Dining at Michelin Two-Starred Enclos

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The dramatic presentation of venison tartare tartlets at Enclos.
The dramatic presentation of venison tartare tartlets at Enclos.

It’s uncommon for a restaurant to garner a Michelin star less than six months after opening.

It’s even more of a rarity to achieve two stars in that short span.

Yet Enclos in downtown Sonoma managed that impressive feat.

Brian Limoges, executive chef of the acclaimed restaurant that opened in December 2024, was caught so off guard that at first he didn’t think he had even been invited to the June ceremony in Sacramento. Turns out the emailed invitation had landed in his spam box.

Sitting in the audience of the awards ceremony, he then had a brief panic when he didn’t see Enclos listed among the new one-star recipients. But good things come to those who wait. And he and his staff were overjoyed to see they had won two stars right out of the gate.

Executive Chef Brian Limoges.
Executive Chef Brian Limoges.
The Michelin plaque.
The Michelin plaque.
The kitchen.
The kitchen.

Enclos, French for “enclosure,” is operated by Stone Edge Farm Estate Vineyards and Winery in Sonoma. In fact, you’ll find many ingredients on the restaurant’s tasting menu sourced from that verdant 16-acre farm just minutes away.

The winery is owned by Leslie McQuown and her husband Mac McQuown, a serial entrepreneur who also co-founded the Chalone Wine Group and Carmenet Winery. The couple decided to go all-in on the restaurant, and wow, has it paid off.

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David Nayfeld’s Miso Honey Mustard Baked Chicken

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A creamy Kewpie mayo-miso dressing does double duty, marinating the chicken and finishing a simple salad.
A creamy Kewpie mayo-miso dressing does double duty, marinating the chicken and finishing a simple salad.

We all know what it’s like to be face-to-face with a case of the hangries.

When you or someone with you is about to have a meltdown unless some delicious and satisfying food materializes pronto.

As the father of a 5-year-old daughter, David Nayfeld has been there more times than he can count.

Even for this chef-restaurateur of San Francisco’s Che Fico, Che Fico Pizzeria and Via Aurelia, as well as Menlo Park’s Bubbelah and Che Fico Parco, it can be a challenge when his daughter Helena asks pleadingly, “Dad, what’s for dinner?”

So, he’s taken all the tips and shortcuts he’s learned along the way and compiled it into his new cookbook, appropriately named, “Dad, What’s For Dinner?” (Alfred A. Knopf). It was written with Joshua David Stein, a Brooklyn author of cookbooks and children’s books.

The cookbook, of which I received a review copy, is a collection of more than 80 recipes designed to be family-pleasing, with nods to sneaking in a few more vegetables here and there, too.

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Get to Know Olio Piro, Producer of Tuscan Extra-Virgin Olive Oil

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An exceptional Tuscan extra-virgin olive oil that enhances most anything.
An exceptional Tuscan extra-virgin olive oil that enhances most anything.

You know if a legendary Michelin three-starred restaurant like Eleven Madison Park in New York is a fan, then it’s got to have it going on.

Olio Piro certainly does.

Brother and sister, Romain Piro and Marie-Charlotte Piro, launched the Miami-based extra virgin olive oil company in 2020, cold-pressing a blend of olives from 300-year-old trees in Southern Tuscany.

The olives are pressed within hours of harvest. But what makes their olive oil unique is that it is filtered three times — not the standard once or twice — to remove sediment and particles that may cause the oil to turn rancid over time. The company does so with a proprietary vertical pressure filter system originally developed for making wine.

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Sponsored Post: Barley Risotto with Pazazz Apples, Sage, and Leek Butter Sauce

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Caramelized Pazazz apple slices top this hearty, warming barley risotto with a velvety leek butter sauce.
Caramelized Pazazz apple slices top this hearty, warming barley risotto with a velvety leek butter sauce.

Celebrate autumn with a sublime dish that celebrates apple season to the max.

It’s a little sweet, a little savory.

It’s hearty and wholesome, loaded with fiber-rich barley and juicy, fresh Pazazz apples.

But also a bit naughty with a creamy, unctuous leek butter sauce made with a splash of hard apple cider that ties everything together beautifully.

What’s not to love?

“Barley Risotto with Pazazz Apples, Sage, and Leek Butter Sauce” is versatile enough to serve as a meatless first course or entree. Or alongside sausages, ham, roast duck, grilled chicken or Thanksgiving turkey or even leftover turkey the day after.

Crunchy, juicy Pazazz apples.
Crunchy, juicy Pazazz apples.

Good thing it’s prime season now through June for Pazazz apples, a late-season variety that’s related to the Honeycrisp. Grown by a small group of family farmers across North America, these shiny red-skinned apples with yellow-green striations are perfect for snacking out of hand or to feature in all manner of sweet or savory recipes.

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Korean Spicy Braised Tofu — In Minutes

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A quick and easy tofu banchan that explodes with punchy flavors.
A quick and easy tofu banchan that explodes with punchy flavors.

Like many people, I often have a love-hate relationship with ingredients new to me — and the recipes that require them.

The loathing comes, albeit halfheartedly, when I realize that getting my hands on them requires an extra trip to a specialty grocery store or a search online to find a source.

The adoration comes when I unexpectedly discover a product that not only delights, but opens up a whole new world of new possibilities to me.

That was the case with maesil cheong or Korean plum extract syrup.

Made by fermenting unripe green plums with sugar, it’s used in Korean marinades, sauces and drinks. It’s even thought to aid digestion and combat fatigue.

Korean plum extract syrup.
Korean plum extract syrup.

It’s slightly viscous, sweet, floral, and a little tart. It reminds me of Japanese ume plum, of which I already can’t get enough. I’m already thinking how fantastic a splash would be in a cocktail or iced tea or a glass of club soda.

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