you’re missing out. The tiny mushrooms, foraged by Executive Chef Kory Stewart, impart a heavenly maple syrup flavor to the ice cream base. This is one mushroom made for desserts.

And at Prospect in San Francisco, fresh cherries make a star turn in ice cream stuffed inside two chocolate cookies, then all rolled in candied almonds (2 pieces for $4.50).

Prospect's cherry-chocolate ice cream sandwich. (Photo courtesy of the restaurant.)

Prospect’s cherry-chocolate ice cream sandwich. (Photo courtesy of the restaurant.)

 Tonga Room Celebrates the Fourth of July

How about a bona fide beach party — indoors — at the world-famous Tonga Room in the San Francisco Fairmont?

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Santa Clara Welcomes Justin’s — A Long, Long Time in the Making

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Glazed pork belly makes an appearance in a maki roll at Justin's in Santa Clara.

Glazed pork belly makes an appearance in a maki roll at Justin’s in Santa Clara.

 

You can tell Justin’s in Santa Clara is a labor of love.

Housed in the old Wilson’s Bakery site, the restaurant took nearly three years to come to fruition as Chef-Owner Justin Perez financed the endeavor, himself, with the help of investors and in-kind trades.

He hand-made the wood dining-room tables, as well as the steel sculptures that decorate the spacious restaurant. Pastry Chef Meg McGraw crafted the framed flower paintings that hang on the dining room walls.

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Former Chef of Ad Hoc Planning His Own Restaurant

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Chef Dave Cruz cooking a whole lamb at his pop-up event.

Chef Dave Cruz cooking a whole lamb at his pop-up event.

 

After leaving Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc in Yountville, where he was head chef for seven years, Dave Cruz has some big plans of his own.

Look for Cruz to open his own restaurant late this year or sometime next year. He’s been scouting locations in Napa to open Miles Restaurant, a casual spot serving brilliant but unpretentious food, the kind of grub chefs like to eat on their days off.

The name references his son’s middle name, he says. But it also speaks of the local “miles” from the restaurant that he will source his ingredients, as well as how diners are more than willing to travel miles and miles to the Napa Valley for a great meal.

If his recent pop-up lamb roast is any indication, his food is sure to continue to lure folks from all over.

Dinner is served.

Dinner is served.

A little over a week ago, I was invited to be a guest at his pop-up at The Trappist in Oakland. When I got there, Cruz was manning a large grill set up in the gastropub’s back courtyard. For $25 per person, you got a plate full of juicy, tender lamb that had been rubbed in aleppo, paprika and espelette, along with herb-mustard potato salad, and chili-lime corn on the cob.

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A Return Visit to All Spice in San Mateo

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The signature "Snowglobe'' dessert at All Spice.

The signature “Snowglobe” dessert at All Spice.

What happens to a restaurant after it receives a coveted Michelin star for the first time?

It gets busy, busy, busy.

Such is the case with the charming All Spice in San Mateo, which opened in 2010, and was awarded a Michelin star in 2012.

The award is proudly displayed in the foyer of the 1906 Victorian that houses the restaurant.

The first time I visited the restaurant a few months after it opened, there were a few empty seats here and there in the cozy dining rooms. Now, the place is packed, as evidenced by a recent visit last month, when I was invited in as a guest of the restaurant.

Chef Sachin Chopra, who cut his chops at Amber India in San Jose and Daniel in New York, conceived of All Spice as a tribute to modern Indian cuisine. In the past few years, he’s fine-tuned his vision even more. All Spice has never been about blow-out-your palate spiciness. It’s always been far more subtle. It’s more so now. The fine-dining approach is evident in the artistry of the presentations. The techniques evoke French classicism. The flavors are Californian with measured accents of Indian.

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